daedong
Veteran Member
Could i use mild steel for gas (petrol) tank, for my houseboat or would it rust out from inside
gas tanks
- Thread starter daedong
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Bird
Rest in Peace
Vin, I see no one has answered yet, maybe because they're like me; I don't know. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif But, personally, I don't think I'd take the chance.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Do you have regulations that appy to building boats? If so there may be information on gas tank materials and construction. I'm quessing but I'd suspect the tank would require some type of official approval stamp.
Egon
Egon
Going by my expierence with motorcycles you should be fine. The only way to keep any gas tank from rusting on the inside is to keep it full.
If you want to really rust prof it, go by a motorcycle shop and ask the parts manager if he can get you a Kream(sp) tank sealer kit.
If you want to really rust prof it, go by a motorcycle shop and ask the parts manager if he can get you a Kream(sp) tank sealer kit.
hazmat
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Most tanks I've seen on boats are aluminum. Stainless would be nice, but too expensive. Plastic is an option, don't know what kind of service life you require.
5030
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Hi Mike:
Gasoline tanks, at least steel gasoline tanks are Terne plated steel. The Terne plating keeps the rust at bay for a long time. Most manufacturers are now going to high density plastic tanks as rust is never a problem.
Diesel fuel is compatible with aluminum, steel (Terne) or plastic tanks. The NHRA requires plastic or aluminum fuel cells with an approval stamp and date of manufacture.
By the way, how's your fittings doing??
Gasoline tanks, at least steel gasoline tanks are Terne plated steel. The Terne plating keeps the rust at bay for a long time. Most manufacturers are now going to high density plastic tanks as rust is never a problem.
Diesel fuel is compatible with aluminum, steel (Terne) or plastic tanks. The NHRA requires plastic or aluminum fuel cells with an approval stamp and date of manufacture.
By the way, how's your fittings doing??
MikePA
Super Moderator
I asked the question about it because the American Chopper guys are always bending, forming and welding sheet steel to make their gas tanks. However, the added twist in this thread is it being on a boat. Wasn't sure if that made a difference.
<font color="blue"> By the way, how's your fittings doing?? </font>
Just great! Not a drop of hyd fluid spilled! I am taking a few days off after Memorial Day and plan on getting the rest of my fence posts pounded in. Five days off and 30 posts per day should complete the job. At least that's my plan. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
<font color="blue"> By the way, how's your fittings doing?? </font>
Just great! Not a drop of hyd fluid spilled! I am taking a few days off after Memorial Day and plan on getting the rest of my fence posts pounded in. Five days off and 30 posts per day should complete the job. At least that's my plan. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
DavidJ
Gold Member
First and foremost I'm not in any way recommending that you do this. Ok, now back to the question.
My Dad and I had a boat that we built mild steel custom gasoline tanks for. We owned that boat about 15 years, using it in fresh and salt water and never had a problem. I sold it to a guy that used it for a couple of years and he sold it to someone else and as far as I know it's still being used. The only thing we did special was sand blast and paint the outside of the tanks. We never bothered about keeping them full but I'm sure that it would help keep down any condensation.
My Dad and I had a boat that we built mild steel custom gasoline tanks for. We owned that boat about 15 years, using it in fresh and salt water and never had a problem. I sold it to a guy that used it for a couple of years and he sold it to someone else and as far as I know it's still being used. The only thing we did special was sand blast and paint the outside of the tanks. We never bothered about keeping them full but I'm sure that it would help keep down any condensation.
Hi
I must say this first, TBN forums are GREAT! It does not matter what you post there is always a response from a broad spectrum of people, unlike so many other forums.
<font color="blue"> What are gas tanks usually made of? </font>
I have seen stainless steel, aluminum and mild steel but unfortunately I have not been able to take to anyone that has mild steel tanks.
<font color="blue"> Do you have regulations that appy to building boats </font>
There are no regulations that apply to building houseboats here in oz with the exception of navigation and safety gear, and EPA requirements regarding black water, unless you hire them out.
<font color="blue"> Most tanks I've seen on boats are aluminum. Stainless would be nice, but too expensive. </font>
Mild steel would be much cheaper for two reasons; one the price of materials and two I can do the work myself.
