Getting started?

mantis166 · Jun 22, 2005

It arrived today. Thanks to advice on this site, I made my decision and received delivery of my new Jinma 284 today. I feel I got a great price from my local dealer that I heard about on this site, but he does nothing but assemble tractors and top off fluids (paid $7400 for tractor and loader installed). Seems well worth taking on the initial fluid relacement.
Now my questions. Dealer recommended changing all fluids after first 20 hours or so. Do you guys recommend changing out Chinese fluids right away instead? Also, I read the previous post conserning recommended fluids, but can you tell me where to find location of drain and fill holes for all of these areas? Manuals don't really show these things though they may be obvious to more mechanically inclined. Thanks again for help. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

F100Panel · Jun 22, 2005

My take on changing out the Chinese Fluids- I "Play" with the tractor for the 1st 10 hours. Run it around in ALL the gears, 2 & 4 wheel drive to run in the gears ect & get all the junk suspended in the greases. I'll even let it set at fast idle for an hour or so & make sure I run the PTO in BOTH speeds as much as I can with no load on the PTO...The day I actually do the oil changes I'll run her around a lot to get the fluids warm enough to drain easily & be sure the casting filings & other junk in the cases is suspened in the oils so it comes out with the oil. Some even recommend flushing with diesel.. Personaly I don't have ANY theory on that 1 way or another other than to wonder how one can be sure they get all the diesel out before refilling....

If I intended to actually work the tractor I'd run it around some/as much as I could & change out the chinese fluids before I did any work with the tractor.

JINMA224XR · Jun 22, 2005

Do you guys recommend changing out Chinese fluids right away instead? Also, I read the previous post conserning recommended fluids, but can you tell me where to find location of drain and fill holes for all of these areas? 

Hey Mantis,

If the Dealer changed all the fluids then I would wait, but if he didn't , then I would change out whatever fluids that he didn't. Be sure to check all levels yourself, especially in the creeper gear box, if you have that. But knowing what I know now, I would probably flush out the transmission with either diesel fuel or kerosene fromthe get getgo.

Drains on my 224 are: 3 on the front drive-- 1 on each side at the bottom of steering and 1 in the middle. 1 on creeper just below, 1 on the transfer at side, 2 on the transmission at the rear axle on each side of center, hydralic is at the rear-- I think there is a picture of that location on JohnS site. I had to take off the pto cover shield toget to that drain plug.

Many past posts have been given on this and fluid recommendations, so it is easyto just scroll to previous posts to get that information.

I used my old diesel fuel to treat the boards on my trailer.

Get your tractors running &
Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

greg_g · Jun 22, 2005

Pretty sure 254 drains were in reasonable proximity to yours, so here goes:

hydraulics (1) rear vertical face, above PTO spline
engine (1) oil pan vertical face, right side (as viewed from operator seat)
front diff (3) center gear box vertical face front, left drive housing bottom, right drive housing bottom
rear diff (2) rear underside horizontal face
tranny (1) on left vertical face of transfer case
creeper/shuttle (1) bottom size, horizontal face above drive shaft housing
cooling system (2) radiator drain, block drain
injection pump (2) see HERE

And never wait to drain/flush/fill. Get that Asian muck out of there yesterday. After flushing, change oil and fuel filters. With luck, hydraulic screen/filter may only need cleaning. For that, see HERE. Repeat at 50 hours, flushing optional.

//greg//

JohnS · Jun 22, 2005

I agree with this, but check your current fluid condition and level. (engine oil, injector pump oil, hyd fluid, transmission fluid, front axle lube) If they do not look like clean 30 weight oil, then drain and replace. Don't wait 10-20hours, unless clean. Some get water contamination, and others have just found what looks to be dirty, used oil. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif I didn't flush with diesel or kerosene, but wouldn't have concerns with (transmission, front axle). Just make sure you drain it the best you can. The hyd is hard to drain completly, and you always have some mixing of old and new. Would recommend doing it to the tank and filter, only ie don't pump the diesel/kero through system. Do next exchange at 50 hours.

Fuel Tank: Drain any from system before adding new. The chinese black diesel, should not be run, IMHO. Many people have had inline filters pluged, by this gunk.

Coolant: If dealer didn't, drain and flush both radiator and engine. Engine best done, with thermostat pulled. It is typical to have considerable sand/scale/etc direct from the factory (or at least it use to be). Refill with distilled water and anti-freeze mix. I use pre-charged anti-freeze specific for diesels. It was only a dollar more a gallon at TSC.

Enjoy that new tractor!

mantis166 · Jun 22, 2005

Thank you for the advice and I do plan to change fluids this Sunday before putting any hours on my new tractor. I live about 15 miles out of the nearest town and will have time to get started this Sunday. Can someone tell me what I will need so I don't have to keep running into town especially since everything but Walmart will be closed Sunday. specifically, how much of each fluid will I likely need and what filters will I need? I know it can only be an estimate and I will use any extras over time, I just want to make sure I have enough. And thanks again for the help.

bruce1966us · Jun 22, 2005

6 quarts hydraulic fuid
6 quarts engine 14W40 oil
4 gallons AW 32 fluid for the rear

greg_g · Jun 22, 2005

( specifically, how much of each fluid will I likely need and what filters will I need? )

Capacities should be in the front of the tractor user's manual, the last section of the specifications sheet. What you use is a personal choice, but my preferences are listed HERE. If you choose to use that list, simply refer to the spec sheet in the manual for quantity. Convert liters to quarts/gallons, and go shopping.

Five gallon pails are most cost effective, as it's always better to have too much - rather than too little. They're also real heavy to pour from, so transfer contents to smaller jugs - from which you can then pour into the tractor.

//greg//

RonMar · Jun 23, 2005

Mantis166
I cut this from the northern hydraulics tractor site www.NORTHERNTRACTOR.COM. It is for their 25HP JM254 model(basically the same engine block and drivetrain as the 284).

Engine Model: TY385
Engine Type: Three cylinder, vertical, water-cooled, 4-stroke
Fuel Tank: 5.81 Gallons
Engine Oil: 1.59 Gallons/6.36 Quarts
Front Drive Axle: 1.19 Gallons/4.76 Quarts
Transmission: 3.7 Gallons/14.8 Quarts
Hydraulics/Category 1 Hitch: 2.38 Gallons/9.52 Quarts
Radiator: 2.64 Gallons

Of course if you drain/flush the loader hydraulics you will need whatever the volume in that part of the system is.

I am not far behind you in planning this same fluid change operation. My wife and I took a little road trip down to Hoquiam last Saturday to look over Rays loader. I liked the package so much I placed an order with Ray right there. Hopefully I will have my 284/FEL sometime next week.

Good Luck.

mantis166 · Jun 25, 2005

I am going to 'take on' changing my fluids tomorrow. Not very mechanical when it comes to figuring things out, but I will remember how to do it after the first time. One more bit of help. How do I check for proper levels when refilling? Crankcase is obvious, but is there a dipstick for other components? I would assume there is on the tranny, but how do I know if I have right amount on front and rear diff? Also, someone mentioned that hydraulic fluid will vary from manual if I have a front loader which I do. I assume large bolt above PTO spine with red paint is where I fill with AW32 hydraulic fluid. There is a small threaded piece with a hook on it in center of this bolt, but no dipstick attatched. Do I fill to top of this threaded hole? I really do appreciate you all teaching us rookies, but like others, I live out in sticks and cannot transport my tractor to have regular maintenence done. Besides, at 50 years old it is time this 'city boy' learned some of these 'simple' mechanical basics. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif