Getting New Tires & Rims, Need Some Tips

/ Getting New Tires & Rims, Need Some Tips #1  

savaytse66

Bronze Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
72
Location
Pennsylvania
Tractor
2010 BX25
Since I am going to be putting on a rear rotary cutter soon and doing more field work with my BX25, I am going to pick up a set of R1 tires and rims to compliment my R3 turfs. I'm not a tire guy, even on my road vehicles, I rely on my local tire dealer to recommend tires. Since I've never put a new set of wheels on a tractor and have always had turfs, I am looking for some advice on a few things:


  1. Where do you buy your tires and rims? My local dealer has them, but I am still waiting on a price. Nothing tends to be cheap at the dealer, so other B&M stores or online would be just fine.
  2. It is difficult to fill the tires with ballast? Am I better off just letting the dealer do it?
  3. Since R1s are narrower than R3s and R4s, Is there a spacer of some sort that would allow me to keep the wheels as far apart from one another and the frame as possible? I'd want to minimize my center of gravity height, even if it's only a little bit.
  4. With R1s (or any tractor tires), how many plys should I be looking for? I see them online anywhere from 4 - 10.
  5. What brands are better than others?

Thanks!
 
/ Getting New Tires & Rims, Need Some Tips #2  
Get a salesman to order you a set (wheels & tires ) through Wholegoods.They will already be mounted and will be $500.00 or less.:dance1:
 
/ Getting New Tires & Rims, Need Some Tips #3  
if 4x4 or MFWD or like, you will need both front and rear tires sized correctly for correct ratio (meaning most likely 4 new tires and 4 new rims). agriculture tire dealers should be able to look up the info. and then recommend tire specific sizes to you.

search google for say "ag1 tires" and get on some tire manufacture sites, and then do a dealer look up. you should hit a few tire manufacture websites / dealer look up. some tire manufactures tires cost 2 to 3 times of off brand tires cost.

some rims you can swap left and right tires, to either get a wider stance or smaller stance. (it is all in the rims) the center is offset were the bolts go.
there are tire spacers out there, not a clue for your tractor of if you would really need them? the spacers may be OEM (original equipment manufacture) or 3rd party, or custom made.
i forget the term for the rims, some rims ya loosen an extra set of nuts/bolts and spin the wheels some, and it widens or shortens the stance of the wheels.

i am going to push for a higher ply rating. min 8 ply or higher. ply rating = thicker rubber and/or harder rubber. hopefully stops a few extra thorns going through your tires.
i am a fan of tubes in tires, regardless if tubeless tire or not. it gives a little bit more rubber a thorn has to go through before a leak happens.

due to tractor tires more so the larger rear tires, end up weighting a few hundred plus pounds when filled with a fluid (heck without fluid they are already heavy), i personally prefer to have stuff at the shop/garage/shed were i can empty the fluid out of the tires, along with filling the tires backup. why? if i am to busy / hurting to badly to deal with leaking tire, i can drain tire of fluid, and nearly man handle the tire into truck and take it some place to get it fixed. cherry picker / engine crane, i would be pushing past limits to try and hoist it up, so i could back truck up under tire. let alone being able to move tire if it was filled with fluid in back of the pickup truck.

does it cost more initially to get stuff to fill / unfill tires with fluid yes!, long term though, i would say no.
personally prefer using a 30 gallon spot sprayer i have. a few plumbing connections a couple valves, some hose, and BAM got me a nice little filler / un filler for tires.

====================
personally prefer FEL (front end loader) on tractor with general duty bucket on it. and keep it held off the ground 3 to 6 inches. i am more likely to hit a tree limb, baby cow, baby dear, etc.. and get them to move, vs running over them. the FEL also acts as a good counter weight for 3pt rotatory cutter.

if you don't have a FEL, then fruit weight is highly suggested if not required.

rotatory cutters, act like huge dog tails behind the tractor. (swaying / swinging) back and forth. and could cause damage to your 3pt hitch, if you don't have sway chains / sway bars and/or check chains/check bars in place and set correctly on the lower lift arms.

avoid driving across a hill, it is preferred to always drive up and down hills. to reduce chance of rolling the tractor over. again if you have FEL try to keep the bucket low to the ground, to also reduce chance of roll over.

make sure the PTO shaft is correct length, it is normal to need to buy a longer shaft on purpose, and then cut it down to correct length. if PTO shaft long, PTO shaft binds up doing damage to something, if PTO shaft to short, if you go into a dip, the PTO shaft falls apart.

make sure you set your "slip clutch" correctly on the rotatory cutter. it protects the tractor if you hit something (stump, rock, large tree limb, end up sinking blades into the ground).
 

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