GeoTextile Fabric: other brands? any driveway advice?

[Flatheadyoungin]

i understand why you should put a crown on a road but should you put a crown even in sections where the road has a taper towards the drainage ditch?

 

[Wesdor]

One thing that has helped me in plowing snow.

I use a back blade and turn it around. That way it isn't cutting into the ground as aggressively. It does leave a bit of snow on the drive, but a day of sunshine usually melts the little that is left.

Hope that works for you.

 

[Ken45101]

i understand why you should put a crown on a road but should you put a crown even in sections where the road has a taper towards the drainage ditch?

I agree with you, a crown wouldn't be needed if the drive is tilted toward a ditch. However, over time, you may get some light ruts from traffic which would hold water unless you keep it graded.

Ken

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

that's how i've always done it when i had my 8n.......that's how grandpa always did it......matter of fact, that's the only way i know how to!

One thing that has helped me in plowing snow.

I use a back blade and turn it around. That way it isn't cutting into the ground as aggressively. It does leave a bit of snow on the drive, but a day of sunshine usually melts the little that is left.

Hope that works for you.

 

[ray66v]

Ditto on the #304 stone.

Don't put down larger rock first, that is unnecessary. It seems like a really good idea, but it creates voids that hold water, and causes more settling.

If you read the threads, you know the process. Put down 2 inches or so, at a time, wet it, and compact it. Driving on it will work to compact it, if you need. I recommend you cap it, after compacting, with a thin layer of #57 (5/8 to 3/4 stone).

Even if you don't wet it, and compact it, it will still settle on it's own, eventually.

 

[brin]

I've been in contact with a US 200 geotextile fabric distributer. Their rolls are 432' long, 12.5' wide and $360 per roll+ tax.

Are there other brands I should consider? Is there a better quality product out there? I really don't want to cheap out on this. I have to live with it for the rest of my life and have 1200'+ to put in, so I want it right the first time.

I've calculated that I need about 300 ton of crusher run. Does this sound right at about 12.5' wide, 1000' long (give or take, probably closer to 1200' when I put some around the barn and make a turn around), 4" deep......

Any other advice? I've read most of the driveway threads on here but just want to make sure I don't over-look anything; drainage, culverts, crown, long sweeping curves, keep grade angle down, still keep the wooded drive looking nice, etc.....

I've spent some time on the dozer and it's coming together. If I can keep my pace and the weather holds out, I may be ready for aggregate in about 2 months.

Thanks!

What makes you think you will need to use fabric at all ? I have put in several roads over the past 35 yrs. or so and only used fabric on one that bordered a wet land area and it has worked out fine. Another road was 1,200 ft. long with a graded red clay base and I put in crusher run 4" deep and added to it about every 5 yrs. or so but it packed like concrete. I grade it once a year with a box blade. Unless you have a really wet situation I for one do not see why you need the fabric especially if you put a crown on the road and keep in mind since you are going through the woods and your road will be tree lined , any roots you are digging up putting in the new road will likely cause the trees nearest the road to die in time so you may want to use caution how deeply you set your bucket or blade as you grade..

 

[lhfarm]

thanks for the pics.....what direction does the driway point? does much sun hit it?

Basically, NS from the county road to the first turn (steepest grade too), then EW to the second curve then back to the NNW. The first picture is of the latter section (house at top of drive). The second and third pictures are of the EW run. Fourth picture is at the second curve where it goes from EW to NNW. Five is near the first curve (Jeep is at the bottom by the county road). Sixth (second row) is at the top of the first secion (N
S) and the last is just past the first curve. The pictures were taken over a few hours. I don't remember for sure, but would guess the first where taken in the 10-noon time frame and the latter more around 2-3. Don't remember exactly, but I left the tractor at the bottom when I finished plowing and drove the Jeep to the top. Then walked down later in the afternoon to get the tractor. That is why the shadows have moved so much.

But you can see there is plenty of sun hitting all three sections.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

honestly, i don't.....i don't personally know one fella that used it on their driveway....

BUT, after most of the guys on here use it, they swear by it....i've seen one guy that had a problem but he dug down below grade in a flat field and then brought the aggregate flush with the grade.....held water.....

like i said, after all of the reviews on here, i just wante to do it right the first time.......i'm pretty tight on most things, but i certainly don't want a road that requires gravel every year like my small driveway where i live now.....it just dissapears in to the ground below it....i thought fabric would help to prevent this.....

What makes you think you will need to use fabric at all ? I have put in several roads over the past 35 yrs. or so and only used fabric on one that bordered a wet land area and it has worked out fine. Another road was 1,200 ft. long with a graded red clay base and I put in crusher run 4" deep and added to it about every 5 yrs. or so but it packed like concrete. I grade it once a year with a box blade. Unless you have a really wet situation I for one do not see why you need the fabric especially if you put a crown on the road and keep in mind since you are going through the woods and your road will be tree lined , any roots you are digging up putting in the new road will likely cause the trees nearest the road to die in time so you may want to use caution how deeply you set your bucket or blade as you grade..

 

[Wesdor]

Why put down fabric?

Our son is a construction engineer and talked us into putting down the fabric. Rock will tend to "sink" into the ground and the fabric keeps it from doing that.

Like you have observed, this will cost you around $500 extra (maybe more), but when you compare that to the total cost of a home, I believe it is a wise investment.

We put down the rock 5 years ago and are very happy we do it.

Good luck on making the decision that fits your needs.

 

[Flatheadyoungin]

See my experience is that I could put down stuff the size of my fist and as soft as my clay is, it would press it in the ground the first time I drive over it. One winter and it would all be gone. I know that's building the base but I'd rather put down fabric and put a heavy layer of crusher run on it, compact it......call it a day.

Or at least this is what makes sense to me...