Gannon/Woods HD4272 hydraulic box blade

[DieselBound]

Do you have two (significantly sized) trees that are close together such that you can use them to rig up to to hoist the box blade out of the bed?

Or with one tree (or maybe even the tractor) you could anchor the box blade to it and drive out the truck. Of course, you'd want to remove the tailgate and have something down on the bed (pry up box blade) and ample ramps (blocked). Could augment with tractor.

I've sought out lower ground to pull the back end of my truck up to to unload.

I've never failed to unload anything. Sometimes it can get a little harrowing.

That'll be a nice box blade. You really want it to be heavy to work well.

 

[biggziff]

Do you have two (significantly sized) trees that are close together such that you can use them to rig up to to hoist the box blade out of the bed?

Or with one tree (or maybe even the tractor) you could anchor the box blade to it and drive out the truck. Of course, you'd want to remove the tailgate and have something down on the bed (pry up box blade) and ample ramps (blocked). Could augment with tractor.

I've sought out lower ground to pull the back end of my truck up to to unload.

I've never failed to unload anything. Sometimes it can get a little harrowing.

That'll be a nice box blade. You really want it to be heavy to work well.

I'm used to sitting in my 10,000 pound tracked skid steer with a 7000 pound tipping weight. Nothing made that thing move. This tractor is so light it feels like it's going to flip over all the time. Just take time to get used to it, I suppose.

 

[DieselBound]

Yeah, I know what you mean. I've often rented a 19k lb excavator and that's pretty stable, though I've had it tipping and rocking at the edge of big holes/ditches One can always find the limits on anything

It's pretty much seat of the pants. The more you operate something the more you become aware of what the real thresholds are. When I got my NX it felt really big (after putting on about 1k hours on my B7800), but now (after 425 hrs) it feels just like another tool in the hands. Even with loaded rears I've had it tippy (though only a couple of times).

 

[biggziff]

Well, we got it out of his truck (was ridiculously easy once we thought about it a little) I had new hoses made up as the old ones looked brittle and I put it to work this evening. It's amazing how well these things work. The hydraulic scarifiers are such a wonderful addition. I started grading a neighbor's driveway and before long I had made a huge improvement (pics coming later on) I need to learn how to tilt this using the manual tilt link as this thing is so heavy it's hard to get it to move. Must be a technique I need to learn to make it easier and yes..I know a hydraulic tilt would be the way to go. I'm researching them as I go along. So far very pleased with this and the extra weight does seem to be a big benefit.

I had the ram removed in these pics while new hoses were being made up so you can see the ratchet strap holding the scarifier bar up so I could get the lower ram pin out.

 

[mopardude318]

Holy cow. That thing is big. Surprised your tractor can lift it!

 

[DieselBound]

Excellent!

Adjusting the tilt manually IS a bit tricky. I have only done it once with my boxblade and it was reverse of what most people likely do: I was cutting in a "V". I just dropped the link arms and cranked up, dropped arms, cranked and so on until I had enough tilt: felt it was easier to raise than to lower (or so I guessed at the time).

I couldn't justify the extra expense for hydraulic tilt as I don't have much need to change tilt. Top link, however, is totally necessary, and I couldn't imagine how anyone could get anything done without it.

 

[sd455dan]

Well, we got it out of his truck (was ridiculously easy once we thought about it a little) I had new hoses made up as the old ones looked brittle and I put it to work this evening. It's amazing how well these things work. The hydraulic scarifiers are such a wonderful addition. I started grading a neighbor's driveway and before long I had made a huge improvement (pics coming later on) I need to learn how to tilt this using the manual tilt link as this thing is so heavy it's hard to get it to move. Must be a technique I need to learn to make it easier and yes..I know a hydraulic tilt would be the way to go. I'm researching them as I go along. So far very pleased with this and the extra weight does seem to be a big benefit.

I had the ram removed in these pics while new hoses were being made up so you can see the ratchet strap holding the scarifier bar up so I could get the lower ram pin out.

View attachment 617288View attachment 617287View attachment 617286

That's Great news:thumbsup:

If you need to tilt the gannon up in the front manually -i would suggest using the 3 point lift by watching the upper link hit a point where it is just going in to tension you can then turn the top link to lengthen it. Once it binds up from the weight just inch up the 3 point lever to put just a little tension on the top link and screw it out a bit more to get the angle you want

If lowering the front of the blade set the box blade down to where the rear of the blade is touching -once again to remove pressure on the top link. then start shortening the top link once it starts to bind lower the 3 point control a bit more and continue to shorten the top link until you get to the desired position in length.

It sure points out how nice a top and tilt would be, but this method works for me .

Hope this makes sense and works for you.

ps. Be safe - since the tractor has to be running while moving the 3 point up for this method

 

[biggziff]

Holy cow. That thing is big. Surprised your tractor can lift it!

Kioti says 1700 pound lift on the 3 point. This weighs 1140 according to Woods.

It cuts wonderfully even when taking small layers off. That extra weight is a big benefit. I just go slow so nothing gets jarred too much when I hit a big rock, etc.

 

[biggziff]

Excellent!

Adjusting the tilt manually IS a bit tricky. I have only done it once with my boxblade and it was reverse of what most people likely do: I was cutting in a "V". I just dropped the link arms and cranked up, dropped arms, cranked and so on until I had enough tilt: felt it was easier to raise than to lower (or so I guessed at the time).

I couldn't justify the extra expense for hydraulic tilt as I don't have much need to change tilt. Top link, however, is totally necessary, and I couldn't imagine how anyone could get anything done without it.

Thanks for the encouragement. Used it another 2 hours this morning and am starting to get the hang of adjusting it by ear as I move along. With the extra weight, I don't need the scarifiers. It'll cut off a nice 2"-4" layer with ease. It turns up good sized rocks and carries them along for easy dumping. So far, so good.

 

[biggziff]

That's Great news:thumbsup:

If you need to tilt the gannon up in the front manually -i would suggest using the 3 point lift by watching the upper link hit a point where it is just going in to tension you can then turn the top link to lengthen it. Once it binds up from the weight just inch up the 3 point lever to put just a little tension on the top link and screw it out a bit more to get the angle you want

If lowering the front of the blade set the box blade down to where the rear of the blade is touching -once again to remove pressure on the top link. then start shortening the top link once it starts to bind lower the 3 point control a bit more and continue to shorten the top link until you get to the desired position in length.

It sure points out how nice a top and tilt would be, but this method works for me .

Hope this makes sense and works for you.

ps. Be safe - since the tractor has to be running while moving the 3 point up for this method

Yes, makes sense. Thanks for the tips!