Ford 4000 diesal

[conx123]

Hi everyone

Seems the brake rod seals are past in on my ford 4000 diesal, she's leaking a right bit of oil,

Are they a big job to change? Do I need to strip the half axle out to do it? Or does the brake rod just screw out so I can slip the new seal over? Etc

Many thanks

 

[ovrszd]

Very simple to change. Take the linkage apart and remove the "yoke" that screws on the end of the brake rod. Then pry the seal out of the axle housing and pull it off the end of the rod. When installing the new one make sure the center hole of the seal is pushed onto the rod far enough to "snap" into the rod groove.

Will take you about 20 minutes to do the first one. 10 minutes to do the second.

 

[conx123]

Sounds straight forward enough I'll give it a shot some of these next days, no doubt the yoke is ceased solid as it must likley hasent been off in 20 years, thanks for the info

 

[ovrszd]

Sounds straight forward enough�� I'll give it a shot some of these next days, no doubt the yoke is ceased solid as it must likley hasent been off in 20 years,�� thanks for the info

I recently purchased a 1984 Ford 555A TLB that needed them changed. Had no problems taking it apart. Hope yours is as easy. Looks a bit overwhelming in the beginning but truly is an easy fix. And your rear axle assembly will appreciate being full of oil again!!!

 

[joecdeere]

+1 not a hard job at all, be sure to drive that side you're doing up on a 4x4 or jack it up some to keep hydraulic fluid from seeping out, and inspect the rod and dress it with some emery cloth if it's real rusty, so the new boot won't get torn up

 

[RickB]

Use a lot of Vaseline on the rod.

 

[MEMEMEME]

Just did this job on my "new" 4500.

Time I got the crud washed/scraped off/footplates off/seized yokes unseized/unscrewed/fender off on R side to offer working room/brakes adjusted by the book [R one was to the floor]/added about 3 extra threads to the R brake rod to try to squeeze out a bit more life before having to pull everything to replace the brake discs/diff-tranny bolts retightened/diff drain bolt unseized and drained/repainted footplates/replaced springs/refilled diff-I had more like a full day into the job...with everything clean,repainted, rethreaded, new brake springs and anti-seize applied I MIGHT be able to do both of 'em in an hour and a half the second time around.

If ovrszd can do that job on a neglected old beast like mine in 30 mins total he's either done it for a living or he's 3 times the man I am...or maybe the 4000 is just a lot easier to work on-

 

[ovrszd]

Maybe I was just lucky. Everything came apart very easily. Was no big deal at all.

 

[Tinhack]

You didn't have oil gushing out of there? The left side on my 3910 weeps a little. It must be holding back oil. I have new seals for mine but have been putting it off for that reason. I was going to change them the next time I change the trans oil.

 

[MEMEMEME]

Nope, no gusher...of course, when I drained it only about a gallon came out-this old girl had been rode hard and put away wet a few times I fear-a testament to how tough they must be that she seems to have survived well.
The R brake rod seal had a hole in it the size of a fat pencil so that diff had not had adequate lube for years I'm thinking.
Now that she has all new fluids except antifreeze [hoses coming] she's quieted down quite a lot and even starts w/o ether [I think the new air filter has a lot to do with that-].