GC2400 (and maybe other models) cheap side lift links

[Dmacleo]

well, when I first got tractor I tried drilling holes into lift links to alter lift height, big fail.
so at some point needed to replace the full LH lift link and RH link end piece.
here are prices:
RH turnbuckle END (only the end) 100$


then there is the whole left end rod. 103$



then there is this for a kubota at tractor supply for 28$



works fine, the lower pin slightly smaller than massey pin, enough meat to drill if desired. only issue is the t handles a little longer and if all the way raised cannot adjust. so either trim inch off each end or adjust when lowered. gonna buy another to replace the LH rod. so 60$ for 200$ of parts if I went massey.

have not had a chance to run part #'s against other GC series but....if needed worth a look. can always return the part if don't work.

edit: trimmed 1/2 inch off t-handle ends. works flawless and, with arms set level, I have ton of adjustment left where massey one was tight up against highest lift setting. tomorrow will go grab another and replace LH link, balance out against the already installed one. yeah will have 2 links with adjustments, big deal. hell will prob help me when creating crown on road since I don't have aux hydraulics.

 

[Dmacleo]

these are not best pics in world but they should show whats going on and the adjustment left. first pic is with it all lowered second pic is raised all the way.

 

[workinonit]

I'm not understanding what the original issue was with the turnbuckles.

 

[Dmacleo]

I'm not understanding what the original issue was with the turnbuckles.

first few words of org post

well, when I first got tractor I tried drilling holes into lift links to alter lift height

I drilled a crapload (3) holes in end of them (1 on turnbuckle and 2 on lh link) trying to alter lift height. all that did was cause bind ups using the huge holes I drilled due to lift geometry.

anyways, does the issue really matter?

massey wants 100$ each for either side.
I just proved a 28$ item per side will work.
so some GC series owners can get helped by my screwup cause even w/o drilling holes the lift links can get damaged.

edit: pic of LH link added. would you feel safe carrying 550+lbs around on that?? thats the 103$ part. a 27$ part gonna be put in tomorrow, tractor supply already processed my order for pickup tomorrow. so thats, with tax, 60$ spent to correct a 200$ screwup I made.

 

[Dmacleo]

prior owner had bent the implement end of the top link, been meaning to replace and today found the top link all bound up.
looked up the part on agco sight. just that end is 164 $


so went to tractor supply bought this countyline top link. its much beefier than the stock massey one. did have to grind a little off the sides of tractor end ball, took 5 minutes.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-top-link-cat-1-13-in-body-11stl156tsc

this is what this countyline top link and the 2 kubota side links looks like on the tractor.

 

[5030]

first few words of org post


I drilled a crapload (3) holes in end of them (1 on turnbuckle and 2 on lh link) trying to alter lift height. all that did was cause bind ups using the huge holes I drilled due to lift geometry.

anyways, does the issue really matter?

massey wants 100$ each for either side.
I just proved a 28$ item per side will work.
so some GC series owners can get helped by my screwup cause even w/o drilling holes the lift links can get damaged.

edit: pic of LH link added. would you feel safe carrying 550+lbs around on that?? thats the 103$ part. a 27$ part gonna be put in tomorrow, tractor supply already processed my order for pickup tomorrow. so thats, with tax, 60$ spent to correct a 200$ screwup I made.

View attachment 829803

That there are some UGLY holes. Never drill the links, always drill the lift arms and do it off the tractor, preferably with a drill press on slow speed, a properly sharpened and correct size drill and plenty of lubricant as well.

Bet you had fun pushing a stone dull drill through that. Pretty telling by the amount of flowed metal surrounding the holes. Bet that sucker was hot too.

Actually, the best way to bore a larger diameter hole in steel is to use an annular cutter the size of the pin plus a couple thousands, a tungsten carbide tipped one preferably, but still in a drill press, never on the tractor.

 

[Dmacleo]

That there are some UGLY holes. Never drill the links, always drill the lift arms and do it off the tractor, preferably with a drill press on slow speed, a properly sharpened and correct size drill and plenty of lubricant as well.

Bet you had fun pushing a stone dull drill through that. Pretty telling by the amount of flowed metal surrounding the holes. Bet that sucker was hot too.

Actually, the best way to bore a larger diameter hole in steel is to use an annular cutter the size of the pin plus a couple thousands, a tungsten carbide tipped one preferably, but still in a drill press, never on the tractor.

cannot buy lift arms for this anymore so I avoided drilling them.