Good quality asphalt driveway crack filler

[Deere Dude]

Ah, something like this would be the applicator 'kettle'?

Kraft Tool Co. Pour Pot GG961 - The Home Depot

Control the crack damages of your concrete floors with the selection of this amazing and effectively priced Kraft Tool Co.

www.homedepot.com

Or this:

HOT TAR POUR POT

The Hot Tar Pour Pot is specifically designed to pour hot tar directly on the roof or surface. Features 4" wide pour spout and a D-style side handle.

www.jescraft.com

This one looks slick too. More expensive but would be a back saver.

Marshalltown 3 Gallon Crack Filling Pour Pot On Wheels RED704989 For Sale | Asphalt Sealcoating Direct

Asphalt Crack Filling is easy with the Marshalltown wheeled 3-gallon applicator pour pot. If you perform asphalt crack filling services for parking lots or possibly just for your own driveway needs, this Pour-Pot on wheels is a must. This "Wheeled Pour Pot" will save you time and "backache"...

www.asphaltsealcoatingdirect.com

Still not certain what to use for heating on the propane burner. Anyone have ideas on a heavy metal pot?

Rob

If only a couple small cracks need to be filled just throw a couple chunks in a pour pot and heat with a weed burned until melted

That first picture is the pour-pot for dispensing rubber that I use. For bigger jobs, my turkey fryer is just an outdoor heater like this.

Backyard Pro 21" Tall Outdoor Gas Range / Patio Stove - 55,000 BTU

This 21" tall Backyard Pro patio stove / range brings your stockpot full of steamed vegetables or deep fried turkey to a comfortable working height for delicious results every time! Its powerful 55,000 BTU burner quickly and evenly heats the contents of your pot or pan and is equally at home...

www.webstaurantstore.com

You don't need anything fancy for a cooker. I used the steel 18-24 quart steel pan insert from a junk turkey roaster like this.

Nesco Silver Stainless Steel 18 qt Electric Roaster 17.5 in. H X 9.2 in. W X 25.4 in. L - Ace Hardware

www.acehardware.com

Just a leakproof pan about 6-7 inches high with a good edge so the pan of hot rubber can be carried from the outdoor heater to dump into the applicator(Your first picture.)

Heavy welding gloves need to be used for that and HF googles are a must. It cooks at 450 degrees.
I had some scrap sheet metal for a shield around the outdoor heater to conserve lp GAS.

Two people minimum for operation, three would be ideal.

I carried my setup to the job using a 2x4' platform in the 3 pt hitch in my garden tractor. That keeps it mobile and at a nice working height.

My weed burner is 60-80k BTU and used for keeping the end of the applicator so rubber flows freely through valve.

A tip: If big cracks occur fill with silica sand or else another very fine free flowing sand. Then blow out the top 1/2-3/4" with weed burner so rubber isn't wasted.

Another tip I found: 50# blocks come in 2 individual wrapped 25# squares. Freeze the individual 25# squares in a chest type freezer if it is warm outside and freeze to zero degrees. Then use a log splitter to make chunks to 3-4" square or you won't cut them down. This makes it easier to melt and simmer until needed.

Good luck and keep is simple.

If spelling and lingo sucked it may be because I am on opioids since my knee replacement Wednesday am]nd am not really with the program.

 

[BigBlue1]

Thanks for all the tips Deere Dude! Good info. I should have everything I need by next week and can get these minor cracks filled to keep the driveway healthy. And then I'll have it all on hand for future issues as they arise.

Spring here in MN is such a killer on driveways with the freeze/thaw daily cycles that can go on for many weeks some years. Warms up, melts some snow, cools at night and the water freezes, repeat next day.

Rob

 

[BigBlue1]

Just to follow this up, the suggestions here were helpful. I got the hot apply material from Lowes, a high-output outdoor burner (think turkey fryer or fish boil), and a hot tar applicator 'bucket'. Had a few family members help out and things went pretty well. I think the only thing I'd change is to remove the 'small' nozzle on the applicator because it didn't flow very fast and the material in the applicator cooled down fast. And maybe I needed to get the mixture to a higher temp. I didn't use a thermometer, I just heated until it was melted and runny.

This mix seems really good and made a coating over the crack just like you see on the roads. I now have the equipment and material to take care of the driveway into the future.

Rob

 

[cdaigle430]

In my experience do not use rubber. On a hot day if you happen to park so your tire is on hot rubberized crack it will mold into your tire tread. When you take off the next time it will pull up with the tire and not only damage the asphalt more it will also damage your inside wheel well.

I tried to get the contractor who applied it to pay for the damage to my car and my drive way but I never ended up taking it to small claims court. Now I just take it as a lesson learned.

 

[BigBlue1]

Input provided too late. And likely irrelevant in my situation since I don't park in the part of my driveway that is asphalt. My issue has been addressed successfully.

 

[Deere Dude]

Just to follow this up, the suggestions here were helpful. I got the hot apply material from Lowes, a high-output outdoor burner (think turkey fryer or fish boil), and a hot tar applicator 'bucket'. Had a few family members help out and things went pretty well. I think the only thing I'd change is to remove the 'small' nozzle on the applicator because it didn't flow very fast and the material in the applicator cooled down fast. And maybe I needed to get the mixture to a higher temp. I didn't use a thermometer, I just heated until it was melted and runny.

This mix seems really good and made a coating over the crack just like you see on the roads. I now have the equipment and material to take care of the driveway into the future.

Rob

Sounds like it worked quite well. To keep the rubber flowing you need to hit it with the weed burner every minute or so depending on the ambient temperature. But heat it to much it gets way to thin, like water.

When done in the warmer months I tried to stay off the rubber for a few days so heavy loads don't indent in as much, and I don't park on the rubber for a few months but I found just driving over it normally, it held up as well as a contractor would do..

 

[BigBlue1]

Yep, that's what we did... hit the nozzle of the applicator with the weed burner to thin things back out.

I'm wondering if I could rig up some heat tape or something at the bottom of the applicator to keep it hot? Ultimately though, I think just using the larger nozzle will be fine.

Rob

 

[dodge man]

I have figured out when it gets cold those cracks are going to open up no matter what. I assume the hot rubberized stuff is just flexible enough it doesn’t split?

 

[Deere Dude]

I have figured out when it gets cold those cracks are going to open up no matter what. I assume the hot rubberized stuff is just flexible enough it doesn’t split?

I have found that if applied when the asphalt cracks are cold the cracks are at their greatest. When filled with rubber, the crack may compress when warm sealing even farther. That rubber sticks really well to the walls in the cracks.

 

[BigBlue1]

^^^

This is why I did it in early March. Obviously not as cold as it can get here but better in the 40's than in the 70's.