Ford LGT Crawler Conversion

[Chopperhed]

The ramps to take the tractor off the welding cart? You are right. Maybe the decals will help. I do love the shade of blue you are using though

Yes, or table actually, the tractor now weighs close to 1900 lbs, wooden planks aren't going to handle that, they barely handle a 900 lb GT.

The decals should make a large difference, but I didn't build it to show. it's meant to work.

The blue is Tremclad Royal Blue, the closest I could find to the original Ford blue, It's a very close match.

 

[farm boy00]

Yes, or table actually, the tractor now weighs close to 1900 lbs, wooden planks aren't going to handle that, they barely handle a 900 lb GT.

The decals should make a large difference, but I didn't build it to show. it's meant to work.

The blue is Tremclad Royal Blue, the closest I could find to the original Ford blue, It's a very close match.

My father actually has hard wood planks that actually would hold up to that. Im not sure what wood they are

 

[Chopperhed]

My father actually has hard wood planks that actually would hold up to that. Im not sure what wood they are

Actually, heavy would planks could probably do it. But all my planks are basic 2 x 12s. The 2 pieces of 12" C-channel were a freebie from a good friend of mine.

On the plus side I had it running today, and it moved under its own power. Front blade downforce was good, and all the front hydraulics worked as expected. The rear ripper was not strong enough to pick up the rear of the tractor.



Got all the lights installed and wired up





I discovered a problem in the linkage but I think I've got it fixed now. Unfortunately I had to split the tracks to do it.

Then after about 20 or so operations of the main power switch it shorted inside, I'll need a new one and a better circuit breaker. I'll pick that up tomorrow.

 

[farm boy00]

Your rippers could be just as strong as your blade, but they don't have the leverage as the blade and have to pick up more weight

 

[Chopperhed]

Your rippers could be just as strong as your blade, but they don't have the leverage as the blade and have to pick up more weight

The ripper runs off the stock deck lift cylinder. It's relatively low pressure and just about 40 years old. I suspect if it was new and the engine was throttled up, it might have better results.

 

[farm boy00]

The ripper runs off the stock deck lift cylinder. It's relatively low pressure and just about 40 years old. I suspect if it was new and the engine was throttled up, it might have better results.

That makes more since. It should pull itself down though when it hits ground. Good luck finishing and remember. We need videos

 

[Chopperhed]

That makes more since. It should pull itself down though when it hits ground. Good luck finishing and remember. We need videos

It should dig fine in dirt, It does try to lift the tractor, and holds when it's down.

I blocked up the center of the tractor today, and managed to get it up on enough blocks and the front blade to check the tracks. They seem to move smoothly, and don't appear to load the engine much, even at idle. The front hydraulics can pick the front up to the full extent just off idle, so, I expect good things.

 

[farm boy00]

She looks absolutely beautiful!!

 

[Chopperhed]

She looks absolutely beautiful!!

You are my biggest fan.

Yes I 'm quite proud of her. It's the most ambitious/ expensive project I've built so far.

Just wait. I ordered the decals this morning.

 

[Chopperhed]

Was thinking of making a full under carriage that you just drive on, pull the front axle, and change out the rears for a sprocket. By using the hydraulic steering to the calipers for braking, it would be easy to use for both systems.

Using the independent braking as an assist and differential lock when needed it would make a great soft ground machine.

Basically. I can pull five big bolts, a half dozen smaller bolts, and drop any Jacobsen built tractor from the 70s-80s on the chassis.

Actually, it's built to handle anything with a Peerless 2500 rear end.

 

[Mace Canute]

Basically. I can pull five big bolts, a half dozen smaller bolts, and drop any Jacobsen built tractor from the 70s-80s on the chassis.

Actually, it's built to handle anything with a Peerless 2500 rear end.

If anyone is interested in a manual for Peerless trannys have a look here:

http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Te...m_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

 

[Chopperhed]

Bad News.

I finally got it running right, had to drill out the main jet 0,0015". Revs up wonderfully.
Then this happened. Still trying to figure out why.

 

[farm boy00]

Bad News.

I finally got it running right, had to drill out the main jet 0,0015". Revs up wonderfully.
Then this happened. Still trying to figure out why.

<img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/429235-ford-lgt-crawler-conversion-001-jpg"/><img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/build-yourself/429236-ford-lgt-crawler-conversion-002-jpg"/>

By the looks of it your rubber was way to weak going to high idle and ripped apart. If you could get a 1/2"+rubber block in there it might not blow Apart

 

[Chopperhed]

By the looks of it your rubber was way to weak going to high idle and ripped apart. If you could get a 1/2"+rubber block in there it might not blow Apart

Those rubbers normally handle 16hp, this is only a 13hp engine. And this was not the first time I ran it up to full throttle.

The fact that the flywheel nut was off tells me it was something there or in the adapter.

The flywheel is fine, the plastic fan lost pieces out of 5 blades.

The driveshaft flange is bent all to crap. The engine runs fine. The adapter to flywheel bolts are all bent 45 degrees.

It's not the end of the world. But it is frustrating.

 

[farm boy00]

Have you figured out any way to fix it?? Or you just going to leave it alone for a week. One option would be to do a universal joint. You may also need to use loctite on the bolts

 

[Chopperhed]

Currently the plan is to change the motor mount plate, put a pilot bushing in the coupler, get new rubbers, drill and tap the flywheel, and try it again. I'll probably pull the engine today.

 

[Chopperhed]

Well, everything wnet well until it came time to tap the flywheel holes. Unfortunately the tap broke off in the last hole. It figures.

Drove around this morning and got quotes from 120-180 bucks to remove the stuck tap. I went down and bought a new 15hp clone engine for 300.

I'll use the old engine for something that doesn't need the dual PTO.

Picked up material for 8 new rubbers for free

The pilot bushing cost me 15 bucks, enough for two sets.

Should be back in business in a couple of days.

 

[Chopperhed]

Progress

 

[farm boy00]

Progress

Looking mighty fine. Get it running yet?? I think you got the colors perfect

 

[Chopperhed]

Looking mighty fine. Get it running yet?? I think you got the colors perfect

Runs fine, just have to clear the runway