Ford 851 Restore II

[Ford851]

Hello Ford851 again,

I was happily putting my tractor (Ford 851) back together and put in the gas control lever, tightened it down, and it would not turn. So removed the battery box and found a plate of some sort. Seeing that it was dirty and crusty I tried to undo the bolt in the center holding it down to the tractor. The whole stud came out to the top of the tractor housing. Oh, great.

This thing looked like it needed some serious attention. So I thought I would take the bolt out of the center, but couldn't. I oiled where it rotated around the stud. Put grease on upper and lower side of the pad and cleaned the flat part on top of the tractor housing. Then put grease on the housing and put the assembly back together.

It turns, so I hooked the linkage back up.

But I have the sinking feeling something is wrong and I've missed it. It still looks bad because I can't get the castle nut to release from the center stud (the whole stud turns) and that spider looking on top is still not looking terrible.

What is the purpose of this gizmo and how is it suppose to function?

Thanks in advance,
Ford851:confused2:

 

[Dollar Bill]

The "spider" tensions the throttle to maintain the position of the throttle lever.

Sounds like the threads may be stripped in the housing or on the stud. Might be something JB Weld could fix?

 

[Ford851]

By the way, who is jB Weld?

 

[Ford851]

Just wrote a long post and hit "Reply to Thread" and it disappeared" So I'll try again. Great hearing from you Dollar Bell. Its been a long time. Say thanks for the blow up diagram. You have a ll the slick tools. Noticed that my setup doesn't have the spring. I noticed the hole and thought there should be a spring. Where does the other end of the spring attach?
Is there a set tension that should be applied or is it free style? Do people grease the pad that is under the rotating bracket? When I turned the castle nut the nut, spider spring, and pad came up with the stud. The threads are OK. Took a little time to clean pad and metal surfaces. I greased them and put them back. Thinking I should pull the mechanism out free up castle nut. Any great ideas on how to do this? Heat. Double nut. etc.etc. Got tractor wired and dressed them. Charging battery tonight. Looking to fire up shortly. What to get the ol girl running again before I make any more changes.

Thanks again,
Ford851

PS. Hitting "Post Quick Reply" this time. Hope it works

 

[Dollar Bill]

Where does the other end of the spring attach? Connect to a tab on the bottom of the battery box.

Is there a set tension that should be applied or is it free style? Tight enough to hold the position of the throttle lever but loose enough that you can change engine speed easily.

Do people grease the pad that is under the rotating bracket? It's a friction disk and should not be lubricated.

Any great ideas on how to do this? Heat. One of my favorites.

By the way, who is jB Weld? Two part epoxy available at any automotive parts supplier.

 

[Soundguy]

if the casting is stripped out.. I'd drill and tap for a larger fastener.. like a pipe plug.. then redrill and tap oem.. lotsa work.. but good results..

 

[Ford851]

Thanks guys for the insight. I'll remove bracket and clean pad. Assemble again. Try to fid a spring. I have the part # from Dollar Bill's diagram.
Battery is charged. Firing tractor today for first time in almost 4 months.


See ya later,
Ford851

 

[Ford851]

With the info I now have I pulled the battery box again. Unscrewed the tensioner and the stud came out with the castle nut. Placed the assembly i the vise and with my trusty cut off tool ground the castle nut until I could use a cold chisel on it. The chisel and penetrating oil did the job. Got the stud slightly, but not enough to hurt. Purchased a new nut and proceeded to clean up the tractor housing for installation. Now in the process of cleaning and painting the assembly.
About this time the new fuel tank arrived and I couldn't wait to open it. Been waiting for years to have a fuel gauge on my tractor. Well, guess what? The tank is six inches longer than mine and the brackets are wrong. This thing looks like it came of a military tank... Will send it back tomorrow. The people that sold it to me guaranteed me they were interchangeable. Diesel and gas. Just had to plug one hole and it would otherwise bolt right up. Beware is all I can say. My gas tank is 28 1/2 inches long. The diesel is 34 inches long. Just off by 6 inches.

Also the new dash panel came from a salvage yard today. This thing is also made from armor plate. Twice as heavy as the one I have. Had to deep six all the gauges. They were bad. Will send to media blast tomorrow also. The good side is that it has all the correct holes and very little damage to the metal.

Can someone explain to me what the charge indicator lamp is suppose to look like? The one that came with the dash has a 7/8 nut on the back and a collar on the top of the metal. The lens was painted over in red paint. I could not get it off so I drilled it from the back straight thru then used vise grips to hold it while cranking on the nut with a breaker bar. Kinda need a new one.

Well that is all that got done today. The saga continues. One step forward and 3 back

See ya,
Ford851

 

[Soundguy]

gotta love it don't ya.

reminds me of some tin I bought for a9xx tractor off ebay a while back.

pieces came welded together that I had to cut apart. hidden runs and wallowed out holes.. wrong dash.. etc.

keep up the good work!

dash indicator lamp would have been near flush to the dash, had a bezel on top and a reddish lense.. sometimes fades a bit to purple..

 

[Ford851]

Spent most of the day a my local Ford tractor dealer and found that their is only 1 gas tank for the 58 to 64 850 with the 172 cu. in. engine. Fits both diesel and gas. The only difference is that the dealer plugged the leak line when using the tank on gas version. However, the sending unit is different. Different materials used with diesel verses gas.

