Framing partition walls for corrugated stee sheathing?

[metalcaster]

I'm rebuilding a room in one of our barns to raise fodder for our horses. Had a smaller room last winter that was wood framed and covered with OSB painted with gloss white. It was a little small so we took it down and now am ready to do it right. The barn is of pole construction with trusses so the walls will not be load bearing. Normal framing would be 16" OC vertical studs, but how does that work out with 36" wide steel panels? Would horizontal framing be an option in this application? Walls will be 14' and 16' long both 10' high. Or sheath with osb and then cover with the steel?

 

[Dave M7040]

Frame on 12" centers. It will not add much to the cost and will better support the steel panels.
If this condition occurs, leave clearance between top of walls and trusses to allow the trusses to deflect without obstruction.
Trusses can deflect 1/240 of the span at the middle under design snow load.
Dave M7040

 

[paulharvey]

I'm rebuilding a room in one of our barns to raise fodder for our horses. Had a smaller room last winter that was wood framed and covered with OSB painted with gloss white. It was a little small so we took it down and now am ready to do it right. The barn is of pole construction with trusses so the walls will not be load bearing. Normal framing would be 16" OC vertical studs, but how does that work out with 36" wide steel panels? Would horizontal framing be an option in this application? Walls will be 14' and 16' long both 10' high. Or sheath with osb and then cover with the steel?

Just run a horizontal row of blocking about 12", 48", 84", and 10 ft. Screw your metal off to the horizontal 2x4.

Or go with 24" OC studs and run purlions (nailed/screwed horizontally to the studs). Way faster than blocking, and adds more strength to the wall. Metal does add a little shear strength, but not that much,

 

[KennyG]

The odd thing about using metal interior panels is that the stiffness is not the same in both directions because of the corrugation. With studded walls (as opposed to girts or purlins) the technically correct way to run the steel is with the corrugations horizontal. If you do it that way a partition wall (no vertical load support) only needs to have a stud every 48". If you don't like that look (or you want to support loads) the above recommendations are probably best.

 

[KevT]

I agree with paulharvey or you can still frame 16" oc and just screw the seams together with caulking in the joints if you don't have room for 5" walls. A lot depends on where you get your panels from. The ones that HD and Lowes sell are very light gauge, where if you get them from a metal manufacturer they are much heavier gauge.

 

[metalcaster]

I could do horizontal runs on 24" centers and block the runs vertically every few feet. Or vertical studs every 18" to catch the edges of the sheets? But then I will have difficulty in filling the spaces with the insulation that I removed from the old walls.
The steel is the thinner liner panels available through a local lumber company that will cut it to the inch once I get it framed.

 

[EddieWalker]

Why not go with studs every 24 inches and install the metal sideways?

 

[metalcaster]

Why not go with studs every 24 inches and install the metal sideways?

I don't care for the look of the corrugations going horizontally.

Talked with the lumber sales guy and he said it is done several different ways. I'm going to run 2 by's horizontal with vertical bracing. Then have the steel corrugations vertical. I'll end up with around 5" walls insulated and if I silicon the joints as I assemble; pretty tight.

 

[gtrippleb]

Just run a horizontal row of blocking about 12", 48", 84", and 10 ft. Screw your metal off to the horizontal 2x4.

Or go with 24" OC studs and run purlions (nailed/screwed horizontally to the studs). Way faster than blocking, and adds more strength to the wall. Metal does add a little shear strength, but not that much,

When closing in my carport this is pretty much what I did. Studs are 16" on center 9' tall. I ran 2x4 purloins horizontal essentially 24" on center. I then installed 1/2" and 1" polystyrene foam board between the 2x4 purloins overlapping the seams. Then covered the wall with 1/4" polystyrene foam board, house wrap, and then attached the metal vertically screwing the metal into the 2x4 purloins. I thought I also had a picture of the outside but couldn't find it. Here's one from the inside as I was putting up one of the walls.