Ford 4000 Industrial

[dynahog]

I am new so forgive me for incorrect etiquette. I just bought a Ford 4000 industrial tractor with the select-to-matic transmission, the four cylinder gas engine with the front loader and rear back hoe (series 723). Does anyone know the correct fluids for this tractor? For the power steering, hydraulics, tranny, differential? Any help would prove invaluable. Finding it difficult to pin down the year on the Ford. Runs perfect though with only 2100 hours.....

 

[RickB]

New Holland 134D hydraulic oil or its equivalent everywhere but in the engine crankcase and oil bath air cleaner. Use your choice of 30W, 10W30, or 15W-40 in the engine and air cleaner, dependent on your climate.

 

[Soundguy]

check the trans bellhousing aft of the starter to get serial number and date code / model id number.

post them

soundguy

 

[dynahog]

To Soundguy! I have searched diligently but cannot come up with a serial #. I have found the model # I believe which is as follows. 41304. on the engine casing it has the #/letter 6015J
Hope this will help you lead me the the correct fluids..
Is it possible that the power steering could use universal hyd. fluid?

 

[RickB]

To Soundguy! I have searched diligently but cannot come up with a serial #. I have found the model # I believe which is as follows. 41304. on the engine casing it has the #/letter 6015J
Hope this will help you lead me the the correct fluids..
Is it possible that the power steering could use universal hyd. fluid?

Yes, it is not only possible, but recommended. As is the rest of the info I posted.

 

[dynahog]

New question, same Ford 4000 4 cylinder gas engine 1964. drained some fluids and filled all areas of tractor except the power steering because I don't know how to drain it properly without doing any damage..
My question is after changing the fluids, I took it for a quick 5 minute shakedown cruise. When completed and parked I immediately noticed a leak..
The location is (from sitting in the drivers seat) on the right, front, lower end of the bell housing where it couples to the engine. There is a little triangular plate with 3 bolts.... My new fluids were leaking a little from this plate when I parked the tractor. Anyone have any ideas what this plate is for? I did not touch this area... there is a funny little... like kotter pin end sticking out from what looks like the casing on the bottom side near this. and it moves freely, but will not come out with a gentle pull?

 

[Soundguy]

the pin is a dingle to keep that drain hole open so the dry area of your clutch bellhousing don't fill up with oil

can get 2 oils there.

1, if rear main seal leaks.. can get crankcase oil there.

2, if trans input shaft seal leaks can get trans fluid there.

if you overfill the trans it will leak for sure.

it's a 3$ seal plus a gasket that requires a split to change.. so check trans fluid level.. only fill to level plug.

soundguy

 

[dynahog]

Man, you are fast and helpful! Thankyou. I am inexperienced.. What do you mean when you say "requires a split to change, do you mean breaking away the bell housing from the engine? What if I keep running it in the condition it's in?

 

[Soundguy]

yep.. split at the bellhousing to engine to service clutch and then you pull the input shaft to change the seal and then repalce the gasket.. input shaft can be used as a clutch alignment tool.

if it is a bad leaker you will get an oil saturated clutch. oily clutches do weird things.. some get grabby and stick and are slow to disengage.. some slip.. int he end, the oil is not good for the media and when you fix the seal, you really should repalce the clutch if it is soaked.

running to high an oil level in the trans will be a sure problem.

soundguy

 

[dynahog]

Once again, thank you very much. Your insight, experience and wisdom is invaluable for a newbie like me. This can"t be be a new thing, and the cluctch has worked good so far... The oil level has remained low, but not empty in the trans... I may just go with it, watch it, then sell the tractor... Hope that works! Again, thank you for your timely replies. Your advice has been invaluable in getting me started...

 

[Soundguy]

low is realative.

it only needs to be up to the level check plug on the side.

also.. while a split is a lil work.. it's by no means a repair that would make you sell the tractor over.. it's just another thing.. maintenance.. etc.

good luck either way

soundguy

 

[Ford tractor]

"little work" is a relative thing. To front split a ford 4 cyl you do need a lot of tools, stands, roll around jacks, etc and a fair bit of skill and confidence. I would never tell a newbee to attempt a split unless they are pretty handy with tools and working around / under 1000+ pound hunks of iron.

With the FEL an BH on the machine, the time to split will be 12 to 24 hours depending on how stuck bolts are and what is needed. That assumes that you have a high end impact wrench that makes 600+ ft-lb and includes taking off and putting back on the BH (not a quick action!).

For some, it's better to use then sell to a person that can do the work. Just be honest and inform the prospective buyer.

 

[Soundguy]

"little work" is a relative thing. To front split a ford 4 cyl you do need a lot of tools, stands, roll around jacks, etc and a fair bit of skill and confidence. I would never tell a newbee to attempt a split unless they are pretty handy with tools and working around / under 1000+ pound hunks of iron.
.

I don't know of anything on a ford that requirs lots of tools. half the external bolts are the same size.

really.. a rolling floor jack for the rear end, and cribbing for under the oil pan, and some wood wedges for the front axle stops are all the 'weight supporting' needs for splitting an N in front of the trans. common hand tools are al that's needed for the fasteners.

soundguy