Ford 532 baler issue

[interdeere]

Guys I need some expertise ...my 532 Ford baler has recently been breaking twine I think at the needles. I have made sure twine is not binding anywhere and I can’t even make 10 bales without it happening. When I bought it it had blue nylon twine and baled great then I switched to orange nylon and baled terrible so I switched to sisal twine and worked better but now like I said it won’t make 10 bales without breaking. Any insight would be great. Thanks

 

[aczlan]

Which sisal twine are you using? We have had issues with the 9000 twine and I've had much better luck with the 7200 twine.
Have you greased the knotters? The ones on our New Holland are very sensitive to over greasing.

Aaron Z

 

[interdeere]

I’m using the 9000 and it had been greased last time it was used and only baled 76 bales that time

 

[zzvyb6]

Give me a better description of "breaking twine".

One twine or both ?

The pullout force from the twine box should be about 10 lbs. (each one).

The twine guides at the needle frame sometimes get grooved out and develop sharp edges.

The needle eyes have little pulleys that seize up and get sharpened.

The twine is mis-threaded from the twine box to the twine disks.

That's just for starters. The 9000 is most likely the proper twine for square bales. Plastic takes different friction settings at the twine box and bill-hooks than sisal. (10 lbs pull-out force measure with fish scale).

Or are you really loosing the knot after the knotter drive trips? (That's another sequencing problem altogether).

Stay with us. We will get you going.

 

[oldnslo]

years and years ago we had a 520 Ford where one knotter would start not tying or breaking the twine. Only solution we found that worked was to pour a little diesel fuel over the knotter and go bale hay. I have absolutely no clue what the diesel fuel did but for us it worked. It was always the same knotter and usually every 1000 -1200 bales it would act up. Had the baler for close to 10 years with it working this way.

 

[interdeere]

Give me a better description of "breaking twine".

One twine or both ?

The pullout force from the twine box should be about 10 lbs. (each one).

The twine guides at the needle frame sometimes get grooved out and develop sharp edges.

The needle eyes have little pulleys that seize up and get sharpened.

The twine is mis-threaded from the twine box to the twine disks.

That's just for starters. The 9000 is most likely the proper twine for square bales. Plastic takes different friction settings at the twine box and bill-hooks than sisal. (10 lbs pull-out force measure with fish scale).

Or are you really loosing the knot after the knotter drive trips? (That's another sequencing problem altogether).

Stay with us. We will get you going.

I’m not sure how to better describe it but when it happens the twine is still under the hay bale it’s just out of the needle. And it’s been happening mostly on the left side but it did do it to me once or twice on the right side as well. So maybe I’m missing something but I’m just not sure how if the twine is breaking it would still be under the bale unless it’s breaking part way in tying mode. The hay was also pretty tough but rain was in the forecast

 

[interdeere]

years and years ago we had a 520 Ford where one knotter would start not tying or breaking the twine. Only solution we found that worked was to pour a little diesel fuel over the knotter and go bale hay. I have absolutely no clue what the diesel fuel did but for us it worked. It was always the same knotter and usually every 1000 -1200 bales it would act up. Had the baler for close to 10 years with it working this way.

Anything is worth a try cause a baler that won’t bale sure is frustrating!

 

[zzvyb6]

Can you post a picture of the situation? Twine "under the bale" could be a number of causes. A pic from the top side and bottom side would be a good start. Can you easily pull twine out of the bale box ? Since both knotters are affected, the old 'tucker finger' issue crops up. A pic of the ends of the mis-tied knot would also help. Is there a knot but only on one end ? Does the twine look like it was ripped or shreaded ? Answers to these questions will lead to a root cause,

I don't recommend the diesel fuel approach, it makes the hay taste pretty awful.

 

[interdeere]

Can you post a picture of the situation? Twine "under the bale" could be a number of causes. A pic from the top side and bottom side would be a good start. Can you easily pull twine out of the bale box ? Since both knotters are affected, the old 'tucker finger' issue crops up. A pic of the ends of the mis-tied knot would also help. Is there a knot but only on one end ? Does the twine look like it was ripped or shreaded ? Answers to these questions will lead to a root cause,

I don't recommend the diesel fuel approach, it makes the hay taste pretty awful.

Right now I do not have a picture but it looks like a clean-cut no sign of any knot

 

[aczlan]

Did it look like these?





Aaron Z

 

[interdeere]

No there was just 2 ends like twine was just cut

 

[aczlan]

No there was just 2 ends like twine was just cut

So it is not tieing at all? Take a look at this list: http://polyexcel.com/TroubleShoot.pdf




Aaron Z

 

[interdeere]

So it is not tieing at all? Take a look at this list: http://polyexcel.com/TroubleShoot.pdf


View attachment 567007

Aaron Z

That helps a little just need to dry run it to see if what’s not working

 

[52wej]

Check to be sure both knotters have the same degree of tension in the springs. Use the "good" side as your reference point. From what I remember of our 532 you can unbolt one bolt and the knotter will pivot on the main cam shaft. This will allow you to look underneath and check for any blockages or grass caught in the knotter. Also how tight are you making your bales? if the hay is too damp or you have the bale chamber tension set too high it will not tie properly. I know our baler probably baled over 120,000 bales during the many years we had it, but we periodically would have to spend a bit of time making sure the knotters were adjusted identically. Putting a but of diesel fuel may not be as far fetched as it sounds, especially if the baler has not been used for some time. Do you have the manual to your baler? That gives many good suggestions and settings. The polyexcel chart is also excellent. And for what it is worth, our 532 would never tie the plastic or poly twine at all. It was too slick. We always just used the sisal twine. Good Luck. W. Jones

 

[interdeere]

Thanks for all the input, now I値l look for a manual and try a few things and see if I can make it tie