Frost heave?

[JJT]

Below frost level. Then put foam board over it. Frost will go down but not sideways.
I was going to suggest simply digging out the ground in front of, under, and in back of the door. Then replace it with good packing sand.

I agree sand. or fine gravel. Something well drained that cannot freeze.

 

[Bronco82]

Not sure if its reasonable in your situation or not, but what about trimming the bottom of your door? I have a 4 inch gap between the door and the ground and it allows for frost movement as well as some snow accumulation.

 

[gstrom99]

Not sure if its reasonable in your situation or not, but what about trimming the bottom of your door? I have a 4 inch gap between the door and the ground and it allows for frost movement as well as some snow accumulation.

The top track is adjustable. I just don't like the big gap on the bottom - lets all sorts of snow to blow in. There is only a slight slope to the entrance ie: poor drainage - but I'm stuck with that, since they originally built the barn about 6 inches too low. I keep a corner opened up pretty good for the cat(s) to come and go.

 

[Rustyiron]

I have built a few wood in ground "tracks" for rolling doors.

They work well although extended periods of very cold weather will "pinch" the door to where it's a pushing match but never to the point where I couldn't operate the door.
You can see it's basically a pressure treated U (2x6) with a 2x4 ripped to the doors thickness plus 1/2". 3/4" would be better. You can see how these spacers are not continuous to allow rain water to pass through. I dug a "trough" about a couple of feet wide and deep under the "track" then filled to the finish grade with this local gravel.

 

[BlueKnife]

they originally built the barn about 6 inches too low.

That's probably the biggest issue. If you could take care of the drainage problem, a lot of the frost heave would go away.

 

[Egon]

Frost heave:

Frost Heave - How It Works, Effects, and Prevention - The Constructor

🕑 Reading time: 1 minute Frost heave is an upward swelling of soil due to the formation of ice during freezing conditions. It usually occurs when the freezing temperature penetrates the soil and turns the present moisture into ice thereby generating an upward movement in the soil. The size of...

theconstructor.org

 

[gstrom99]

I have built a few wood in ground "tracks" for rolling doors.View attachment 848604
View attachment 848605
They work well although extended periods of very cold weather will "pinch" the door to where it's a pushing match but never to the point where I couldn't operate the door.
You can see it's basically a pressure treated U (2x6) with a 2x4 ripped to the doors thickness plus 1/2". 3/4" would be better. You can see how these spacers are not continuous to allow rain water to pass through. I dug a "trough" about a couple of feet wide and deep under the "track" then filled to the finish grade with this local gravel.

Thanks but, if I did something like that, it'd just be filled up with gravel/snow/ice in about a month.

 

[Jims1025R]

Yes, insulating foam under the door. Use 4" thick, and extend 2 feet either side of the door (inside and outside the barn - if not heated), and a little beyond the door travel (or around the posts). Put it down 6-7", and put 2-3" of your gravel or sand back over the foam. It will not heave after that.

A poured slab or concrete blocks as a threshold are only heave resistant if there is lots of well compacted clear stone with good drainage under it/them (and maybe insulation too). The insulation under the ground is more simple and low cost, and you can still grade the stone or sand above it.

 

[gstrom99]

Yes, insulating foam under the door. Use 4" thick, and extend 2 feet either side of the door (inside and outside the barn - if not heated), and a little beyond the door travel (or around the posts). Put it down 6-7", and put 2-3" of your gravel or sand back over the foam. It will not heave after that.

A poured slab or concrete blocks as a threshold are only heave resistant if there is lots of well compacted clear stone with good drainage under it/them (and maybe insulation too). The insulation under the ground is more simple and low cost, and you can still grade the stone or sand above it.

Good idea, and worth a try!

 

[gstrom99]

This thread has me thinking about how heavy this dang door is (steel panels and 2x6 framework) and how it's getting harder and harder to slide it open, even when it's not hung up on the gravel. I only open one of the sliding doors anyway. I might just look into sealing up the one unused half and get a roll up door for the opening I use... Menards has one, for about $1200 - plus installation.

Ideal Door® Commercial 12' x 12' White Non-Insulated Garage Door

Commercial Steel Panel garage doors are great for any building. Including post frame buildings, storage sheds, oversize garages and commercial buildings. This GOOD construction garage door is non-insulated. It offers dependable construction with long-lasting operation providing you with...

www.menards.com

There is a (bigger) sliding door pair on the north end of the barn to use if needed (I rarely open those), and they work "okay".