Buying Advice GC2400 rear blade

[Kal130]

Kal, I am "Snow Challenged" for sure. Be happy you are in a more humane climate.

Don't get me wrong, the GC is an awesome machine. It if wasn't for the crazy wind patterns around my house it would do just fine.

All the best

Not sure how humane my climate is. Cold as anywhere, I just exist on a line between the lake effect snow climate caused by lake Michigan and the normal climate south of me. I am lucky enough to own a payloader, would love to have the "need" to pull that puppy out. One thing you might consider is this, look around (tractorhouse and such) for an old Clark/Michigan wheel loader. Somewhere around a 55 or a 75 size. You could clear that lane in one pass and I will guarantee you will find several summer uses for it as well (like bringing up the grade of your driveway). Keep your GC for fine tuning after. Paid little for mine from a bankruptcy, but have seen them go at farm auctions for less than 5k. Rusty yellow stuff is a lot of fun when you live on a farm. I just saw a Cat D7 dozer on craigslist for 5k two days ago. If I hadn't just bought this GC I would be arranging trucking right now!

 

[weesa20]

I run a 4' box blade and a 5' woods RBC. Box blade I can pull with 4 rippers on their highest setting (least depth) or 2 all the way down and 2 high which also works pretty well. I have trouble with clearance on the back blade and it catches sometimes. Only other issue is that when running with alot of cutting angle and the blade angled it will cause the tractor to turn- some dirt in the bucket usually takes car eof that proble.

 

[Wacky]

I have a 6'. It works fine. I had to modify the 3pt. as the BH mount won't let my lower links spread out far enough. Without the BH I think that there would be ample room.

 

[Johndeere3720]

I have a 5' Montana blade that I got for $250 on sale. :thumbsup: I have run it on several different tractors, SCUTs and CUTs from 19hp to 44hp and it has not let me down. One thing i did to it was add the rear gauge wheels which was one of the best things i have done to it. They can both pivot and be set at a stationary setting which holds them straight for use in reverse or to keep them from moving when running through the barns with the tractor. Also, having the wheels and reversing the blade allows it to be easy to unhook, a definite plus since I have 3 imatch systems. The gauge wheels allow you to have more control with digging depth so you can plow snow without scraping up the gravel driveway. It also allows you put put weights on the back for both digging and for ballast with FELs. I have nothing bad to say about the gauge wheels, all it takes is two lawn mower tires, about $25 in steel, and some time. :thumbsup: For my 19 hp Yanmar CUT, the 5 foot blade is just right, same for the JD SCUT and so on.

 

[Wacky]

I have a 5' Montana blade that I got for $250 on sale. :thumbsup: I have run it on several different tractors, SCUTs and CUTs from 19hp to 44hp and it has not let me down. One thing i did to it was add the rear gauge wheels which was one of the best things i have done to it. They can both pivot and be set at a stationary setting which holds them straight for use in reverse or to keep them from moving when running through the barns with the tractor. Also, having the wheels and reversing the blade allows it to be easy to unhook, a definite plus since I have 3 imatch systems. The gauge wheels allow you to have more control with digging depth so you can plow snow without scraping up the gravel driveway. It also allows you put put weights on the back for both digging and for ballast with FELs. I have nothing bad to say about the gauge wheels, all it takes is two lawn mower tires, about $25 in steel, and some time. :thumbsup: For my 19 hp Yanmar CUT, the 5 foot blade is just right, same for the JD SCUT and so on.

Cool idea:thumbsup:

 

[ray66v]

I have a GC with the Massey 4ft blade and it will dead stop the tractor when it loads up with heavy stuff on my hilly 1/4 mile.

I have a 2310 with 72" loader mounted plow, turf tires, (no chains), 325' of gravel driveway, (pretty flat), and I can literally go through anything.

It's really windy where I am, and I have had 4' drifts all the way down the front drive, (150'), and big ones, here and there, on the rest. And this thing goes right through it, 99% of the time. That backhoe makes a great ballast system.

I used a friends New Holland TC 350 today. (BIG), it had 4 wd, ag tires 5 ft high, a loader, and a little back blade. It was a joke, compared to my GC 2310. It would not push much, and got stuck a lot. No ballast. :thumbsup:

I had a snow blower without a cab once, never again.

 

[archerynut]

I have 2310 and I would go for 6 ft. It would cover the tires when it has a moderate angle. I have 6 ft clamp on front blade and have had no problems with snows of 6" or less.

 

[VigII]

I have a 2310 with 72" loader mounted plow, turf tires, (no chains), 325' of gravel driveway, (pretty flat), and I can literally go through anything. ...>8...

I'm interested in the idea of a loader mounted plow. I have a GC2310 and the bucket is ~47" wide. I run a 48" blade from an old MF14 modified to fit my old MF10. I I'm considering mounting the blade for front-on snow pushing. That way the blade could easily be dismounted from the bucket to move the piles around with the FEL. My driveway is blacktop and the only thing I'd risk hitting is the curb at the end but I'd be careful there, that's the heavy stuff anyway.

Any other drawbacks to doing this? Hints on a mount design? I'm thinking a four point mount; top, bottom and sides, maybe top and bottom is good enough.

 

[ray66v]

I'm interested in the idea of a loader mounted plow. I have a GC2310 and the bucket is ~47" wide. I run a 48" blade from an old MF14 modified to fit my old MF10. I I'm considering mounting the blade for front-on snow pushing. That way the blade could easily be dismounted from the bucket to move the piles around with the FEL. My driveway is blacktop and the only thing I'd risk hitting is the curb at the end but I'd be careful there, that's the heavy stuff anyway.

Any other drawbacks to doing this? Hints on a mount design? I'm thinking a four point mount; top, bottom and sides, maybe top and bottom is good enough.

I would suggest you do not mount it on the bucket.

In my opinion, the bucket on one of these is not heavy enough to do this, without eventually damaging it.

A 48" plow is not going to be wide enough to cover the width of your wheels, when you angle it. You will need 60 inches or more, to do this well.

My plow is attached to the loader arms, which can also possibly sustain damage is you hit something pushing the plow. But I felt more comfortable this way.

The plow needs to be able to lift up independent of the loader, or it will put stress on it. Many designs you can view using the search feature, will use a chain to suspend the plow, and a hinge at the attachment point, to do this.

It should also have the ability to rotate a few degrees on a center axis, meaning one side should be able to go up, while the other side can go down. Some slop in the pivot where you angle the blade, can take care of this.

I also added pneumatic gauge wheels, in place of feet, to allow the plow to run 2" above my gravel drive. And, a 1.5 inch diameter piece of steel pipe attached to the bottom of the blade also keeps it from digging into the gravel.

 

[rjmack]

i had a 7' left over from my mf2135... works good.

then again, i am rarely looking at more than 6" of snow.

it will also pull a pretty good load of dirt behind it as long as it is angled:thumbsup: