Garage Renovation question

   / Garage Renovation question #11  
Do you think you could get away with moving it about 6" from its location? If you can; set new 4x 6 posts just outside one wall and just inside oppisite wall and using floor jacks; pick up and shift entire building onto new posts and plate.
 
   / Garage Renovation question #12  
City codes require any new construction to be at least 5 feet from the property line and there's not enough room between the house and the garage to move it over and still allow a walkway into the back yard. I spoke with the city inspector and he says I can do anything I want to with the existing garage without a permit, as long as it is not expanded or moved from it's current location.

It's this kind of nonsense that ticks me off about codes.
Sure glad i don't have any here.

L . B .
 
   / Garage Renovation question #13  
I had to repair a house with a clay tile roof that was distroyed by termites. Roof was ok, but every wall had to be replaced.

Went down to the rental house and got some large jackstands. Went to the lumber yard and got some long beams. Then a 4x4 and a hydraulic jack were used to lift structure and the jackstands held it.

I know you want to pour a slab, but you should jack from inside, and then provide final support from outside.
 

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   / Garage Renovation question #14  
I had to repair a house with a clay tile roof that was distroyed by termites. Roof was ok, but every wall had to be replaced.

Went down to the rental house and got some large jackstands. Went to the lumber yard and got some long beams. Then a 4x4 and a hydraulic jack were used to lift structure and the jackstands held it.

I know you want to pour a slab, but you should jack from inside, and then provide final support from outside.

I just want to make sure I have sequence correct.. You poured the slab first, raised the structure and then put down a foundation?

Wedge
 
   / Garage Renovation question #15  
man, that is some serious termite damage.....

around here, most of the old garages built in the 20s and 30s are sinking or sagging. they are also mostly built for either carriages or smaller old cars and nothing but a subcompact will fit in them. my wife's corolla was a good fit for one we had that is now a rental house. over time the old garages sink unevenly into the clay ground we have here. older footings weren't dug deep enough or wide enough, i guess.

it's good to know something could be done if we had too. i am looking at buying a house right now with a garage floor in similar condition. the walls are actually being held square with two sections of threaded bars that extend all the way across the existing floor and pull in on the walls to keep them from spreading at the base. owners in the past just know where the bars are and drive over them to park the car. not the best solution from a neatness perspective, but does the job and was easy to put in place.

amp
 
   / Garage Renovation question #16  
If you are in a position of repair only because of setbacks on property lines be careful of lifting it any amount.
I rebuilt my old rotten, rat-infested garage on exactly the same footprint but with teh new roof structure it was a little higher.
My neighbour took the opportunity to claim i built it outside the old perimter and that now the back wall is a huge monster! (5% larger than the old wall). With his lies ( a complainer doesn't have to provide proof) the municipality turned down my application for variance. So far it has cost me a year and $20k. I have a tarped over structure with a Stop Work Order sign on it!

BTW the neighbour extended his garage 10' into the setback.....
 
   / Garage Renovation question
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Fortunately I'm on good terms with all of my neighbors who would be in a position to complain. A couple of years ago I was intending to tear down my garage and workshop and build a new structure. Variances here can only be granted for 2 feet off of the 5' limit so I figured that in to the new structure. The city has to send out questionnaires to all the neighbors for input before the variance is approved. All of my neighbors were fine with the plan and the one neighbor that would be affected the most even offered to help out with the construction. The variance was approved (valid as long as construction started within 1 year) but I never found the time or the funds to get the work done. To try to build now I'd have to go back through the variance and permit process again.

I'd much rather build on my parents 50 acres about 10 miles out of town, but again, funds is the big limiter there.
 
   / Garage Renovation question #18  
It is possible to (1) pour a concrete slab just inside of where the footer/wall foundation would be, (2) raise the building straight up off the slab with a jack; and (3) pour footers and wall foundation in that sequence. Based on the post by 8934, I think he is also suggesting that the exterior walls should be braced. This approach is certainly an improvement over the termite eaten structure he started with.

Another possibility is to get a house mover to put the structure on steel and lift it up for you.

A combination of methods and sequences may be needed depending on your structure and what you have to work with. Whatever you do, be sure you can handle the work safely. You haven't gained anything if you get yourself or someone else hurt.

Anyone wanting to do this has to determine why the building is sinking and make the needed correction. In my case, the concrete grade beam was crumbling and was too narrow to start with. So a wider footer was poured.

Although my tractor was used some in the process to remove the remains of the grade beam, this is largely a pick, shovel, and wheelbarrow operation.

I think I recall that BrentD is also dealing with a post foundation. Removing the posts from underneath the wall will present some clearance issues. The building may have to be raised and then a section of posts cut off, posts pulled up further, sections cut off, etc. until the entire post is out. The alternative is to leave part of the posts and pour a thick enough footer to carry the load regardless of the posts rotting out later, I suppose.

demansoft brings up a good point about the possibility that the codes people might go nuts if the building appears to have been made taller in the process. Even if you set it down exactly at the same level, it may look taller once you eliminate the sagging. I suppose you could always establish a reference point and set it back down to that reference point if the final height might be an issue.

The other issue is having access to your neighbor's property to work on your building. It's a blessing that your neighbor is cooperative. Neighbors change. Code inspectors change. Codes change. You may want to get this done when folks are still friendly. If you get a neighbor later who won't let you work off his property, it could makes things more difficult.

My Grandmother had one of these narrow garages with a dirt floor. It had been extended to make a double car garage and had been extended to make it longer. I asked my Dad about it, and he said it was built when cars first came out and they were much narrower and shorter than cars built in later years.
 
   / Garage Renovation question
  • Thread Starter
#19  
The posts will probably be a problem. I was thinking of getting everything braced, then digging out from the inside and cutting them off with a chainsaw and using a tractor to pull out the stumps. My only problem with that is that my carport butts up against the garage and my dad's Ford/NH 1715 doesn't have a fold-down ROPS. I'd have to take it completely off to be able to work under the carport with it.

As far as the cause for the sinking... I really have no idea. The walls are not widening out, they're going straight down into the dirt. Digging down a couple of feet next to the posts I can't see any visible rot or damage to the posts. The odd thing is that the kitchen end of my house that is about 12 feet from the edge of the garage is also sinking. There is one beam about midway thorough my kitchen that appears to mark where the sinking stops. Everything from that beam on out has dropped maybe an inch since I've lived in the house. (And of course it just happens to be under the only seam in the linoleum that I had installed when I bought the house) It's almost like a fault runs though my property between the house and the garage. I know there are stories about at least one subdivision here in town being built on top of a stream. The stream used to run through town, and when they decided to build the subdivision they dropped large-diameter concrete pipe into the creek bed and piled dirt on top of it. That was done back in the early 1900's or so I'm told. Nobody seems to know for sure which subdivision sits on the underground stream now, of if it's even still there. I do know I'm about 5 blocks from the now filled in swimming pool that was originally fed by that stream, so I guess I could be on top of it.
 
   / Garage Renovation question #20  
I think the post pulling is best done with a farm jack and chain around the post or something like that instead of a tractor so you can feel what you're doing before something gets out of hand.

Now the rest of your post raises potentially bigger issues. Maybe you need to pull out your homeowner's insurance policy and take a look at what it covers?
 

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