Gland nut removal

[ZackN]

Hello all,

I bought a log splitter for $350 thinking it needed a new pump, but after some diagnosing it looks like the cylinder is internally bypassing and only builds 650spi.
I am having trouble getting the gland nut off, it has two threaded holes that hold a cap/cover on, and it looks like it has an internal wire retainer. This is not the type of retainer that gets rotated in from the outside of the cylinder body, but rather would be removed if possible by pushing the gland nut in and then removing the retainer wire. I cant tell if there are threads below the wire retainer of if the gland nut slides in and out of the body.
I have tried using a dead blow hammer and piece of PVC to not mar up the face of the gland nut, and I have tried a spanner wrench threaded in to the holes. No luck either way.
I would appreciate you input and help! Thanks!

 

[ptsg]

Welcome to TBN.

It does look like the gland has indeed to go in a bit so you can then remove the retainer. But from the looks of it, it also looks it will give a hard fight.

I would say, get a bigger hammer, smack it harder.

 

[TractorGuy]

See if that face behind the cap will tap in. Looks like there is a retaining ring inside the lip.

 

[Leejohn]

My guess is to screw it in past the ring. Remove ring then unscrew gland. I see threads on the I.D. of the cyl.

 

[ptsg]

My guess is to screw it in past the ring. Remove ring then unscrew gland. I see threads on the I.D. of the cyl.

All I can see, is a taper for the seals to slide in with some rough machining marks. No threads.

 

[Sonny580]

Some that I have rebuilt, have an internal snap ring in a machined groove and they are a bear to get out. ----you may have that in this one,---I cant really tell from pix. ---Look close an see if you can move anything down to make access easier. ---use thin screwdriver or whatever you can find, and start working the ring out----may take a while of poking around to find the ends of the ring, but when you do start at that point slowly working the ring out, while holding your breath! -- They are a challenge to say the least!

 

[hosspuller]

Logically, the gland has to be pushed into the cylinder. The two bolts & cap keep it from moving into the cylinder when the rod retracts. You've removed the bolts & cap so push it into the cylinder to remove the ring. Then you can push/pull the gland out of the cylinder. (you might have to fill the retaining ring groove or the seals will catch on it)

 

[WranglerX]

This pic tells me there is "circlip" keeping gland nut from unscrewing, might try screwing in gland nut to relieve pressure circlip and then remove circlip.... And then of course I may be wrong....

Dale

 

[RickB]

The remaining gland is not threaded. Spray liberally with the penetrant of your choice. Find a piece of pipe large enough to fit around the rod and use it to drive the gland down into the barrel. Take a punch 180 degrees away from the end gap in the snap ring and drive the ring down out of its groove. Grab the ends of the snap ring and retrieve it. Clamp the base end of the barrel in a vise or pin it to the splitter and pull the rod, gland and piston out of the barrel. You probably will have to give the gland several brisk blows with the rod and piston to get everything all the way out.

 

[Leejohn]

All I can see, is a taper for the seals to slide in with some rough machining marks. No threads.

Look at the pic that you can see between the ring, kind of looks like there is threads there also. When I make picture bigger it is so far out of focus I can't tell then.

 

[ZackN]

All,
Thanks for the reassurance to give it a good hit. That was all it needed. First I tried a piece of PVC drainage that fit pretty good but it just started buckling. We all know that I need something stronger than PVC, and probably a bigger hammer too.
Then I dropped an old bearing race on it and used a high grade bolt to up above the end of the piston.
It took about 5-8 medium blows with a 3lb hammer to drop it down about 1/4inch.
Retaining ring came out easy with a small flat blade screwdriver and an automotive pick.
Because I have no idea what make this cylinder is I don't have a rebuild kit, so no plastic piece to slip in the groove to aid in the removal and eventual installation of the gland and piston.
To hopefully help with this I filled the groove with silicone, its drying at the moment, Ill probably try pulling it apart tomorrow afternoon if it stops raining.
Thanks again for all the help!

 

[ZackN]

Put the retaining pin back in the body, pulled the piston, ram and gland nut out by hand. Took a little tapping on the gland to get it out but it came out easy.
Piston nut was pinned on.
The piston was able to rotate freely, Im assuming that it is designed that way, I may put a slightly thicker oring on the piston to rod surface, the current one sits slightly below the surface of the piston.
Large crack in the piston to body seal, thus the reason for needing a rebuild. The rest of the seals look to be in OK condition, but they are all going to get replaced. Hopefully my local hydraulic shop is still open with all that is going on right now (COVID-19)
Thanks all for the help, this went much smoother than I had predicted!

 

[ZackN]

The new seals were a bit difficult to get in to the body, but with liberal amounts of hydraulic oil and some careful persuasion, they went in!
I tested it out yesterday and its splitting really well.
Thanks all for all the help, I really appreciate it!
Zack

 

[RickB]

Excellent!