<font color="blue"> My Dad and I had a boat that we built mild steel custom gasoline tanks for. We owned that boat about 15 years, using it in fresh and salt water and never had a problem </font>
David do you remember what thickness steel was used and how big where they
I must say this first, TBN forums are GREAT! It does not matter what you post there is always a response from a broad spectrum of people, unlike so many other forums.
<font color="blue"> What are gas tanks usually made of? </font>
I have seen stainless steel, aluminum and mild steel but unfortunately I have not been able to take to anyone that has mild steel tanks.
<font color="blue"> Do you have regulations that appy to building boats </font>
There are no regulations that apply to building houseboats here in oz with the exception of navigation and safety gear, and EPA requirements regarding black water, unless you hire them out.
<font color="blue"> Most tanks I've seen on boats are aluminum. Stainless would be nice, but too expensive. </font>
Mild steel would be much cheaper for two reasons; one the price of materials and two I can do the work myself.
<font color="blue"> My Dad and I had a boat that we built mild steel custom gasoline tanks for. We owned that boat about 15 years, using it in fresh and salt water and never had a problem </font>
David do you remember what thickness steel was used and how big where they
missourihick
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I have an older runabout with a 26 gal steel tank under the bow. It says on the side coast gaurd approved. It is just thin mild steel or tin as most would call it,it has been in there since 1971,it is rusty around the bottom where it touches the carpet.I looked inside andthere is a little rust but not bad,.
SPIKER
Elite Member
I have seen them made form all kinds of stuff...
basic steel tanks have been around for ever and as long as they get coated with gas/fuel soon after they were made then the likely hood of rust is very small. when they do rust it is susally form one of 2 things.
1. water in fuel and the intake to engine does ont pick up the water off the very bottom of the tank.
2. the tank is left 1/2 full all the time and it condensates, again the pick up is too ihgh and the water is left in the tank to rust it out.
the new plastic ones will never rust. they also make boat tanks out of the plastic in 5 gallong size and some +/- too.
thickness of metal on the tanks is dependant on how big and who they are made. flat sides need thicker material than rounded sides. If you are building one for you're self then 16~18 ga is fine for up to 25 gallons, one side larger for 25 to 50 gallons (12~14ga) and anything over that then I would say at least a 11 ga materal.
Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
basic steel tanks have been around for ever and as long as they get coated with gas/fuel soon after they were made then the likely hood of rust is very small. when they do rust it is susally form one of 2 things.
1. water in fuel and the intake to engine does ont pick up the water off the very bottom of the tank.
2. the tank is left 1/2 full all the time and it condensates, again the pick up is too ihgh and the water is left in the tank to rust it out.
the new plastic ones will never rust. they also make boat tanks out of the plastic in 5 gallong size and some +/- too.
thickness of metal on the tanks is dependant on how big and who they are made. flat sides need thicker material than rounded sides. If you are building one for you're self then 16~18 ga is fine for up to 25 gallons, one side larger for 25 to 50 gallons (12~14ga) and anything over that then I would say at least a 11 ga materal.
Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
TOMDUALLY
Silver Member
You may want to checkout tour local salvage (junk) yards and find a good and proven tank off a truck or something that could be adapted to fit. I'm thinking of saddle tanks square or round. LOL
TOM
TOM
Buzz_Sawyer
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Well 55 gallon barrels are mild steel, and I see them used often on the farm for fuel tanks you could fashion a cradle and set it in ...then if it does rust after 30 years, spend $10 on a new one?
Egon
Epic Contributor
I do not know how but would say it has to be vented to the outside so there isn't an unexpected Bang from vapour fumes collecting in an enclosed area.
The filler pipe sould also be constructed so the tank - filler and fuel pump nozze are all grounded when filling.
Please note these are thoughts rather than true knowledge.
Egon
The filler pipe sould also be constructed so the tank - filler and fuel pump nozze are all grounded when filling.
Please note these are thoughts rather than true knowledge.
Egon
Soundguy
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Could use a spin on breather element? ( looks like a spin on oil filter ). Lots of our heavy equipment has them on oil resv's.
Looking at the safety vent cap on my IH tractor.. it looks like simple baffled device as well.
Hey now thats an idea... he could just use a vented gas cap...
