Price Check Ford 4630 or 3930

[ah64_ip29]

Well, I've been looking around in circles for the last year, older tractor, newer tractor, bigger, smaller, and have come to something in the middle. I've decided I want 4x4, at least a shuttle shift for loader work, and about 50hp (about 2000lb lift with loader). It seems the most reasonable tractors in cost that meet that criteria are the 90s Fords, either the 4630 or 3930.

They both came with 192ci 3 cyl diesels, have an 84.5 in wheelbase, weigh just over 5000lbs, available in an 8x8trans with shuttle shift, have 8 gpm valve flow, and have the same size rear wheels 13.6-28. What is the difference between these tractors?

I'm currently looking at 2 3930s without loaders with ROPS and canopy ($10K and $13K(w/7' bush hog))(non dealer owned) and a 4630 with a loader ROPS $13.5K (dealership). I think on all 3 the hour meter is broken, so I don't really know have many hours they have, though the 3930 with $13K is estimated at 1700hours.

The 3930 for 10K may have a key switch problem. Unfortunately, they are all about 4 hours from me, in different directions, but plan to pick one to look at this weekend, probably the 4630 w/loader, since adding a loader will cost at least $5K.

I'll check the oil, rad fluid, PTO shaft for play, make sure it operates and shifts into all gears, check the lift on back. Anything special I need to look at on these?

Is this about the right price range for a 4x4 with 8x8 trans w/shuttle?

As always thanks for the help.

 

[sweettractors]

Quote: a 4630 with a loader ROPS $13.5K (dealership) Quote:


Sounds better than the other 2, however, they all need to be checked out thoroughly. After it runs for about 15 minutes, you want no grey smoke upon acceleration, no blowby at the bottom breather pipe. The 3 point should be able to lift 1500 lbs and then some. Check all gears. Put in a high forward gear, hold on both brakes and open wide open and slowly let the clutch out. The tractor should stall completely out. If it slips the clutch is out of adjustment or out completely. Move some heavy stuff around with the loader. Tires should be 75 % or better (they are getting real expensive to replace nowadays) I would want to keep a eye on the oil pressure as it gets hotter. Ken Sweet

 

[Soundguy]

I'd hope the 3pt lifts a whole lot more than 1500#,, my 1920 was specced at something like 1800#

figure closer to about 3000-3100# for those models 3pt lift. also.. the 4630 is about 60 engine / 55 pto.. and the 3930 about 50 engine, 45 pto

soundguy

 

[sweettractors]

I'd hope the 3pt lifts a whole lot more than 1500#,, my 1920 was specced at something like 1800#

figure closer to about 3000-3100# for those models 3pt lift. also.. the 4630 is about 60 engine / 55 pto.. and the 3930 about 50 engine, 45 pto

soundguy

It will lift more if all is right. When I test drive a tractor on a dealers lot, I try to find a 3000-4000 pound tractor with front weight box and I back 1 lift arm under the front of the tractor and gently try to raise the front of the tractor. If it lifts, it passes. Just don't let the dealer see you doing this Ken Sweet

 

[ah64_ip29]

Is the 3930 and 4630 built on the same frame? Is the TN New Holland series, like the TN65 a completely different animal?

 

[Jerry/MT]

Well, I've been looking around in circles for the last year, older tractor, newer tractor, bigger, smaller, and have come to something in the middle. I've decided I want 4x4, at least a shuttle shift for loader work, and about 50hp (about 2000lb lift with loader). It seems the most reasonable tractors in cost that meet that criteria are the 90s Fords, either the 4630 or 3930.

They both came with 192ci 3 cyl diesels, have an 84.5 in wheelbase, weigh just over 5000lbs, available in an 8x8trans with shuttle shift, have 8 gpm valve flow, and have the same size rear wheels 13.6-28. What is the difference between these tractors?

I'm currently looking at 2 3930s without loaders with ROPS and canopy ($10K and $13K(w/7' bush hog))(non dealer owned) and a 4630 with a loader ROPS $13.5K (dealership). I think on all 3 the hour meter is broken, so I don't really know have many hours they have, though the 3930 with $13K is estimated at 1700hours.

