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front wheel bearing
- Thread starter braulsy
- Start date
- Views: 4430
HoyeTractor
Gold Member, Approved Advertiser
Those nuts do require a special socket. I made my own out of a piece of pipe and some small pieces of keystock but I usually do things the hard way. I dont know where you would find a socket like that. I'm surprised no one has responded to this. Most of my customers just use a pipe wrench. Be sure you knock the little locking tabs on the washer out of the way or you will never get it loose.
Aaron,
Parts@Hoyetractor.com
(940)438-0386
Aaron,
Parts@Hoyetractor.com
(940)438-0386
evofxdwg
Bronze Member
If it is a nut with 4 slots around the outside (like the one holding the final front axle gear on my 1610D), I sharpened a brass drift with an angle so it bites into the corner of a nut slot, then whacked it around with a hammer. Be careful to get a good angle so you dont have to hit it too much. That nut seemed to be softer than brass and I boogered up the slots a good deal. Before i put it back on, i ground the slots back sqare (well nearly) with a cutoff wheel for next time.
And yes, there should be a locking tab in one of the slots that you bend down before trying to move the nut.
And yes, there should be a locking tab in one of the slots that you bend down before trying to move the nut.
Okay....can you guys help me with a front wheel bearing?
I've got major leakage (and play), in the front right wheel bearing on my YM1401D....but it appears that the plate is a part of the shaft going into the front hub.....any special trick to getting this off before I take the entire hub assembly apart? I don't want to make things worse by banging where I shouldn't......
I'm pretty sure that it's just a seal (I saw the part I think it's leaking from on the Hoye site).
I've got major leakage (and play), in the front right wheel bearing on my YM1401D....but it appears that the plate is a part of the shaft going into the front hub.....any special trick to getting this off before I take the entire hub assembly apart? I don't want to make things worse by banging where I shouldn't......
I'm pretty sure that it's just a seal (I saw the part I think it's leaking from on the Hoye site).
Cord
Veteran Member
Don't panic just yet. I have my 1110 axle apart right now. I was able to get the castle nut off by tapping on the tabs using a screw driver and a hammer as the motivator. It started off pretty stiff, but freed up nicely once the o-ring cleared the housing. My wheel also had a small amount of play and the seal had failed. Once I got the knuckle apart I could see that there was a castle nut inside of the housing. The loose wheel did not have the drift pin which was meant to retain the castle nut. Once the nut loosened up, the seal didn't have a chance. I took the entire knuckle assembly down to a local bearing supplier and they had the correct axle seal on the shelf. I then decided to just totally reseal the entire axle. My cost to do this will be under $70 including new needle bearings for the steering shaft. Replace your defective seal and reset that castle nut and you should be good to go.
Thanks for your response. In looking at both what I can see so far, and from the exploded diagram (here):
http://www.hoyetractor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=14014WDEXTERNAL
I don't see any pins, setscrews, or nuts that would be holding it in; anyone see it on this diagram?
Thanks again,
Jason
http://www.hoyetractor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=14014WDEXTERNAL
I don't see any pins, setscrews, or nuts that would be holding it in; anyone see it on this diagram?
Thanks again,
Jason
1danny
Platinum Member
# 62 circle clip, but you will have to remove the hub assy.
Danny
Danny
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( # 62 circle clip, but you will have to remove the hub assy.
Danny )</font>
That's what I was afraid of. So really, I'm going to have to take the whole thing apart; pull 30 and 32 (the upper and lower hub assembly), off, which means getting it off of the axle up top, then remove the bottom (45), which is also the shaft that goes all the way up.....? Does that sound correct? And I'm guessing there's probably another clip somewhere in the top or on the axle itself, isn't there.
Hey.....is this one of those things where I have to take everything apart from the back forward just to get at it? I can just see myself completely taking this thing apart (the whole transmission, tractor, etc.), because the 'king clip' or whatever I have to start at is in the rear of the tractor!
Thanks again.
Danny )</font>
That's what I was afraid of. So really, I'm going to have to take the whole thing apart; pull 30 and 32 (the upper and lower hub assembly), off, which means getting it off of the axle up top, then remove the bottom (45), which is also the shaft that goes all the way up.....? Does that sound correct? And I'm guessing there's probably another clip somewhere in the top or on the axle itself, isn't there.
Hey.....is this one of those things where I have to take everything apart from the back forward just to get at it? I can just see myself completely taking this thing apart (the whole transmission, tractor, etc.), because the 'king clip' or whatever I have to start at is in the rear of the tractor!
Thanks again.
Cord
Veteran Member
I proably did you a bit of a disservice with my post. I wasn't meaning to imply that my axle was simular to yours. In fact, it's a totally different design. What I was trying to say is that the axle was really, really easy to get apart and to find replacement parts for.