Soundguy
Looking at the safety vent cap on my IH tractor.. it looks like simple baffled device as well.
Hey now thats an idea... he could just use a vented gas cap...
Soundguy
SnowRidge
Elite Member
Daedong, I owned an ocean going sailboat for many years. It was built in Taiwan with so called "black iron" fuel tanks. Turns out that black iron in this case meant mild steel.
The tanks were coated on the outside with red lead paint, but were uncoated on the inside. Because the boat wasn't built exactly according to the plans, the bilge was flat, and the bottom of the tanks frequently were slopped by bilge water. As a consequence, serious rusting took place on the outside of the tanks, but internal rusting was never a problem.
I sold the boat when she was about 25 years old, and the tanks had never leaked or been replaced. Others who owned sisterships weren't so lucky. Those unfortunates generally replaced the rusted out steel tanks with commercial plastic tanks.
Plastic tanks work well, but have two problems:
1. They often have no baffles. In a large tank, this is very bad.
2. They almost never have inspection/cleanout ports. This is more important with diesel than with gas (petrol down under?).
I would suggest going with commercial plastic tanks if you don't want or need baffles or cleanouts. If you do, build your own out of mild steel. Make the cleanout(s) big enough to stick your head in the tank.
Coat the tank's exterior with an epoxy coating of the type used on bridges following the maker's recommendations. I have used Amerlock, which may well not be available to you. It is a very thick paint-like product.
Be sure to ground the tank AND the filler. Put a loop in the vent line right before the vent. The tank's pick up tube should be a couple of inches above the tank bottom. If possible, screen the pickup.
I am most familiar with diesel powered boats. Their tanks almost always have drain plugs located low down on the side of the tank. I'm not sure if this is a good idea on a gasoline tank, though.
Use marine grade filler and vent hose, and double clamp all hoses at both ends.
Lastly, most governments have some rather strict regulations regarding fuel tank installations aboard vessels--especially gasoline powered vessels. There is a good reason for the regs. More than one gas powered boat has been blown sky high when a spark touched off gas vapors in the bilge. A gas tank installation done wrong can be deadly.
Please consult the applicable safety regs and keep you and yours safe.
Hope this of some use and good luck with your project.
SnowRidge
The tanks were coated on the outside with red lead paint, but were uncoated on the inside. Because the boat wasn't built exactly according to the plans, the bilge was flat, and the bottom of the tanks frequently were slopped by bilge water. As a consequence, serious rusting took place on the outside of the tanks, but internal rusting was never a problem.
I sold the boat when she was about 25 years old, and the tanks had never leaked or been replaced. Others who owned sisterships weren't so lucky. Those unfortunates generally replaced the rusted out steel tanks with commercial plastic tanks.
Plastic tanks work well, but have two problems:
1. They often have no baffles. In a large tank, this is very bad.
2. They almost never have inspection/cleanout ports. This is more important with diesel than with gas (petrol down under?).
I would suggest going with commercial plastic tanks if you don't want or need baffles or cleanouts. If you do, build your own out of mild steel. Make the cleanout(s) big enough to stick your head in the tank.
Coat the tank's exterior with an epoxy coating of the type used on bridges following the maker's recommendations. I have used Amerlock, which may well not be available to you. It is a very thick paint-like product.
Be sure to ground the tank AND the filler. Put a loop in the vent line right before the vent. The tank's pick up tube should be a couple of inches above the tank bottom. If possible, screen the pickup.
I am most familiar with diesel powered boats. Their tanks almost always have drain plugs located low down on the side of the tank. I'm not sure if this is a good idea on a gasoline tank, though.
Use marine grade filler and vent hose, and double clamp all hoses at both ends.
Lastly, most governments have some rather strict regulations regarding fuel tank installations aboard vessels--especially gasoline powered vessels. There is a good reason for the regs. More than one gas powered boat has been blown sky high when a spark touched off gas vapors in the bilge. A gas tank installation done wrong can be deadly.
Please consult the applicable safety regs and keep you and yours safe.
Hope this of some use and good luck with your project.
SnowRidge
em14
Platinum Member
If you don't vent the tank the outside air pressure will prevent the fuel from flowing well, if at all. I have seen automotive tanks where the tank's vent was stopped up completely collapse!
Leo
Leo
