front wheel bearing
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HoyeTractor
Gold Member, Approved Advertiser
Those nuts do require a special socket. I made my own out of a piece of pipe and some small pieces of keystock but I usually do things the hard way. I dont know where you would find a socket like that. I'm surprised no one has responded to this. Most of my customers just use a pipe wrench. Be sure you knock the little locking tabs on the washer out of the way or you will never get it loose.
Aaron,
Parts@Hoyetractor.com
(940)438-0386
Aaron,
Parts@Hoyetractor.com
(940)438-0386
evofxdwg
Bronze Member
If it is a nut with 4 slots around the outside (like the one holding the final front axle gear on my 1610D), I sharpened a brass drift with an angle so it bites into the corner of a nut slot, then whacked it around with a hammer. Be careful to get a good angle so you dont have to hit it too much. That nut seemed to be softer than brass and I boogered up the slots a good deal. Before i put it back on, i ground the slots back sqare (well nearly) with a cutoff wheel for next time.
And yes, there should be a locking tab in one of the slots that you bend down before trying to move the nut.
And yes, there should be a locking tab in one of the slots that you bend down before trying to move the nut.
Okay....can you guys help me with a front wheel bearing?
I've got major leakage (and play), in the front right wheel bearing on my YM1401D....but it appears that the plate is a part of the shaft going into the front hub.....any special trick to getting this off before I take the entire hub assembly apart? I don't want to make things worse by banging where I shouldn't......
I'm pretty sure that it's just a seal (I saw the part I think it's leaking from on the Hoye site).
I've got major leakage (and play), in the front right wheel bearing on my YM1401D....but it appears that the plate is a part of the shaft going into the front hub.....any special trick to getting this off before I take the entire hub assembly apart? I don't want to make things worse by banging where I shouldn't......
I'm pretty sure that it's just a seal (I saw the part I think it's leaking from on the Hoye site).
Cord
Veteran Member
Don't panic just yet. I have my 1110 axle apart right now. I was able to get the castle nut off by tapping on the tabs using a screw driver and a hammer as the motivator. It started off pretty stiff, but freed up nicely once the o-ring cleared the housing. My wheel also had a small amount of play and the seal had failed. Once I got the knuckle apart I could see that there was a castle nut inside of the housing. The loose wheel did not have the drift pin which was meant to retain the castle nut. Once the nut loosened up, the seal didn't have a chance. I took the entire knuckle assembly down to a local bearing supplier and they had the correct axle seal on the shelf. I then decided to just totally reseal the entire axle. My cost to do this will be under $70 including new needle bearings for the steering shaft. Replace your defective seal and reset that castle nut and you should be good to go.
Thanks for your response. In looking at both what I can see so far, and from the exploded diagram (here):
http://www.hoyetractor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=14014WDEXTERNAL
I don't see any pins, setscrews, or nuts that would be holding it in; anyone see it on this diagram?
Thanks again,
Jason
http://www.hoyetractor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=14014WDEXTERNAL
I don't see any pins, setscrews, or nuts that would be holding it in; anyone see it on this diagram?
Thanks again,
Jason
1danny
Platinum Member
# 62 circle clip, but you will have to remove the hub assy.
Danny
Danny
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( # 62 circle clip, but you will have to remove the hub assy.
Danny )</font>
That's what I was afraid of. So really, I'm going to have to take the whole thing apart; pull 30 and 32 (the upper and lower hub assembly), off, which means getting it off of the axle up top, then remove the bottom (45), which is also the shaft that goes all the way up.....? Does that sound correct? And I'm guessing there's probably another clip somewhere in the top or on the axle itself, isn't there.
Hey.....is this one of those things where I have to take everything apart from the back forward just to get at it? I can just see myself completely taking this thing apart (the whole transmission, tractor, etc.), because the 'king clip' or whatever I have to start at is in the rear of the tractor!
Thanks again.
Danny )</font>
That's what I was afraid of. So really, I'm going to have to take the whole thing apart; pull 30 and 32 (the upper and lower hub assembly), off, which means getting it off of the axle up top, then remove the bottom (45), which is also the shaft that goes all the way up.....? Does that sound correct? And I'm guessing there's probably another clip somewhere in the top or on the axle itself, isn't there.
Hey.....is this one of those things where I have to take everything apart from the back forward just to get at it? I can just see myself completely taking this thing apart (the whole transmission, tractor, etc.), because the 'king clip' or whatever I have to start at is in the rear of the tractor!
Thanks again.
Cord
Veteran Member
I proably did you a bit of a disservice with my post. I wasn't meaning to imply that my axle was simular to yours. In fact, it's a totally different design. What I was trying to say is that the axle was really, really easy to get apart and to find replacement parts for.
mark777
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2004
- Messages
- 1,300
- Location
- S.E Texas
- Tractor
- Ym1300d-1401D-1601D , 1610D & Massey Ferguson 1020
Jason,
Yes....And I would think that you would want to.
You will have to disassemble front hubs completely. I would do one at a time and if you loose your way, the other side will guide you back to the proper order in which re-assembly is critical. It can be done in an afternoon. Taking your time and organizing the parts removed, cleaned with solvent and inspected for wear and rust. After doing the first one you should find it not too difficult.
Regards, Mark
Yes....And I would think that you would want to.
