Front Axle Fluidf

[TJP89]

This week when we got a foot of snow dumped on us, I had to start plowing. Since the 4WD was about to go from lightly used to not disengaged until about march, I decided it was a good idea to check the front axle fluid. I wasn't surprised that it was down, I was surprised that it was down by 3 quarts (out of 5)! That means I had to add 3/5s of the capacity. I changed it at fifty hours, and was only at 180, next change due at 400. It was not leaking, and there was no noticeable difference in performance. Has anyone ever had their front axle lose this much? I don't think I did any damage, but is it possible? How about explanations for the loss?

 

[tman1020]

It seems like front axle fluid specifications are never right on for me. Every time I buy exactly what manuals recommend it seems like come up short. If not at time of Fill after I run it a little bit. On my current tractor when I change the fluid it also took more than recommended. It has a sightglass with a floating ball to let me know when it is at the proper level. I had to add 4 separate times after a fluid change and then all of a sudden it showed too much? So I let it ride for a while and it seem to settle down to right where it was supposed to be. Always was checked on level concrete floor so yes it's a Mistry to me as well. I attribute it to the fact that there are a lot of places for the fluid to go but it takes a while to settle in there.

 

[MichiganIron]

Be careful when re-filling the front axles. If you don't get the specified amount in the axle, there are air pockets in the bevel gear cases. Make sure you move the tractor forward and reverse after filling the front axle, then stop and re-check the fluid level. Most times, it takes a couple tries to get the axle filled to the correct level.

Also, if you are in colder climates, use the same Trans/Diff fluid in the front axle that you use in the transmission. The front axle never sees the heat from the engine or the transmission during use. The 80W/90 gear oil is just too thick in the clod climates to flow well through the bevel gear cases. Here in Michigan, we always use the Trans/Diff fluid in the front axles.

 

[TJP89]

Be careful when re-filling the front axles. If you don't get the specified amount in the axle, there are air pockets in the bevel gear cases. Make sure you move the tractor forward and reverse after filling the front axle, then stop and re-check the fluid level. Most times, it takes a couple tries to get the axle filled to the correct level.

Also, if you are in colder climates, use the same Trans/Diff fluid in the front axle that you use in the transmission. The front axle never sees the heat from the engine or the transmission during use. The 80W/90 gear oil is just too thick in the clod climates to flow well through the bevel gear cases. Here in Michigan, we always use the Trans/Diff fluid in the front axles.

Thanks, I may do that. When I changed it at 50hrs, it took only 4 quarts, and didn't go down even after I had run it around a bit. I checked for a while, but it never went down, so I left it alone, as it doesn't need to be changed all that often. The strange thing was this was just supposed to be a top off, I never drained the oil.

 

[cat fever]

At my 50 hour service, the dip stick showed no fluid. No leaks either. I changed it out. It took a few days of adding/draining to get the level just right on the dip stick. I only wish I knew exactly how much I put in. The container had been used to change the gear oil on my baler. (2 reservoirs) So I'll have to keep track next time.

 

[1965]

Be careful when re-filling the front axles. If you don't get the specified amount in the axle, there are air pockets in the bevel gear cases. Make sure you move the tractor forward and reverse after filling the front axle, then stop and re-check the fluid level. Most times, it takes a couple tries to get the axle filled to the correct level.

Also, if you are in colder climates, use the same Trans/Diff fluid in the front axle that you use in the transmission. The front axle never sees the heat from the engine or the transmission during use. The 80W/90 gear oil is just too thick in the clod climates to flow well through the bevel gear cases. Here in Michigan, we always use the Trans/Diff fluid in the front axles.

The previous owner of my tractor told me to use the hy-trans oil in the front axle as well (Canada). Do you recommend going back to the heavier grade gear oil during the hot months or does it not make a difference?

 

[ray66v]

The previous owner of my tractor told me to use the hy-trans oil in the front axle as well (Canada). Do you recommend going back to the heavier grade gear oil during the hot months or does it not make a difference?

The 80/90 is not heavier than the transmission oil. They are about the same viscosity.

The gear oil viscosity scale is not the same as the scale used for motor oil, giving people the impression that it's heavier.

Pour the trans oil and the 80/90 side by side, and you can see they are basically the same viscosity.

If you want better cold weather performance, you could use synthetic 80/90. Some brands are only a few dollars more than conventional.

 

[liberty2701]

The 80/90 is not heavier than the transmission oil. They are about the same viscosity.

The gear oil viscosity scale is not the same as the scale used for motor oil, giving people the impression that it's heavier.

Pour the trans oil and the 80/90 side by side, and you can see they are basically the same viscosity.

If you want better cold weather performance, you could use synthetic 80/90. Some brands are only a few dollars more than conventional.

I do not think that is true . The oil used in my hst is a 10w30 viscosity ( oem fill). I actually use Amsoil ath which is a 5w30. Alot thinner than a 80 w90 gear oil.

 

[ray66v]

I do not think that is true . The oil used in my hst is a 10w30 viscosity ( oem fill). I actually use Amsoil ath which is a 5w30. Alot thinner than a 80 w90 gear oil.

I understand that people find this hard to accept. Believe what you want.

If you are really interested in knowing, do a timed viscosity test yourself. It's very simple to do. I have, it's not "a lot thinner". I tested ATH, (which I use), and a conventional 89/90. Both had similar characteristics at 70F. As I said, pour them side by side, and you will see that.

As the chart indicates, viscosity varies widely. Each brand is different. No oil you test in the 30-50w range for motor oil, is going to have a significant difference in viscosity at 70F. No 80/90 gear oil will have a significant viscosity difference, between it and hydraulic transmission oil.

That is precisely why they are interchangeable in a differential. They are both basically light weight gear oil. The transmission oil just has different additives.

 

[liberty2701]

I understand that people find this hard to accept. Believe what you want.

If you are really interested in knowing, do a timed viscosity test yourself. It's very simple to do. I have, it's not "a lot thinner". I tested ATH, (which I use), and a conventional 89/90. Both had similar characteristics at 70F. As I said, pour them side by side, and you will see that.

As the chart indicates, viscosity varies widely. Each brand is different. No oil you test in the 30-50w range for motor oil, is going to have a significant difference in viscosity at 70F. No 80/90 gear oil will have a significant viscosity difference, between it and hydraulic transmission oil.

That is precisely why they are interchangeable in a differential. They are both basically light weight gear oil. The transmission oil just has different additives.

What happens when you try pouring that at say 20 degrees F ? I believe my Amsoil will flow at -50 F. Gear oil will be solid.