Ford 801 and 2000

   / Ford 801 and 2000 #1  

Eric_Phillips

Platinum Member
Joined
May 16, 2005
Messages
706
Location
Rochester, NY
Tractor
FarmTrac 270DTC
My father-in-law is trying to deal with his brothers estate. Sitting in the field is a Ford 801 and 2000. What would these be worth running vs not running? I am not sure how long they have been sitting there but the seats are rusty otherwise they look like used tractors but not abused. Any sugestions other than checking the fluids and battery before I see if they will start?

Eric
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000 #2  
If you can't determine how long it's been since they've run (assuming they are gas), I'd check the fluids, then pull the plugs and squirt a tablespoon of oil in each cylinder, then roll it over a few times to spread the oil out, and remove excess from the plug hole.

I'd smell the gas and if it smells old, I'd drain and replace it. New fuel filters should be installed too.

Replace plugs, and fire em up. Let em run at idle for a few minutes, watch oil pressure.

Sounds like good to go.

Can't help you with values. A tractor that won't start is a BIG UNKNOWN to folks wanting to buy it. You don't know the condition of the motor or transmission unless it runs. Buyers will discount it a LOT not knowing the condition.

Hope this helps.

Ron
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000 #3  
In addition to what Ronr said.. you need to identify if the 2000 is an old or new model. Old models 2000's are just an update off the 601 series, and still have the 4 cyly 134ci engine. New 2000 had the 3 cyl engine, gas or diesel.

There will be different trans options depending on the specific model... Same with the 801...

801

8 = 172ci gas engine ( unless diesel )
01 = 1958-1962

801 is the series.. you really need the -MODEL- number to determine value. lower model numbers had some economy features like no hyds or no pto.. (821.. etc.. ) 841 is a 4 spd, single stage clutch, 851 & 861 are a 5spd tranny, and 861 has a 2 stage clutch... 851 coul dbe converted to 861 by adding about 13 parts to the tranny/clutch area ). In mid production, the SOS tranny came out.. it was a 10speed powershift.. there were 2 pto options.. so that covers the 871 / 881.

Power steering will also increase price on each unit.

Ironically.. the SOS tranny may devalue the tractor by as much as 25-50%. If it is in good working order.. and all speeds work.. you are LUCKY.. early units were a nightmare, and earned them a bad name.. even though later units were more or less solid.. if maintained and kept clean.. etc.

The 801 will have its 3 digit model number stamped on the bellhousing right side.. plus a sn. I can date it to the year, and guess at the month for you with the sn and model number.

The 2000 will have unit code, production code, and a sn on t's bellhousing. I can date it to the time of day it was built ( morning, day, night shift ) and tell you chassie, tranny and axle options with those codes.

If the units are gas, take a points file with you, or a piece of 800 or 1000 sand paper, and a piece of brown paper grocery sack.. pull the sand paper thru the points once on each contact, then pull the sack back and forth while gently holding the poitns closed.

If the oil looks good.. do as ronr said.. the oil in the cyls gives pre-lube and raises the compression slightly.

If the carb float needle is stuck ( common ) take start fluid with you.. if she hits on start fluid.. but not the carb.. it will need a carb cleaning.

Keep in mind that 6v systems were positive ground.. and diesels were 12v negative ground. Most likely the thousand series is 12v.. but do count the cells on the battery.

There will need to be battery power to fire the points ignition system. If it is a 6v system.. put it on charge... at least enough so that yuo can turnt he key on and get power to the points, and then use a 12v truck battery and jump directly to the starter ( out of gear and clutch blocked down ).

If no 6v charger, disconnect charge wire from vr, and remove 6v battery and drop in your truck 12v battery and check it out. The points and coil will last for short periods of time on 12v while you check her out.

Old fords are my passion.

post or email back for more info.

Soundguy
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Soundguy,
Thanks for that information. I can't wait to get back out there and take another look at those tractors. I will let you know what numbers I find.

Eric
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Soundguy,
I got the information about those tractors. The 801 is an 871 SN 133765. It does have select-o-speed. The 2000 had the numbers 21201 and 56637. I have posted pictures of them at http://home.rochester.rr.com/ekphillips/old_tractor/index.htm Any info you can give me about them and what value they might have running or not would be great. I think the 871 was running a couple years ago. The 2000 has some rust on the hydraulic pistons for the steering. Would either of these really be able to pull a three bottom plow? The plow is also in those pictures. It is a Ford 101 plow.