You will have to disassemble front hubs completely. I would do one at a time and if you loose your way, the other side will guide you back to the proper order in which re-assembly is critical. It can be done in an afternoon. Taking your time and organizing the parts removed, cleaned with solvent and inspected for wear and rust. After doing the first one you should find it not too difficult.
Regards, Mark
Cord
Veteran Member
Yea, don't disassemble both sides at once. Tear down one side and reassemble it. Then do the other side. If you kick your pile of parts, you could go insain trying to figure everything out.
Well, this is stumping us; we cannot get that top steering arm off. It's keyed, probably on a tapered shaft. We heated the crap out of it three times, beat on it, used a bearing puller, etc. It is frozen, frozen, frozen. A guy from the shop is going to bring me a pickle-fork tommorrow, so I'll give that a try. I don't really want to cut/torch it off it at all possible.
Also, we pulled the whole upper/lower hub assembly off, which includes half the front axle. Is that press fit into the gear in side the upper hub do you think? Or is it another clip or ring?
Also, we pulled the whole upper/lower hub assembly off, which includes half the front axle. Is that press fit into the gear in side the upper hub do you think? Or is it another clip or ring?
mark777
Veteran Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2004
- Messages
- 1,300
- Location
- S.E Texas
- Tractor
- Ym1300d-1401D-1601D , 1610D & Massey Ferguson 1020
Jason,
It sounds as though you are trying to pull the top drag link assembly off the top....It is much easier to remove bolts on the bottom of "Hoyes diagram PN#45" remove castle nut and shims, heat if necessary, reverse nut flush with top of PN# 45 and hammer assembly down.
Pushing the shaft down instead of pulling steering link up will make the job easier. Make sure care is given in protecting the threads, and the shaft is not tapered where the key stock is located.
The shims and nut apply the proper compression for the hub seal and also the steering stiffness. The weight of the assembly assists (gravity) in breaking the top link loose.
Mark
It sounds as though you are trying to pull the top drag link assembly off the top....It is much easier to remove bolts on the bottom of "Hoyes diagram PN#45" remove castle nut and shims, heat if necessary, reverse nut flush with top of PN# 45 and hammer assembly down.
Pushing the shaft down instead of pulling steering link up will make the job easier. Make sure care is given in protecting the threads, and the shaft is not tapered where the key stock is located.
The shims and nut apply the proper compression for the hub seal and also the steering stiffness. The weight of the assembly assists (gravity) in breaking the top link loose.
Mark
I understand what you're saying; put the nut on the very top (which is at the very top where its tapered on #45) and hammer down after removing the bolts on the bottom. No go on that; that was the first thing we tried. We'd still have to get that steering arm off, but it just ain't budging.
Do you think it's possible that all those gears coming in from the axle at the top, and the ones on the bottom are all holding it in place? I mean, there's a lot of links in there....
And by the way, I appreciate you continuing to answer my questions as I work through this. Thanks.
Do you think it's possible that all those gears coming in from the axle at the top, and the ones on the bottom are all holding it in place? I mean, there's a lot of links in there....
And by the way, I appreciate you continuing to answer my questions as I work through this. Thanks.
Okay, so I pulled the whole hub (upper and lower), off the front axle casing. With it came half of the front axle (from the differential). I was able to get the top steering arm off by using the pickle bar (and actually, it came out/off very easily with that. However, you guys make it sound (and Mark, your profile says you have an 1401D), as though I should be able to just pull that whole shaft down from the bottom, and it'll come right out. Uh.....no. I mean, maybe it should, but it doesn't.
It's still in there solid as can be. I mean, stuff turns and works (I cleaned it up, so it doesn't work great, but none of the gears are frozen). I can take this whole thing down to my mechanic and have it pressed down (from the top), and get it taken apart, but I'm a little concerned that's going to mess up the gears inside; plus, with the shaft coming in from the side, isn't that going to kind of keep everything together? Or maybe I'm just being a wuss and not as mechanically inclined as I 'should' be (hey....I build houses, not cars).
So what do you think; press it out from the top, or is there something else I'm doing wrong. I've attached a pic, I think, so you can see the axle going in, and the shaft on the top (which goes all the way through and is attached to that plate on the very, very bottom.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
It's still in there solid as can be. I mean, stuff turns and works (I cleaned it up, so it doesn't work great, but none of the gears are frozen). I can take this whole thing down to my mechanic and have it pressed down (from the top), and get it taken apart, but I'm a little concerned that's going to mess up the gears inside; plus, with the shaft coming in from the side, isn't that going to kind of keep everything together? Or maybe I'm just being a wuss and not as mechanically inclined as I 'should' be (hey....I build houses, not cars).
So what do you think; press it out from the top, or is there something else I'm doing wrong. I've attached a pic, I think, so you can see the axle going in, and the shaft on the top (which goes all the way through and is attached to that plate on the very, very bottom.
Thanks again for everyone's help.
Attachments
gbirky
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2002
- Messages
- 640
- Location
- Near Hagerstown, MD
- Tractor
- Yanmar models: YM1110D, YM1301D
From the diagram, it appears that there are needle bearings, spacers, and washers/shims on that shaft as well as the gears and larger bearings. I would guess that there is enough rust or hardened grease/lube that the shaft just doesnt' want to move inside all those parts. It appears that removing the shaft leaves everything else behind. It looks as though the only removal method is to either use a hammer to drive the shaft and plate down, or put it on a press and press it down. I don't think you are going to break the gears.
