Glow Plugs not working.
- Thread starter Jg1
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Thanks for the info, sounds like a much better place to start than looking for the FL in the wiring harness. I didn't know the ignition switch could handle that kind of amprage. I have to wait until later in the week and I'll get back to you.
I did take a #12 gauge machine tool wire from the battery to the glow plugs and waited for a 25 second count. Turned the ignition switch and it started right up like it use to. Machine wire can handle more amps than a regular wire because it has more stands of wire in it. Like a welding cable, lot of amps and more flexible.
I did take a #12 gauge machine tool wire from the battery to the glow plugs and waited for a 25 second count. Turned the ignition switch and it started right up like it use to. Machine wire can handle more amps than a regular wire because it has more stands of wire in it. Like a welding cable, lot of amps and more flexible.
greggyy
Gold Member
Or it could be like mine....where the wiring from switch to glow is completely fried....
First of all I would like to say thanks for all your help. I won't be able to work on the tractor until the weekend (I hope).
I'm baffled on how this heating circuit works without a timer or relay to cut the circuit off once the motor has started.
When it worked you'd first turn the key to the on position and the glow light comes on and the glow plugs start to heat. Then I would wait 30 to 60 seconds and then turn the switch further to start the motor. Once the motor starts, the switch returns to the on position. I would think something has to change once the motor starts otherwise when the switch returns to the on position, the glow light and plugs would start all over again. That's why I think there should be a relay to shut the circuit off but I don't see anything on the schematic to stop the heating circuit. I've never left the glow plugs on long enough to see if it would time out.
I'm not an electrician but for the most part I think I know how things need to work.
I'll start at the switch, make sure I have power, then make sure the switch transfers power to where it should and try to work my way back to the plugs.
Like I said, I'm confused because something needs to shut the heating circuit off. If someone knows how this works, please let me know.
Thanks
I'm baffled on how this heating circuit works without a timer or relay to cut the circuit off once the motor has started.
When it worked you'd first turn the key to the on position and the glow light comes on and the glow plugs start to heat. Then I would wait 30 to 60 seconds and then turn the switch further to start the motor. Once the motor starts, the switch returns to the on position. I would think something has to change once the motor starts otherwise when the switch returns to the on position, the glow light and plugs would start all over again. That's why I think there should be a relay to shut the circuit off but I don't see anything on the schematic to stop the heating circuit. I've never left the glow plugs on long enough to see if it would time out.
I'm not an electrician but for the most part I think I know how things need to work.
I'll start at the switch, make sure I have power, then make sure the switch transfers power to where it should and try to work my way back to the plugs.
Like I said, I'm confused because something needs to shut the heating circuit off. If someone knows how this works, please let me know.
Thanks
LouNY
Super Star Member
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- Greenwich, NY
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- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
I have seen key switches where you had to go just past the run but not to the crank position for the glow plugs as well as those that you turn back one from off for the glow plugs.
Looking at the electrical diagram it would seem that that would be one of the ones that used a click counter clockwise from off for heat.
Looking at the electrical diagram it would seem that that would be one of the ones that used a click counter clockwise from off for heat.
Worked on my tractor today and found out I have a bad ignition switch. When I turned the switch on I had no voltage on G1 or G2.
I also took an ohm reading between G1 and the glow plugs, I had continuity so I knew the wire from the switch to the plugs was good.
Now to find a switch. Just started to look on line and two of the places say it's no longer available. I'll try my luck with an auto parts store. I guess I'm not as smart as I thought I was, I thought for sure there had to be a relay in there.
Thanks for the help.
I also took an ohm reading between G1 and the glow plugs, I had continuity so I knew the wire from the switch to the plugs was good.
Now to find a switch. Just started to look on line and two of the places say it's no longer available. I'll try my luck with an auto parts store. I guess I'm not as smart as I thought I was, I thought for sure there had to be a relay in there.
Thanks for the help.
LouNY
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2015
- Messages
- 12,296
- Location
- Greenwich, NY
- Tractor
- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
Looking at the electrical drawing I would not expect power on G1 or G2 in the run position, if that schematic is correct. Will that switch turn backwards one notch or push in in off or run?
I guess reading what I had written it would sound like I turned it to the run side of the switch. I did not, I turned it counterclockwise to the glow plug side. That's when I check for voltage and I did not have anything on G1 or G2 to ground.
LouNY
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2015
- Messages
- 12,296
- Location
- Greenwich, NY
- Tractor
- Branson 8050, IH 574, Oliver 1550 Diesel Utility (traded in on Branson) NH 8160. Kioti CK2620SECH
OK, now it makes sense that you are looking for a new switch. If a new switch is not available, a high current push on switch should work.
Good Luck
Good Luck
