OP
Darryle
Silver Member
I have a dealer that is going to order me a set, but I am really considering going to the farm wheels and R1 tires
GOODYEAR R14T Hybrid/Crossover tires
- Thread starter Darryle
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Texasmark
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- Ford: '88 3910 Series II, '80 3600, '65 3000; '07 6530C Branson with FEL, 2020 LS MT225S. Case-IH 395 and 895 with cab. All Diesels
Probably a second and lots of seconds are cosmetic. I'd look them over and jump on it in a heartbeat. Unusual tread, but the gaps in the lugs would surely help you in snow.
1stDeuce
Gold Member
Well, I did it... One pair of 16.9-24 R4's in 8 ply and one pair of 12-16.5 R14's in 4 ply are now on the way to me. All new blems, $1050 delivered. Like getting free shipping and a free set of front tires for the price of just a new pair of rear tires!!
I asked about putting the 12-16.5's on my current 10-16.5 wheels that are about 1.5" narrower than recommended and they said they'll go on pretty hard, but they'll be ok. The new tires are only 4 ply, but even with my 10's, I never run more than 25psi, so that should be fine.
I asked about putting the 12-16.5's on my current 10-16.5 wheels that are about 1.5" narrower than recommended and they said they'll go on pretty hard, but they'll be ok. The new tires are only 4 ply, but even with my 10's, I never run more than 25psi, so that should be fine.
1stDeuce
Gold Member
I saw that test. If you think about it, the tire with the lowest air pressure and most biting edges is the one that won. (That flotation combo tire)
I would bet that the test was run with all of the tires at their max pressure, and those flotation tires probably max out at 15psi, so they're soft enough to deform a bit, and bite in. The other two were likely closer to 25psi, and that's pretty hard IMO. Running more appropriate pressures, I would think the flotation tire would still do best on turf, followed closer by this R14, followed at a distance by the R4.
Rock hard tires suck for traction on softer than paved surfaces, period.
Texasmark
Elite Member
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- Ford: '88 3910 Series II, '80 3600, '65 3000; '07 6530C Branson with FEL, 2020 LS MT225S. Case-IH 395 and 895 with cab. All Diesels
There's a Youtube video of this gorgeous European gal running a tomato worm green tractor with radials. She has quite a bit of road travel to get to her fields and back. She has an onboard air pump built into the tractor....200 hp guessing give or take. She inflates the radials for the road trip and deflates once in the field...lot of sidewall bulging....fields were almost soggy but pulling multi bottom dual directional moldboards she had no problem with traction.
JD3520Turbo
Silver Member
Attached is a picture of the tire that started this whole style of tire. Its an Alliance 550 Multi Purpose Radial. They have had this tire out for 8 to 10 years. It is a radial with steel belts. (think puncture resistance), and it puts down a flatter footprint, when compared to a bias tire. Roading will be far superior to an R1, or R4 in bias or radial versions.
These are great for mowing and haying tractors because they don't tear up the grass on turns. Also very good at pushing snow. The only trade off I can see is deep mud traction, as they might have trouble cleaning out. They have a lot of biting edges, so they do well on slopes. This tractor is a county mowing tractor that is using a side arm mower that reaches out on one side. They prefer this tire because it is stable and holds well on uneven terrain.
For smaller compact tractors like a 3000 series John Deere
Galaxy makes a tire called a Garden Pro Radial Tire for those size tractors.
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These are great for mowing and haying tractors because they don't tear up the grass on turns. Also very good at pushing snow. The only trade off I can see is deep mud traction, as they might have trouble cleaning out. They have a lot of biting edges, so they do well on slopes. This tractor is a county mowing tractor that is using a side arm mower that reaches out on one side. They prefer this tire because it is stable and holds well on uneven terrain.
For smaller compact tractors like a 3000 series John Deere
Galaxy makes a tire called a Garden Pro Radial Tire for those size tractors.
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1stDeuce
Gold Member
Tires arrived and I got the fronts mounted yesterday. It was not as difficult as I thought it might be.
Everyone loves pictures, so I'll start with those...
They look huge compared to the 10.00's!!
