FORD 5000 Diesel Information

[300smag]

Hi folks ! I have a new tractor to me. Looking to get some information on it and have been digging. Tractor has been sitting since parked under it's own power for about 5 years. It was parked due to the clutch being weak and water in the cylinders. When run it smoked . I'm told he thinks it's a 1968. I'm trying to tell if it has the 233 or 256 cu in ? I would like to get as much information on the tractor as possible. Good and bad. Most durable engine and tranny combo. Things to look out for etc. This is how the tractor has been setting. Thanks !

 

[RickB]

If it has threaded frost plugs it’s a 233.

 

[300smag]

Tht's what it looks like to me. I also think the factory canister style filter implies that its a 233 also.

 

[300smag]

An update to this thread ... The tractor is home now. I have found some great information on this model in the meantime. I am going to try and post pics of the progress as I get it ready for work. Hard to say at this point what all it will need. This tractor seems to be a 1968 and has a 233ci diesel before mid year going to the 256ci diesel. Can anyone help on this pic of the id tag ? I have only found info on the model #.

 

[japody]

Here's a site that decodes your tractors' numbers:

FORD CODES and SERIAL NUMBERS

 

[Gale Hawkins]

That that tractor looks nice and the injector pump, oil filter, etc is similar to our 1966 3000 Ford.

Did the water cause the pistons to seize or will the engine turn?

 

[300smag]

Thanks Gale , I'm thrilled. I have not tried to turn the motor yet ... I did notice that the oil looks really clean and is full. The coolant is near full in radiator , looks clean and green. I have given some thought as to what I am told about the tractor , that the head gasket leaked and needed a new clutch. I think I'm gonna try to get it running so I can determine for myself what the work needing done should be.

 

[300smag]

The head gasket issue has me wondering if a cavitation erosion issue could be the case. I know it was used to care for horses and clear snow. Another thought , what is considered the best transmission in this model. I have the 8 speed 2R . I know that reverse is either slow or fast with this one . The selectospeed can be expensive to fix. There was dual power. Later they added synchromesh. What is most durable and has good parts availability ?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Thanks Gale , I'm thrilled. I have not tried to turn the motor yet ... I did notice that the oil looks really clean and is full. The coolant is near full in radiator , looks clean and green. I have given some thought as to what I am told about the tractor , that the head gasket leaked and needed a new clutch. I think I'm gonna try to get it running so I can determine for myself what the work needing done should be.

Not sure what I would do? You might consider pulling the injectors and if coolant was getting into a cylinder or more the injector tip may show signs of it. You could add some oil with the injectors out and use the starter to bring up the oil pressure vs a long dry start.

If coolant every got in the crank case dropping the pan and replacing rod and main bearings could save the engine if the crank did not take on any damage.

 

[300smag]

Not sure what I would do? You might consider pulling the injectors and if coolant was getting into a cylinder or more the injector tip may show signs of it. You could add some oil with the injectors out and use the starter to bring up the oil pressure vs a long dry start.

If coolant every got in the crank case dropping the pan and replacing rod and main bearings could save the engine if the crank did not take on any damage.

I think that is sound advice. I do not see any sign of coolant in oil. Pulling the injectors seems best angle. I have a buddy that has a little camera ... I'd like to get some oil in cylinders before turning it over also. If there is cylinder damage , I know the block has to be pulled being a parent bore , not what i'm hoping for , haha