Fuel Issue & draining

[Seananamous]

I'm from Texas where I'm told there's a good bit of algae buildup in the tanks when leaving them sit half empty because of the climate.
My tractor is part of that issue. Ever since I owned it - 8 months - I been noticing a gradual power loss until this point where it will start up but wont drive like it's starving for fuel, sputtering then suddenly dying.
I think the issue is because of the algae and muck buildup. It has about a half a tank of diesel and I want to drain it because I doubt the previous owners did.

So the question is whether I should throw in some cleaning additive now, letting it sit in the tank then draining? or should I do it with a full fresh tank of diesel?
I would like to clean it but accessing the metal tank and taking it off it impossible, and there's hardly any room to fit a hand in there.

 

[iflywhatevr]

Have you tried just changing the fuel filter?

 

[Seananamous]

I just recently did about a month ago.

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

If possible, put an inspection camera down into the fuel tank; if you have a biological growth in there it will be at the bottom and will look like fairy-floss (cotton-candy) mixed with phlegm. By all means put a diesel biocide treatment into the tank and let it sit for the recommended time IOT kill the growth.

Once that has occurred, you can drain the tank. Your next task will be to clean out the residue. This an be accomplished using a spring-loaded 'grabber' and a good supply of CHUX (J-Cloth) to wipe & soak up the remaining diesel/biocide. You can also check to see if there's any growth happening in the fuel bowl. Once the tank is cleaned up, add another biocide treatment and fill up with fresh diesel and turn-over (start) the tractor, which will allow the fresh diesel/biocide circulate through the fuel system.

Enjoy the site.

 

[Seananamous]

Thanks for your response! I put some biocide in it now just waiting 24H for it to kill the growth.
I really appreciate the detail.

 

[Texasmark]

Include fresh fuel filter(s)...some have one and others 2 filters...depends on the water tolerance of the injection pump. Just follow the fuel line from the tank....next thing on the line. You will have to bleed the fuel system any time you change filter cartridges....you can get an I and T service manual for your tractor on ebay for about $25. That explains how to bleed the fuel system to get the trapped air out that accumulated when you drained the fuel......or just google the subject and check out respondents from farm sites.

Once you get things cleaned up keep Power Services products in your fuel. Most auto parts and WW carry such, the gray container is for running hygiene and the white is storage hygiene. If you buy your fuel 5 gallons at a time, forget the white container just use the gray........cheap insurance....directions on the containers.

 

[Seananamous]

Thanks Mark,
I was sure to include all new fuel filters when adding a new tank of fuel before cleaning the tank. The issue was definitely the fuel pump and a good cleaning was needed. After a couple days of cleaning, it started right up. I added some Diesel Kleen as well which is what everyone recommended.

 

[Fallon]

Include fresh fuel filter(s)...some have one and others 2 filters...depends on the water tolerance of the injection pump. Just follow the fuel line from the tank....next thing on the line. You will have to bleed the fuel system any time you change filter cartridges....you can get an I and T service manual for your tractor on ebay for about $25. That explains how to bleed the fuel system to get the trapped air out that accumulated when you drained the fuel......or just google the subject and check out respondents from farm sites.

Once you get things cleaned up keep Power Services products in your fuel. Most auto parts and WW carry such, the gray container is for running hygiene and the white is storage hygiene. If you buy your fuel 5 gallons at a time, forget the white container just use the gray........cheap insurance....directions on the containers.

Neither white nor grey bottle Power Service are a biocide. I use white bottle ontop of only buying winter blend diesel. I have an unused bottle of red 911 I've never needed & hope to keep it that way.

But I also use a biocide to prevent "algae" (technically microbes like mold, fungus and bacteria not algae, but everybody calls it that). I forget if its Bio Kleen by the Power service guys or something else.

You need to kill all the microbes off, then clean out the tank, lines & filter. Then keep up on biocide & making sure you dont get water in your fuel to prevent the infestation from comming back. Microbes are everywhere, but they will really only take hold if there is water in addition to the food (diesel) in the tanks & the rest of the system.

 

[redman135]

There is a product that comes in a condom sized sock that attracts and chemically absorbs the moisture (much like "damp rid") it is hung in the fuel tank and replaced periodically.
It fixes both the water in the tank problem and the condensation, which is a common source of water in the fuel tank.
NO water = NO alge
Unfortunatly I have forgotten the name.
I suggest you try a truck products place like MTW as there is a range of sizes for both vehicle tank and storage tank.

 

[searcyfarms]

why are we getting so much algae growth these days and issues with diesel fuel that we never had/saw before? is it because of the lower sulfur content? Is this only happening in Bio Diesel or with the ULSD? I presume the yellow/green slimy stuff is algae, it is even that color in my off road red dyed diesel when i catch it in my strainer on my funnel from 5 gal cans so i know its coming from the station where i am getting it.