Although my tractor is an 850 as stamped an should be a 172 cu. in. I want to verify this with the numbers stamped on the engine itself. I'm finding out that tractors like cars aren't always what you were told they are when you bought it. Imagine that!!! If someone has swapped in a 132 cu. in. for the 172 I'm in more trouble than i think I'm in at present. One thing just leads to another and on and on.

Oh, before I forget. How do you clean the fine mesh stuffed in the air inlet for the carb.? And the filter in the oil fill cap? Or do you buy new. Looks like they are built to be cleaned with solvent. Help will be appreciated

Thanks,
Ford851

 

[Soundguy]

there is no 132ci red tiger. there are 134, 144, 172, 192.

the later larger engines went to a larger tank.

I don't doubt that there is only 1 tank being made now. back then.. the smaller / older units used a lower volume tank.. that's why you have to watch what tank you have with what tin you have. the larger.. say.. 861 tank will have fittment problems witht he hood hinges on a 660.. etc.

the oil fill breather cap can be safely cleaned in a parts washer. same witht he media in the oil bath air filter.. many use a 5g bucket and diesel.. etc..


here is some block ID info. it's not all inclusive.. is missing some models and years.. but if you find your info here, it will be what it says it is:

Part number identifiers cast into 134 and 172 engine blocks (lower right side)
EAE 6015 - 134 1953-1957
EAF 6015 - 172 1953-1957
310905 - 134 1958-1959
310609 - 172 1958-1959
B9NN-6015C - 134 late 1959 early 1960
B9NN-6015A - 144D late 1959 early 1960
B9NN6015J - 172 late 1959 early 1960
B9NN6015B - 172D late 1959 early 1960
C0NN-6015G - 134 sleeveless late 1962-1964
C0NN-6015H - 144D late 1960-1964
C0NN-6015C - 172D-G late 1960-1964
C0NN-6015J - 172 late 1960-1964

soundguy

 

[Ford851]

Thanks for the info on the engine numbers. I'll check it out. I assume the right side is the distributor side. Driver facing forward.

I used the 132" from the Ford spec sheet on the tank literature. Assumed it meant cu. in. Thanks for the clarification.

Will report back. Off to see the wizard.

See ya,
Ford851

 

[Soundguy]

right side is the right side.

unless you are from the military.. then it might be your OTHER right side.

 

[Ford851]

Engine markings on the distributor side say EAF-6015 J or EAE-6015 J Hard to tell the E from the F on the rough casting. If I look at the numbers it looks like an F. If I feel the numbers with my finger nail it feels like and E. My eye sight is not what it used to be. Try to get my wife to put the eagle eye on it.

Think the J has any meaning?

Best regards,
Ford851

 

[Ford851]

Anyway this engine has been changed. Its not the 58 to 64 that I thought it was, but a 57 OMG I see a CONN J and a B9NN J and they are both Js
and both 172.

 

[Soundguy]

rub some grease over it, then run a pencil or some wood over it to nock the top of the grese off.. may bring it out. don't worry about the J.. the E / F is what you want to see.. it makes the difference in big or lil engine...

 

[Ford851]

This is the first time in my life that I wanted to get an F. I now clearly see its an F. Its an early 172.

The numbers on the tranny say 850 on top and the numbers under it are too faint to read for me. I'll try the grease trick on them also. Maybe it will improve the contrast.

Thanks,
Ford851

 

[Soundguy]

by the way.. that means you have an 850 not an 851.

not a heck of a lot of difference.. manifold.. carb.. air cleaner.. clutch and pinion spline.. depending.. brake cross shaft setup.. minor hp issue mostly related to carb and manifold.. etc.

for all intentts and purposes.. and 8xx is an 8xx... unless you ae buying parts or pulling on a dyno.

ps.. on them stamped numbers.. try white out or white crayon.. run crayon over to see #'s.. or rub white out on and then smear off.. ..

 

[Ford851]

Great to know about the 850 number. The decals on the side said "851" but even they were wrong. Will the real tractor please stand up.

Anyway, I jury rigged the tractor to fire it up. Had trouble hooking the battery up. The positive terminal sparked big time when I tried to connect it up to the battery. Found out that it was the lead going out to the alternator. Disconnected at the alternator. Cranked it over and nothing. Added a little gas because it had been setting for 4 months. Pulled the choke out, pulled on the gas and she fired the first time.
You can't beat that for reliability. :cool2:

Got some bad news about the diesel gas tank. The nearest person that does this kinda work is 60 miles away and they want 245 dollars US to clean this thing. Say what!!! Does this sound right?

Planning on painting the tractor below the battery cage, waiting till Friday for a part, installing the battery box and battery, installing new 4 post solenoid, and move the tractor to the back for a power wash on the sides and bottom.

Just opened the box for my new proof meter and found out that its for a 4 speed not a 5 speed. It has to go back. Yet another delay. In that time frame I'm going to work on the alternator and why its causing what looks like a grounding problem. This will get me thru the weekend.

Maybe out of touch for awhile. Having intermittent Hughes modem problems. Internet is on the edge.

Best regards,
Ford851

 

[Soundguy]

245$ oh my.

i'd wash it and line it or repair the old one.. or make one if I had to first!

alt line sparked?

either alt has a bad diode.. or the #1 line is hooked up tot he charge line instead of the #2 line hooked to the charge line..