The 3930 for 10K may have a key switch problem. Unfortunately, they are all about 4 hours from me, in different directions, but plan to pick one to look at this weekend, probably the 4630 w/loader, since adding a loader will cost at least $5K.

I'll check the oil, rad fluid, PTO shaft for play, make sure it operates and shifts into all gears, check the lift on back. Anything special I need to look at on these?

Is this about the right price range for a 4x4 with 8x8 trans w/shuttle?

As always thanks for the help.

I have an '82 4610, the predecessor to the 4630 with 1800 original hours on it that I use on the ranch. I paid $11,000 for it in 1999 with 1100 hrs on it.Then sheet metal was as staright as a new machine. I added an EzeeOn Loader in 2001 that I paid like $2700 back then and I installed it myself. It has a ROPS and I added a Perry Canopy. It also has 2 rear remotes. It has been a trouble free machine and and doses all the heavy work on our ranch. I would not part with it for any less than $16,000.
If you can get a "good" 4630 ("good" being defined by the performance tests outlined by Mr. Sweet and Soundguy) with a loader and 4WD for $13,500, go for it. I'm always suspicious fo the nonfunctioning hr meters but you can examine the machine and if the loder pins are sloppy and the 3 point hitch is plum wore out, pedals show a lot of wear, etc you can tell that the tractor has high hours. Everybody worries about the engines but the transmission and the final drive is more expensive to repair than anything else on the tractor so pay particular attention to that.
good Luck in your search.

 

[Soundguy]

Is the 3930 and 4630 built on the same frame? Is the TN New Holland series, like the TN65 a completely different animal?

completely different animal.. the 4 digit units that came out before any of the 'T' series were good old heavy duty iron with metal hoods.. etc. fast forward a bit and you get these fiberglass encased jobs..

soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

It will lift more if all is right. When I test drive a tractor on a dealers lot, I try to find a 3000-4000 pound tractor with front weight box and I back 1 lift arm under the front of the tractor and gently try to raise the front of the tractor. If it lifts, it passes. Just don't let the dealer see you doing this Ken Sweet

I have done that many times using my truck or the rear of my trailer as a test weight.. yep.. the dealers don't like to see that either

soundguy

 

[ah64_ip29]

I've added pics of the 4630 (a picture is worth a thousand words, as they say).

 

[sweettractors]

I've added pics of the 4630 (a picture is worth a thousand words, as they say).

I love it. If it runs out as good as it looks, you have a winner. Don't let that trim ring being broke around the right front headlight hold you back Ken Sweet

 

[Soundguy]

better than I expected it to look.

soundguy

 

[jimmysisson]

Looks like it was treated decent and not beat on. If it's the right size for you, go for it. Keep it indoors, and it will look the same in 10 years.
Jim

 

[RickB]

Nice looking tractor, but you should know the following:

A 4630 with a single hydraulic pump will make for somewhat slow loader operation.
A 7310 loader is a low-spec loader for a 4630, a full frame 7410HD is more appropriate for a 4630 MFD, at least around here. Inspect the front bolster carefully for cracks, around the bolts to the engine block, and at the corners of the relief just above the front axle. Inspect the front mount flanges on the engine block for cracks, specifically look for a crack starting near the front of the oilpan rail and extending diagonally up to a point above the lower front bolster mount. Make sure the front axle center section has oil in it, the rear trunnion seal is weak and a chronic leak point.

 

[tractorsanmore]

Is the 3930 and 4630 built on the same frame?

Yes , only difference that I know of is the 4630 has 10 more hp out of the same engine .

 

[RickB]

Is the 3930 and 4630 built on the same frame?

Yes , only difference that I know of is the 4630 has 10 more hp out of the same engine .

Typically, a 4630 has bigger rubber than a 3930. But not always.

Trivia question;

How many of you know that the 8x8 mechanical shuttle transmission was outsourced from Kubota?

 

[JC-jetro]

How many of you know that the 8x8 mechanical shuttle transmission was outsourced from Kubota?

