Fuel Cap on 4520 (another dumb question)

[RoyJackson]

I'm trying to get the fuel cap off the 4520. It's tight...real tight. I couldn't get it to budge even after tapping it (lightly) with a dead blow mallet.
Am I missing something here? The manual doesn't go into any detail...and I'm guessing it might be frozen.

 

[Coyote machine]

Can you spray some WD-40 or similar under where it torques onto the filler tube? Or how bout a hair dryer near the cap but not too close. Strap 'wench', or a big Channel lock plier? If all else fails use an AK or similar.
There are no dumb questions, only dumb ------. Fill in the blank with a suitable description.:thumbsup:

 

[oldtimer 66]

The fill cap has a ratchet mechanism inside . If you tighten it should click / over ride the clutch. It should lock up to loosen and or remove the cap. I replaced the metal inner liner on the fill cap on my tank because it was extremely rusted over time. The plating evidently was not what it should have been. Now maybe this is the problem with your fill cap is that it is bound up by this rusty inner liner. Maybe spray some penetrating oil up under the cap and maybe it will loosen up. Spray the penetrating oil and then air blast to force the oil under the cap. An alternate thing to do would be to remove the cap and the rusty liner at the same time knowing that you will need to get it repaired. There are four tabs on the inner liner that lock into a serrated ring just below the cap. The serrated ring is molded into the poly tank. The same is true for the metal inner liner. The poly tank has the cap threads molded into it and the metal inner liner is a mirror of the cap threads with these locking tabs. The tabs would need to be bent up at a 90 deg. angle to be able to un-screw the cap and metal inner liner at the same time. If this sound a little confusing I can get a picture of what I am talking about and or you can look up on the JD web site and you will see this metal inner liner on the parts breakdown of the fuel tank. Let me know what you need. I would try the penetrating oil first before the alternate game plan. One other thing is that I replaced my original cap with a JD locking cap, keyed. Now this one ratchet's and unless I go and find my old cap I maybe telling you wrong about the ratchet mechanism. One other thing I should note is that new liner is a devil to get locked in. I would not hit the fill cap with a mallet either that poly tank will be expensive. Maybe use a large strap wrench et. More on that later if needed. Let everybody know how you make out.

 

[arlen4720]

Is yours a cab or open station? I have an open station, and I've got it too tight before. I just grab it with a paper towel and crank. They are easy to cross thread at first because the thread is pretty coarse and the cap is smaller diameter. After I took mine off a few times, I got the feel for it.

The open station doesn't have the "ratchet" mechanism.

 

[RoyJackson]

My 4520 has a Curtis Cab, so I think that makes it an open station since the cab was dealer installed.
I guess I'll have to get a strap wrench...

 

[oldtimer 66]

I went and took some pictures to explain this insert. Like I said mine was really rusted and that is the reason I replaced it. My tractor is a 2006 model and both the original and keyed caps are ratchet type. JD must have done a cost out on the cap. You may only need to pull those tabs up maybe 60 deg approx. to get then to bypass the locking reliefs. The new insert is a cheap date if that is the problem. One other thing you may not have the metal liner like my tractor, maybe another JD cost out and you are locked up poly to poly. Then there would probably not be any tabs showing. Hey I have been wrong before. Later.

 

[oldtimer 66]

Like I said I have been wrong before. You have a completely different fuel cap setup than my cab tractor. I checked in the JD parts catalog, so disregard all of the above. Later

 

[RoyJackson]

Like I said I have been wrong before. You have a completely different fuel cap setup than my cab tractor. I checked in the JD parts catalog, so disregard all of the above. Later

Your heart was in the right place, Brother...

Thank you ALL for the responses!

I know part of the problem is, I just don't have a good solid grip (stroke many years ago).

 

[jenkinsph]

Roy,
Nothing special about the fuel cap, hope you can get it off without damage. Congrats on the new tractor too.

 

[RoyJackson]

Can you spray some WD-40 or similar under where it torques onto the filler tube? Or how bout a hair dryer near the cap but not too close. Strap 'wench', or a big Channel lock plier? If all else fails use an AK or similar.
There are no dumb questions, only dumb ------. Fill in the blank with a suitable description.:thumbsup:

I have a large channel lock...darned if I can find it though! I'll have to borrow a strap wrench from work. I think more leverage is the key.
Unlike my 4400, there is no fuel door to cover the cap. I'd guess there's a bit of ice at the bottom of the cap or maybe in a couple threads. My wife doesn't have a hair dryer.
I had a similar problem with my 4400 after I bought it. Some guys like to really torque down on these caps and that's not necessary. The 4400 cowl is quite a bit lower then the 4520 and it was open station. I could stand on the deck of the operator's station and get a really good grip. I have to stand on a ladder for the 4520 to get a similar grip...well, even then, it's a bit awkward.
One "good" thing...I have decided I'll need some kind of fuel caddy and hose to fill this tank. Filling directly out of a fuel can isn't going to work.