lostcreekranch
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2012
- Messages
- 7,948
- Location
- Austin County, Texas
- Tractor
- NH TL-100A with Bush Hog 5045 FEL, WR Long 3rd function, LS XR4155HC w/FEL, WR Long 3rd Function.
Last time I tackled a job like that, Rick, the heads in the screws either stripped out or twisted off. They were all rusted solid into the steel rails on the trailer. Ended up having to cut the boards loose with a demo saw, then working the saw blade under what was left of the boards to cut the screws. Ground what was left off with an angle grinder, then had to drill all new holes for the new boards. If I had it to do over again, I'd use anti-seize on the screws. Hope it goes a little smoother for you!
After the try with my Rigid impact driver, I'm expecting the same RNG. I'm still looking into a more powerful impact driver as it would be handy for many jobs not requiring a pneumatic impact.
I'm expecting a few will break off and I'll just grind them flat on the frame. I'll use Torx head self tapping screws and anti-seize on the new boards.
You asked in a previous post if board that broke was missed in prior replacement? This trailer was bought in 2008, when we bought our original John Deere Z-820A zero turn, so the present decking is original and all pressure treated. I removed the one board, I fell through, and the bottom side looks perfect .. except the area that went bad. That part is black, on the surface, and the wood just falls apart.