Rick,

I could not guess if my life depended on it Is it just inside information or was it ever advertised?

JC,

 

[ah64_ip29]

It was hard to find any specs on the 7310 or 7410 loaders at all. The only 2 things I found suggested that the 7310 has either a 2035 or 2200 pound lift capacity.

It's being advertised as a 1990, but it says turbo on the side and the serial number they are listing is 12548009342 which by tractordata.com would be maybe in the 1999 time frame. I thought I saw another post that said the turbo wasn't used until 96 or 98 or something...

 

[ah64_ip29]

I was able to look at and drive the 4630 today. I'll post pics later this evening of each area when I get home.
Seems to be relatively leak free. There was some evidence of oil at the rear of the oil pan and on the clutch cover on the front of the trans. I hope it is not a rear main seal leak.
Some evidence of oil at the intake hoses coming from the turbo.
It passed the power on, in high gear, brakes on, clutch out test. The clutch didn't show any signs of slipping, it just killed the tractor as I slowly let the clutch out.
I wasn't able to lift anything with the rear lift, but I seemed to operate fine. The PTO cycled on and off with the handle. The PTO shaft did move in and out enough that you could feel it move - in observation it appeared to be about 1/32nd of an inch or less.
Radiator was not quite full, but fluid looked good. Oil looked okay.
Loader readily lifted tractor. Joystick control worked well. The major pins didn't seem to have any wear or slop. However, the joint on the side bracket did move with pressure. There were only 2 bolts on each side and appeared there should have been a third bolt. I looked at the attachment points and case all around the bottom joint areas and didn't see any evidence of cracks.
There was no evidence of play in the steering arm joints, though the boots were all dry rotted and broken.
The engine seemed to run fine. I don't really know how much vibration to expect from these machines by experience. There happened to be a resonant vibration in the floor boards right at the PTO mark on the tach. It would go away above and below that RPM. It only showed a little evidence of black smoke when first started and when increasing the throttle rapidly. The turbo seemed to spool up nicely when turning or as the load increased up a slight incline.
I ran it out in all gears, H-L, 1-4 and used the shuttle shift to go forward and back, then went through them again in 4WD. Unfortunately, I was only able to operate on pavement and I not convinced I did a good check on 4WD. The drive train seemed to make a little more noise in 4WD, Hi in the upper gears, going fast, but not more than I might have expected from my experience with military vehicles from 1/2 to 5 Tons. The brakes worked and would allow me to steer slightly even on the pavement.
The tires are a little dry, and the right rear definitely has at least one patch in it.
The hydraulic hoses are dry rotted for the most part, but don't seem to be leaking.
The seat is all torn, but was mounted on a nice suspension unit of some type. It moved up and down softly, but maybe the hydraulic part of it needs some service (there may have been some air in it by the sound).
The light worked in the front. The dash instruments seemed to work, except the hour meter, of course. There are 4 lights along the bottom. Only 3 lit up. The 3rd one didn't light. What should it be? I wish I had taken a picture of it with the 3 lights on. I forget what the first one was. The second was like an arrow pointing down with a line across it. The far right looked like a crank case with a rod, which I assumed to be oil pressure. Once it started all the lights went right out. The temp gauge on the right seemed to work and only climbed mid range into the green and stayed there during my 20-30 minutes or so of operation, and the fuel gauge on the left showed empty (what do you expect from a dealership).
I was surprised that it had a Carrerro front axle. For some reason I thought that was only used earlier on, like in a 6600.
He quoted me a $13.2K price. What do you think? (I think they are quite confident they can sell it, they have gotten interest from a buyer in Ohio)

 

[sweettractors]

From what you have described, I don't see any red flags. It is not that uncommon to get a drip occasionally at the bell housing area on most tractors with some hours on them. The other things you mention are basically minor issues. Ken Sweet

 

[RickB]

Three engine indicator lamps is all you get with an ag tractor instrument cluster. Oil pressure, air cleaner restriction, and charging system. The fourth is either unused, trans presure with 4x4 power reversing (torque converter) transmissions in Industrial tractors, or in some instances, headlight high beam indicator.