Thanks,
Eric
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000 #6  
The 2000 appears to be an old 4 cyl gas model.. and that means it has a 134ci engine like a naa. 600/601 series. The sn on a 65 model will have a "C" in front of it.. so I guess that is a late 64 model.

Some ford lit shows a 134ci pulling 3 bottoms.. But I figure it will only do it in sand.. under good conditions, and a small plow.. like 12's

Now.. the 871 has a 172ci eng, if gas, and a bit more hp. I've seen 8xx and 9xx pull 3 bottoms fairly decently. A 8xx is a predecesor to the early 4 cyl 4000 model.

The SOS makes it dicey, as you really need to know if the SOS operates or is having problems. A running 871 with a bad SOS is just a 'engine' waiting for a new trans... I've seen SOS trans rebuilds go from 1200 to 2500.. though somethimes it is a 5$ part and clean oil, and some adjustments too. The 871 will have a single speed pto.. an 881 would have had a dual speed pto.

By sn.. that is an early 61 model.


The 2000 must be a 63/64 model, as my code chart shows a 2000 like that one probably is as having a number like:
21022a Ie, 2000, ag/all purpose chassie, gas, and 540 prans pto and a 4spd... though the trans options could be different.. etc..

Price?

for the 2000, if it runs.. it will fetch in the 2000-3500 range.. non running? perhaps 1000 if complete, loose, and straight.. 700-800 if it has major flaws.. 400-800 for a parter, and 0-300 for a crusty rusty or burned unit...

On the 871.. if it starts but won't crawl.. you pretty much just have an engine and a big question mark. That should be good for about 800-1000$ , as you either gotta drop a rebuilt sos in it for ? 2k$.. or get a 5spd for it.. etc... for a few bucks less. Best deal would be for a person with a blown engine to buy it for parts.

If it crawls good.. then it's vallue will jump up in the 2500-4000 range..

Soundguy
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Soundguy,
Thanks for the info. My father-in-law said one of the tractors was running about two years ago. Since the 871 has new tires on it and an old brush hog hooked up I am assuming it was that one. Both of the tractors are 4 cyl. gas. I guess I will try to convince my wife to let me bring the 871 home and see if it will pull hte three bottom. It sounds like my 27hp FarmTrac wont do it with out pulling one of the bottoms off. The whole thing is a little dicy since the estate has a lot of debt so they need to get some money out of this stuff and I am not being given much latitude to help relieve the debt. I'll post some more pictures if I can get them pulled out of the weeds and running. Thanks for your help.

Eric
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000 #8  
Even up.. they are worth similar monies. The 2000 being the old 4cyl.. cuts it's value since it has a 33hp 134ci engine.. whereas the 871 has the more powerfull 4 cyl 172ci engine.. however it is saddled with an 'iffy' transmission.. though.. if it works good in all ranges.. chances are it will stay that way... and it has an independent pto..e tc.

Instead of a clutch the 871 will have an inching pedal.. also.. if it won't run .. you won't be able to 'roll' it, as the tranny is locked down when not running. If you have to winch it up on a trailer, there isa traction disconnect rare of the tranny, where it joins the rear end. Each model was a little different.. but in essence, you are uncoupling the tranny output shaft from the diffy pinion.. etc..

If it is a money issue.. I'll bet that the 871 in running condition might fetch more money by being parted... Operating SOS trans and parts go for good money... though if the trans works, i wouldn't part it.. I'd sell it whole.. You could probably double the tractors purchase price by selling the trans as a unit.. if it works.. then selling the engine.. then selling the rear section..

I hate parting working tractor out though...

Soundguy

Soundguy
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000 #9  
Speaking of a 2000,(i think) there is one on ebay, fixing to end. The current high bidder is me, but reserve hasn't been met. It can be bought for what I have bid on it, but I am going to pass. I just decided I didn't want to start another project.
For the interested few, the two rear tires (8.3-24 ) are cracking, but holding air. The front is also, with one flat. It has 4 sparkplugs and is a model 20311 with a serial 166378.
I have the contact information (phone) if anyone is interested. The reserve is only $50 more than I bid, but it can be bought for my bid. Seller seems motivated to get rid of it.

The mower is a 5 footer.




http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270015604821&sspagename=ADME:B:CMB:US:1

David from jax
 
   / Ford 801 and 2000 #10  
That seems like a good deal on ebay. Wish I had the extra cash.
 
 
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