Ford 4630 Hydraulic Questions:

[straightsix240]

Hello all:


I've got a Ford 4630 with a Bush Hog brand 2425QT Loader and a 3rd function valve for remote hydraulics on the rear of the tractor.

The 3rd function valve has a history of blowing out the o-ring seals when under a load, so the previous owner told me. Just yesterday when the tractor was still cold and I scooped up a light load of wood chips with the frond end loader, I heard a small 'pop' and saw fluid running out the side of the 3rd function valve.

Why would this valve have a tendency to blow out the seals?

How, or can I, fix this?

I don't need the 3rd function valve right now, so would it be easier to just remove the valve for now? How would I cover the holes over the trans case on the tractor?

Any advice about this would be greatly appreciated.

I might want to add a 3rd function valve to the front end of this tractor in the future, to run a grapple, if that changes what I might do here.


Thank you!
David Hammond

 

[J_J]

Show a picture of your 3rd function.

In a 3rd function valve setup, you should be able to take the INPUT hose and the OUT hose and connect them together.

 

[straightsix240]

That's exactly what I thought, but when I went to do that, I found out the 3rd function valve is open to the trans/case of the tractor. There are 9 O-rings between the tractor and an aluminum plate with holes in it, then 9 more O-rings between the al. plate and the valve. I know almost nothing about hydraulics, so maybe my terminology isn't correct.

Here's a link to a picture like my 3rd valve:

Ford Tractor Auxiliary Hydraulic Valve

And this is the aluminum adaptor plate with the O-rings:

Ford Tractor Hydraulic Adapter Kit - HP267600

Thanks JJ.

David

 

[J_J]

There are many kinds of 3rd function valves.

A 3rd function valve is any valve that performs a hyd function, be it a solenoid or a lever type valve.

Your 3rd function appears to be tractor specific to your tractor model or a series of tractors might use the same kit.

From looking at your kit, it might be difficult to remove and block off the ports .

Why do you want to remove the 3rd function. You don't have to use it for anything is particular, do you.

If the valve completes the hyd circuit and doesn't leak, then I would just leave it in place.

 

[straightsix240]

Well, my problem is this 3ed valve is leaking terribly. I traded my neighbor some work for this tractor and he said it has a tendency to blow out the seals in this valve, which it did about three days ago. Why would a valve like this tend to blow out the seals?

I don't want to get rid of the valve, I may want to use it in the future, I just thought I might be able to temporarily bypass it until I could really get it fixed, but with it open to the trans, I don't know what I need to do.

David

 

[straightsix240]

Anybody got any ideas why this valve blows the o-rings out occasionally? Do I need some sort of pressure relief valve in the system to protect the o-ring seals?

 

[J_J]

The valve may be seeing more pressure than it is designed for.

Should something block the flow from a hyd pump and the relief can't handle the relief pressure, something will happen, be it a blown hose, valve cracked, pump exploded, etc. You might install a pressure gage in the hyd system and monitor the pressures.

Sometimes hyd systems generate high spikes, much higher that the norm.

Perhaps a manual for the hyd would help.

 

[Tx Jim]

If I'm understanding(guessing) the correct place of the hyd leak Plate #13 is used when tractor has no remote valves. Are you replacing the seals(o-rings) with the correct parts(parts key #42 2nd photo)??

 

[Harry in Ky]

You already have a relief valve built into the pump. It should be set at about 2500 psi. As for the leak; a couple things come to mind. Your picture shows a power beyond block (which I assume is under the spool valve) with three ports. These blocks are supplied with only two ports as well, the two port style requiring a separate sump return of your choosing. Is yours a two or three port block? Another thing is the size of the orings under the spool valve and how good a match they are to the size of the machined spaces they fit into. One more thing is the length of the mounting bolts. When adding custom parts such as these, the bolts need to be the correct length to assure the valve bodies are tight. If one or more of the bolts is so much as one thread too long, the bolt can bottom out and feel tight but not supply the compression needed.

 

[ETpilot]

I have a 4610 and I installed a similar hydraulic manifold, different part number, to feed my FEL valve.

You need to get the installation instructions for your manifold assemby and verify that your installation is proper. The instructions for my installation cautions that I had to use a 3 port valve with power beyond. Use of a 2 port valve, which appears what you are using, would cause pressurization of the valve whenever the 3PH is used. This would lead to valve leakage and possibly valve housing failure. This may be your problem. The manifold is installed after the hyraulic pump and before the 3PH.

When I remove my FEL, I connect a hose between the pressure and return ports going to the manifold. It has worked fine for many years with no issues.

Get the installation instructions and verify your installation is correct.