Ford 4610 SU power steering leak

[swamp duck]

My neighbor has a 4610, and we're trying to fix a leak on the top of the steering box. We replaced the top seal twice, and the shaft looks good. On closer inspection, the fluid is not leaking around the seal but out of some holes in the splined part of the shaft where a pin goes through it. None of the parts diagrams I can find show that pin, or the small shaft inside the splined shaft. Somehow fluid must be coming up through the inside of the shaft and out those holes, which are above the top seal. Does anybody have any experience with this problem? Do you know of a diagram showing what's inside that shaft assembly? Thanks!

 

[Soundguy]

Ultradog messes with them power steering setups quote a bit, he may be able to help you.

Rickb is another smart guy that works with NH's and probably knows as well.

good luck and welcome to TBN

 

[Jerry/MT]

I had a leak at the stop of the steering column on my 4610. I changed out the steering pump filter and it quit. I think the filter was clogged causing the pump pressure to rise and that forced oil past the upper shaft seal.

 

[swamp duck]

Thanks for the comments!

The tractor i am working on is a 4610su .It has arms on both sides with cylinders on each one. The steering sector has a outer splined outer shaft coming out of the top,with a smaller inner shaft in it .It's held together by a 1/4 inch pin in a hole near the top.The fluid is leaking from between the inner and outer shaft. Neither I nor the tractor dealership can find a parts diagram that shows and inner and outer shaft. As far as I know, there is no filter on this tractor. I found some hard to read numbers on the tractor C733972 model D53140 the best I can read. It's a three hour trip to the tractor dealer,been there twice with this problem and I still have the leak.

 

[TractorTech]

I remember the setup on the sector of this unit that you are talking about. In the attached diagram, I believe the oring #53, is the item that is leaking.


The other problem on this setup are the seals, 15 & 15b that can cause leakage at the top, but not in the way that you describe. When they leak, though, it does push oil past the top seal that you have replaced already. The shaft seals, 15 & 15b should probably be replaced when you have it apart. Also a good idea to get an extra seal when replacing as they can be a little difficult to get on the shaft.

 

[Birdhunter1]

I just rebuilt that entire column Tractortech posted, seals #15 and 15B..... place them in warm water (just below boiling temp) for approx 10 minutes and they become stretchy,stretch them over the shaft into place then wrap them in a plastic strip cut off an oil jug and wrap a hose clamp on it. They will shrink back into spec size.

That O ring 53 might fix it, but likely seals 15 are also leaking. Tearing into that column to replace all those seals is a tedious task, but doable with a detailed methodical approach.

 

[TractorTech]

I just rebuilt that entire column Tractortech posted, seals #15 and 15B..... place them in warm water (just below boiling temp) for approx 10 minutes and they become stretchy,stretch them over the shaft into place then wrap them in a plastic strip cut off an oil jug and wrap a hose clamp on it. They will shrink back into spec size.

That O ring 53 might fix it, but likely seals 15 are also leaking. Tearing into that column to replace all those seals is a tedious task, but doable with a detailed methodical approach.

Thanks Birdhunter1 for this post. I agree with you that those are most likely the cause. Great explanation of procedure. I haven't had the time to get the manual, but the procedure on the #15 seals are what I was going to look up as they are not elastic.

 

[Birdhunter1]

EACH of those #15 seals are $20 at the New Holland dealer too, so be careful.

The rubber seal also needs to be warmed up in water and stretch in place. I setup a Coleman propane stove and used a piece of wire to hang the seals and keep them off the bottom of my coffee kettle, set it up on the bench next to where I was working.

FYI.... read the entire overhaul paragraphs in the service manual multiple times, there is a little bit of very helpful information in there on getting things back together.

 

[Soundguy]

I setup a Coleman propane stove and used a piece of wire to hang the seals and keep them off the bottom of my coffee kettle, .

reminds me of using a coffee can and a plumbers torch to warm water to heat gear shifter boots and hyd piston backup leather rings i was installing on a ford tractor..

 

[Birdhunter1]

reminds me of using a coffee can and a plumbers torch to warm water to heat gear shifter boots and hyd piston backup leather rings i was installing on a ford tractor..

Sounds about right. I was fairly nervous prepping everything to do this, in my mind I am thinking '$80 worth of plastic I am going to screw up right here' but about 2 hours operation on the tractor so far and not sign of oil anywhere, no apparent loss of oil in the level inside the pump case and steers great.

I will admit when I piped it all back together I had to reroute one line from the pump when I set the fuel tank back in place. Apparently I forgot to tighten that line because when I started it up I had alot of oil flowing and at first thought 'crap gonna have to take it apart again.' My dad noticed the line being loose and pointed it out to me.