Frustrating starting problem

[bluegrass]

I have a 6 year old 3525 with a 2 year starting problem. Began after a routine dealer maintenance. (Prior to this I did my own maintenance) Turn the key and nothing happens except the dash lights come on. Head lights and blinkers are ok. Turn the key on and off 10-30 times and suddenly a partial turn of the starter. A few more key turns and the starter turns over and a grinding sound occurs. After that, turn the key and the starter turns perfectly and engine starts right up. All this is worse in the colder weather.
I have:
1. checked the safety lockouts by bypassing them
2. had the battery checked..twice at two separate parts stores. Replaced connectors.
3. pulled the starter and took it to the starter fixin place. They tested it, cleaned it and said starter and bendix are fine.
4. checked all connections, cleaned them, WD 40ed them, tightened them.
5. ran an "extra" ground connection to make sure it is ok
6. replaced the starter switch and double checked the connections

Any thoughts?

 

[Patches]

The problem may,(may) be in the solenoid; it's apparent you have a significant voltage problem at the starter. Did the "starter fixing place" check the starter solenoid itself?? I don't know where else to go with this, seeings how you've already checked the grounds, which can produce this sort of trouble :confused2:

 

[bluegrass]

The folks who checked the starter said the solenoid is ok. That is why this has been so frustratiing. Your emoticon expresses my feelings perfectly. Thanks for your input.

 

[J_J]

Have you tried using a remote starter switch, a push button switch with two wires clipped on to the start terminals. I had a similar problem, and the starter would motor over, and when I would use the remote push button switch, the starter would run normally, and the machine would start. If you were to put a volt meter on the start terminal on the starter, and turn the key switch, see if you have enough voltage to actually engage the solenoid. If not, recheck the wiring and the switch.

 

[bluegrass]

How much voltage should I have.?

 

[J_J]

If the solenoid is working, and the starter is drawing current, the voltage will drop to about 10 volts. You can usually tell if the starter is drawing amps if the headlights go dim. If you can put a screw driver across the batt and start terminal, and the engine cranks over, you have just tested the solenoid and starter, and the problem lies elsewhere.

Could be bad terminals or connectors, corrosion, etc. Check the fuse ends good, for corrosion, and the springs.

 

[bluegrass]

I checked every terminal and connection. I will check the the fuse ends more closely. The screwdriver across the terminals make sense and I will try it. Unfortunately, I work offshore and will not be home for 3 weeks, so I can not try it and report back any time soon. Thanks.

 

[Gator6x4]

The next time you are not working off shore, stop by the nearest Mahindra Dealer and purchase an ignition switch. In my opinion the switch is defective and not letting a true 12 volts pass through to the starter solenoid.

 

[bluegrass]

6. replaced the starter switch and double checked the connections

(and it was expensive, made of metal, not plastic like original)

 

[J_J]

Did you ever get the tractor to start?

 

[bluegrass]

Like I said in my first post, the tractor does finally start. But I have the same problem each time I try to restart.

 

[junkman104]

I have a 2415 and it did the same thing, it was the neutral switch on the shuttle shifter on mine.

 

[bluegrass]

Is that the high/low shifter?

 

[Gator6x4]

6. replaced the starter switch and double checked the connections

(and it was expensive, made of metal, not plastic like original)

Are you saying you replaced the "Starter Switch" or you have replaced the "Ignition Switch".
Does the tractor have a starter switch in addition to the ignition switch?

 

[LAWALLSTRACTOR]

The small wire going to the starter solonoid, does that have 12v when the key is in the start position? If it does your problem is in the battery connections the starter or the solonoid. If it doesn't have 12v the problem is in the switches (starter, or safety) or wiring before the solonoid. If you jump the solonoid, as mentioned before, and it turns over immediately your problem is in the switch wiring side. If you jump the solonoid, for safety sakes make sure all the shifters are in neutral, and the brakes are locked. Good luck with it.

 

[bluegrass]

Are you saying you replaced the "Starter Switch" or you have replaced the "Ignition Switch".
Does the tractor have a starter switch in addition to the ignition switch?

It has one switch that I use to start the tractor with my key. I guess it is the ignition switch.

 

[J_J]

bluegrass,

Did you try what I suggested in post #4, and 6?

 

[bluegrass]

No I have not. I am still at work offshore and will not be home for two more weeks.
(see post #7) I am going to try all the suggestions when I get home. If anyone else has any other ideas, keep them coming and THANKS to all who have made suggestions already.

 

[bluegrass]

I know it has been a while, but I thought I should update. I took all the info that yall took the time to post and thought about it. I quit trying to diagnose my problem and spent my time trying to figure how to fix it. So I ran a wire from the hot post on the starter, to the solenoid. Put a toggle switch at the appropriate place in the line and mounted the switch just below the original starter switch. Now I turn the original switch to "on", bump the toggle switch to "on" and the engine cranks better than it did when new. Of course, I turn the toggle to "off" after it does it's job. Thanks for all the input.

 

[dcyrilc]

I know it has been a while, but I thought I should update. I took all the info that yall took the time to post and thought about it. I quit trying to diagnose my problem and spent my time trying to figure how to fix it. So I ran a wire from the hot post on the starter, to the solenoid. Put a toggle switch at the appropriate place in the line and mounted the switch just below the original starter switch. Now I turn the original switch to "on", bump the toggle switch to "on" and the engine cranks better than it did when new. Of course, I turn the toggle to "off" after it does it's job. Thanks for all the input.

If you plan to keep the toggle for any length of time, you might think about changing it to a momentary switch so it shuts off as soon as you release it.