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   / Fork question #1  

RegL

Platinum Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2003
Messages
705
Location
Northwestern CT
Tractor
PT 1430
This question is for someone who has pt forks, or better yet, has adapted other forks with PT adaptor. I picked up an old set at auction yesterday that I'm going to have the adaptor plate welded on. What I need to know is, what angle should the adaptor plate be installed at so you get the proper amount or rollback and dump? I am guessing about the same as the buckets but want to hear it from the experts.
 
   / Fork question #2  
Attached is a picture of mine on our PT425(taken just for you about 5 minutes ago).... from the picture, you can see that they are attached to the mounting plate at less than a 90 degree angle, and there is a thinner plate welded vertically at a 90 degree angle.

The forks were only $$250.00 when I bought them new. An attachment plate was $100.00. So, if you got the forks for under a hundred bucks, you'll come out ahead, even if labor is $50.00.
 

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   / Fork question #3  
By the way, I used the forks to pop out a bunch of bamboo-like giant reed grass roots today. The forks jam into the ground pretty well if you rock the joystick left and right while dancing on the treadle pedals. Put them in and out a few times around a bush or small stump, then start working it up and out of the ground. Works great! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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  • Thread Starter
#4  
MR, Thanks for the pic. About what I figured as far as the angle go's. The forks I got are the skid steer quick connect type and the backing plate is straight up and down, so I'll have to have the welder build in an angle for PT plate. By the way, I payed $350 but PT wants $1200 last time I checked. I think yours were less becaused they are fixed rather than adjustable.
 
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What size PT are you putting them on? Adjustable forks would be nice, but any weight that we add to the front of the little PT425 would be a detriment. Once you get into the larger units, it doesn't matter as much.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#6  
I'm putting them on the 1430. They are not real heavy one's, I would guess about 200 lbs. I'll let you know how they work when I find time to get them rigged up. By the way, when I was at the auction, i think I could hear Sedgewood's PT running just over the hill.
 
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All I did on the forks and carridge assembly that I bought, was to weld a three point setup to the back of the carridge frame. Did you get the carridge assembly with the forks ? Mine add about 225 lbs to the front. I also cut a 1 in hole in the tip of the fork for a 1 in ball to move trailers, boats and such. Good luck with yours.

J.J.
 
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<font color="red"> By the way, when I was at the auction, i think I could hear Sedgewood's PT running just over the hill.
</font>

It's tough keeping PT away from those auctions - he's always on the lookout for new stuff to break! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Sedgewood
 
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  • Thread Starter
#9  
JJ, The forks did come with the carrage frame, the type used on a skid steer. I plan to mount the PT attachment plate to the back of it. It looks like the PT dosen't have as much role back as a skid steer so the PT plate can't be mounted flush with the back of the fork's frame, it will have to be angled forward some what. I think the same angle thats built into the large bucket will work but I will study it some before I get it welded up. Oh! one of the forks has that hole drilled in it. You better check and see if you still have yours. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Fork question #10  
Yes, I still have all three. On the carridge, , my link arm has a two position hole for different implements. This allows me to point the forks down to about a 75 degree angle. I can curl up enough to dump what ever I am lifting all over me. Have to be careful. I also welded a 2 in receiver on the lower bar of the carridge to hall things around.

On the third fork, I am trying to make a mini-hoe. I think it's going to work out.
 
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I added about 3 - 4 inches of steel at the bottom of the plate to increase back tilt. I wish i had added more.

No way i could get by with fixed forks.

Ken
 
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Love to see a pic of that
 
   / Fork question #13  
Here is a picture showing the metal added for the angle of the plate on my bucket as well as the adjustable top link i used to replace the fixed one.

Amazing how rust gets magnified by flash.
 

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   / Fork question #14  
Here is a picture showing the metal added for the angle of the plate on my bucket as well as the adjustable top link i used to replace the fixed one.

Amazing how rust gets magnified by flash.

What's the advantage of an adjustable top link? I see threads at the top and it appears to adjust by rotating the link body by only an inch. Just curious.
 
   / Fork question #15  
It is a standard tractor adjustable top link threaded like a turn buckle. There is quite a bit of range of adjustment to it (almost double the length of the top link although fully extended would be weaker). It is set shorter than the fixed top link that came with my PT. I seldom adjust it but it is nice to be able to when i do need it. I actually need to find a shorter than normal top link. There are times where even shorter would be nice.

Ken
 
   / Fork question #16  
SpringHollow,

Why not make one like mine with about 4 holes for different attachments. You will still have the strength of the top link.
 
   / Fork question #17  
SpringHollow,

Why not make one like mine with about 4 holes for different attachments. You will still have the strength of the top link.

Because the adjustable ones are infinitely adjustable and are only $25.00 for CAT1 or CAT2 at Rural King. The hardest part is matching up the correct bushings to go inside the ends. Seems every time I go to a farm supply store for two bushings, they only have one in the bin! :laughing:

I have an adjustable link left over from my 3PT hitch days before I wisened up and bought the Power Trac. :)
 
   / Fork question #18  
For mine, it was a direct replacement, no bushings required. They can be had for $12 on sale. I already had one from my CUT days.

Ken
 

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