Before:
After:
Round tread profile:
I have not yet put the larger rear tires on yet, but I probably will later today. These tires look really good, but I ran them up to the 35psi max that's on the sidewall for seating the bead and the bead didn't actually seat fully on either tire. I used tire lube, so this is interesting. I'm hoping that after being mounted for a week or so, they'll slowing work all the way on. I don't think this has anything to do with running them on a narrower wheel than is recommended, but it could be...
Speaking of narrower wheel, you can see that the tires have a slightly rounded tread profile. I think this is somewhat intentional, allowing the tire to roll down the road on the center lugs. It's not as effective on my tractor for two reasons: First, my tractor has a LOT of positive camber (Top of tire tipped out) which means the outside lugs also contact the road, though the inside lugs are lifted a bit at max pressure. Second, I never run max pressure. I have 20psi in them now, and with a bucket full of rock, there was only a little sidewall flex. I'll probably drop them to 17psi or so to get a better ride and better traction, which was the whole point of going with this tire in a larger size than stock.
I am guessing that I'll wear these down a bit faster than the rock hard industrial tires that came on the tractor, but that's just a guess. I base it on the smaller size of the lugs, which means less surface area to wear. It also means they should provide better traction... I would think that these are a very good combination of R1 vs. R4. They should work well for my needs, and I like the larger size!!
While it is not recommended to run larger dia tires on any 4wd tractor, I am not worried about the front lead being off because with the original size I had almost no front lead, causing a lot of scrubbing in turns doing loader work. Going with the larger front tires, and slightly larger rear tires, I end up with the same size tires this tractor would have come with if it had the R1 option. I calculated a ~9% increase in front tire size, and a ~3% increase in rear size, so I'm at ~7% lead. That's pretty close to the claimed "ideal" of 5%. Most of my 4wd use is loader work in tight quarters, with lots of steering. The additional lead will keep scrub down when turning, at the expense of a bit more scrub when going straight. That is a tradeoff I am fine with. I don't run 4wd when it's not needed.
Everyone loves pictures, so I'll start with those...
They look huge compared to the 10.00's!!
Before:
After:
Round tread profile:
I have not yet put the larger rear tires on yet, but I probably will later today. These tires look really good, but I ran them up to the 35psi max that's on the sidewall for seating the bead and the bead didn't actually seat fully on either tire. I used tire lube, so this is interesting. I'm hoping that after being mounted for a week or so, they'll slowing work all the way on. I don't think this has anything to do with running them on a narrower wheel than is recommended, but it could be...
Speaking of narrower wheel, you can see that the tires have a slightly rounded tread profile. I think this is somewhat intentional, allowing the tire to roll down the road on the center lugs. It's not as effective on my tractor for two reasons: First, my tractor has a LOT of positive camber (Top of tire tipped out) which means the outside lugs also contact the road, though the inside lugs are lifted a bit at max pressure. Second, I never run max pressure. I have 20psi in them now, and with a bucket full of rock, there was only a little sidewall flex. I'll probably drop them to 17psi or so to get a better ride and better traction, which was the whole point of going with this tire in a larger size than stock.
I am guessing that I'll wear these down a bit faster than the rock hard industrial tires that came on the tractor, but that's just a guess. I base it on the smaller size of the lugs, which means less surface area to wear. It also means they should provide better traction... I would think that these are a very good combination of R1 vs. R4. They should work well for my needs, and I like the larger size!!
While it is not recommended to run larger dia tires on any 4wd tractor, I am not worried about the front lead being off because with the original size I had almost no front lead, causing a lot of scrubbing in turns doing loader work. Going with the larger front tires, and slightly larger rear tires, I end up with the same size tires this tractor would have come with if it had the R1 option. I calculated a ~9% increase in front tire size, and a ~3% increase in rear size, so I'm at ~7% lead. That's pretty close to the claimed "ideal" of 5%. Most of my 4wd use is loader work in tight quarters, with lots of steering. The additional lead will keep scrub down when turning, at the expense of a bit more scrub when going straight. That is a tradeoff I am fine with. I don't run 4wd when it's not needed.
OP
Darryle
Silver Member
1stDuece, thanks for the update, waiting patiently for further "testing"
RickB
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I bet those beads do not seat. Plan on breaking them down and using more lube or looking at them the way they are.
1stDeuce
Gold Member
They are holding air just fine, so if they don't stretch a bit and fully seat eventually, it's not going to matter. I did try more lube on one. It didn't help. I'll try airing them up again next week.
