Oil & Fuel Fuel Gauge Question........

[max]

I have a question about typical fuel gauge operation - in particular the gauge needle itself. Is it "normal" for the needle to "bounce around" when the tractor is moving? I was driving a TC35 and it was hard to tell the amount of fuel in the tank (when moving) because the needle kept bouncing around (fuel movement?). When I would come to a stop, after the fuel settled down, the needle would also settle down. Now, I know that the gauge in my dad's old garden tractor would do that (due to float movement), but I didn't expect that in a modern (expensive) machine - heck, my truck (or any other car) doesn't do it! Do all of these gauges on orange, green, blue, etc act the same way? I'd like to hear from anyone on this - especially the class lll Boomer owners, but I am interested if green & orange do this also.
Thanks,
Max

 

[Bird]

Nope, Max, I don't have that problem on my orange B2710. Works just like my car; takes awhile to come off the full mark, but then the lower it gets the faster it falls./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird

 

[WoodDawg]

The fuel gage on my TC40 does bounce around also. The needle moves maybe a 1/4 of a tank when moving on rough ground. You would think they could have made it a little more stable.
Mark

 

[Fullthrottle]

My TC 45 does the same thing. Burns fuel faster than my last tractor to (MF 383 85hp).
Jeff

 

[gordon]

Ditto to what Bird said, cept mine is a L4310. But steady as a rock no matter how rough the ground.

Gordon

 

[alan40]

HI Max, I purchased a NH1720 in it's discontinued year and my fuel gage is steady as a rock. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Al

 

[OverlyRun]

Max,
Until I read your post I hadn't noticed the fuel guage bouncing, but when I went out to play...work... this morning, I see that mine too bounces around. I must say though, that when I'm working on bumpy ground, I am worried about where the wheels are, if the FEL is up off the ground and what the cutter is doing in the back, what stump or rock is going to spring out of the weeds, or what low-hanging branch is sizing me up for batting practice....leaving fuel checking for quiet moments. The tractor does so many things well, I can't hold this against it.
Chas

 

[Knight9]

Hi Max,

A TC29D was in the final running when I was tractor shopping. It had a very bouncy needle in the fuel guage. I did not like that at all. Ended up going with a Kubota B2410 and the fuel guage is very steady. No movement at all....except as I run the diesel out! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Kevin

 

[WoodDawg]

I have to agree with Chas! My TC40 does everything so well, I can't hold the fuel gage moving a little against it. I have spent many hours on Green and Orange tractors and am the happiest with this one. It is comfortable and I have a great view with the contured hood. If the gage is what make you choose a tractor, you are not looking at the big picture.
Mark

 

[jinman]

There are two things regarding fuel that are important to me. First, when I get on my tractor, I want to know if I have enough fuel to complete my job (nothing like having to stop to go get some fuel...AARGH!). Second, when I'm operating, I want to know when my fuel is getting really low. Since we class III boomer owners have a big 13.5 gal. tank, when the gage's needle points into the red, we have about 3 gal left. At that point, it's time to stop and get some "gas" or be finishing up what we are doing. As long as the gage is giggling, I know I still have a little fuel. Anything that sloshes in the tank will produce movement of the needle. So, while having a needle with smooth operation on a car/truck is good, I can make a case (at least) for having movement of the fuel gage on my tractor. This weekend, I paid attention to the needle bouncing into the red and bought 10 gallons of diesel. It just filled the tank. So...I'm with you guys, the bouncing gage tells me that everything is working and I don't see it as a negative on our tractors. I'm just glad I don't have to carry a dipstick on my Boomer like I do on my old Ford Jubilee.

JimI

 

[bgott]

A lot of cars run a 6 volt gauge and a voltage regulator that operates on a duty cycle ( on-off-on-off) that serves to delay the response of the gauge. I have no idea what they run on these tractors but I bet it's the cheapest thing they could build. It is recommended that you fill the fuel tank at the end of every day to minumize the possibility of condensation in the tank. If you fill the tank at night and check the gauge before you shut down for lunch you probably won't have to worry about the fuel level while operating the tractor.

 

[PBMAX]

Also most late model cars have pressure in the tank.Your tractor won't have much if any.Notice the hole in the fuel lid.This pressure helps in cars.But found out recently how important it can be.My dad has a 96 Izuzu Rodeo that he was having trouble with.The fuel gauge was acting up and the truck would run for a short period and shut off.Engine light coming on.After a few days of this, my Mom happened to notice the fuel cap was about to fall off.Sence she put it on tight.The fuel gauge behaves and truck runs fine.(GO
FIGURE).I understand the pressure related to the fuel pump thats easy.But WHO would think that would make the fuel gauge read erratically....?Sence I'm sure the tracors prob have the ol' cheep float type gauge I don't expect a perfectly steady gauge.Beside I usually, as mentioned fill up at the end of the day.Starting on full tank, I know I have at least 7hr of fuel....the next time I get on it....

O' and did we ever ribb the o'l man about that one....../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Laziness is the Father of invention.../w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
Lil' Paul
Proud owner of TC21D

 

[dieselpwr]

Max

My TC45D bounces around too. Just one more thing to bother me on this big, overpriced, unreliable riding lawnmower.

Troy

 

[Keoke]

Hi folks, they are two designs of automotive type fuel gauges.
The most comon is the the bi-metallic (heated needle) type that runs on a 12 volt off on pulse (50%duty cycle) that averages about 6-7 volts to gauge. This gauge takes a while to heat up and thus the slow needle rise and decay.
The other design is the magnetic coil type. This gauge uses two magnetic coils with the pointer in the middle, the needle will be pulled to the stronger of the two coils to give a reading. This gauges needle will quickly jump to whatever command that comes from the float resistance unit. English made cars used this type gauge extensively. General Motors also used this type of gauge a lot. GM however places a friction damper on the needle to keep it from fuel slosh jumping while most other manufactures do not. You will note that on some GM cars that the fuel needle will stay at indicated level even after turning off the ingition, this is because the damper will hold the needle in it's last position even with no power to circuit.
Note: when testing these fuel gauges the needle on the mag gauges will go to EMPTY when fuel sender is grounded. The reverse is true of the bi-metal gauges.
Hope this helps.

george

 

[Bulldogger]

I checked the fuel gauge on my TN75D last night while bush hogging and it did not appear to be moving. Even when on rough ground.