Ford 3910 Wet Line Kit install help and questions

[Fireman 9731]

Hi Folks,

The time has come to install a wet line kit on my '89 3910. Its 2x4 and never had any wet lines previously.

I purchased this kit: Remote Valve Control Kit | Ford 2 231 26 261 281 291 3 323 343 36 361 39 391 393 4 41 411 413 46 461 463 | | D9NNB95BB | 8394476

Its not the exact kit shown in the picture though but similar. It didn't come with any instructions and a few O-rings were missing from the damaged packaging.

I was hoping I could get some pointers on install and operation. I assume that each opening on the bottom of the valve needs an O-ring on it, including the oval part. Do I just unbolt my existing cover plate, and install the new valve with the 4 supplied bolts? Also, what is the little turn screw valve on the side?

Operationally, I assume I just move the valve one direction, and a cylinder will move that way, move it the other way and then the cylinder moves the opposite way? It has no detent function. If I wanted to use it with a post driver with its own controls, would I just hold the valve in the open position?

Do i need to use Ambera Multi-G in the rear end or can I get by with standard (cheaper) hydraulic trans fluid?

Lastly, my flow control knob on the side of the tractor is seized and has been for a long time. Is there any trick to un-siezing it? I tried a big socket that fit the knob but I was afraid I was going to break it.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[ovrszd]

Never having installed one I can't give a definitive answer.

My assumption would be a simple removal of e,isting cover plate and installation of the new valve. Careful consideration of the old plate and the new valve should clarify where O-rings are needed. Any auto parts store will have the O-rings you might need.

No special fluid is required. Your local farm store should have the fluid needed. If the tractor is currently full of good oil very little will be needed.

Post pics of the new valve and old plate if you can't figure out the O-ring situation.

 

[Birdhunter1]

I use cheap hydraulic fluid in mine, no issues for the last 10 years. If that knob on the side won't move then just leave it alone if everything works, chances are unsiezing it could break something.
I've learned that sometimes taking things apart to inspect or maintain you end up with bigger problems from bolts that don't want to come loose, they break then you have a headache on your hands.

I could give an example of a spark plug replacement that ended up costing a new distributor, coolant change, thermostat cover replacement, new intake manifold, head gaskets and whatever else was required on a friends truck when a spark plug sheared off and dropped into the cylinder. The truck ran fine before, who cared that it was a 20 year old truck that ran great but you're going to change the plugs for peace of mind.

 

[Fireman 9731]

I agree with the notion of not messing with the flow control knob. It’s certainly not in the slow position. Local new holland dealer sold me the wrong O ring that I’m missing so I’ll try again tomorrow. Anybody know how this valve would work with a shaver post driver?

 

[Birdhunter1]

The valve has to go into a detent, or locked position to provide constant flow. The post driver has to return directly to the sump and NOT through that remote valve.

My hydraulics have a pump mounted on the side of the engine under the fuel tank to provide the auxiliary, so I do not know entirely how yours is supposed to be plumbed or how it functions, but on mine the remote valves and the 3 point hitch are entirely independent of each other only sharing the same oil. I don't know that yours will be entirely separate like mine.

On the post driver, you've got to adapt a way to get that hose from your driver to the sump, I took the fill cap off that is by the top link bracket on top of the left rear axle, I cut the hex portion off and tapped that with a 3/4" NPT pipe tap. actually I think I used a 7/8" twist Silver and Deming drill bit to drill the hex off from the inside of the cap held in a vice. Either way there is enough metal to thap the internal of that fill cap with a 3/4" NPT thread and then use a pipe with an elbow to a barbed fitting to accept your post driver return hose. When not using the driver I unthread the barb fitting and thread a plug into the elbow. To do this black iron pipe fitting will be fine, no high pressure is involved.

 

[ovrszd]

Since his tractor didn't come with rear remotes I'm guessing he doesn't have the aux pump like you and I do. So his rear remote is going to share the 3pt system.

 

[Fireman 9731]

The post driver is already plumbed to return to the tractor sump through the top fill of the rear end. Without the detent, could I just fasten (bungee cord?) the remote valve open to supply full flow to the driver? Could that hurt anything?

 

[ovrszd]

Many operators do it that way. Works just like detent.

 

[Texasmark]

Hi Folks,

The time has come to install a wet line kit on my '89 3910. Its 2x4 and never had any wet lines previously.

I purchased this kit: Remote Valve Control Kit | Ford 2 231 26 261 281 291 3 323 343 36 361 39 391 393 4 41 411 413 46 461 463 | | D9NNB95BB | 8394476

Its not the exact kit shown in the picture though but similar. It didn't come with any instructions and a few O-rings were missing from the damaged packaging.

I was hoping I could get some pointers on install and operation. I assume that each opening on the bottom of the valve needs an O-ring on it, including the oval part. Do I just unbolt my existing cover plate, and install the new valve with the 4 supplied bolts? Also, what is the little turn screw valve on the side?

Operationally, I assume I just move the valve one direction, and a cylinder will move that way, move it the other way and then the cylinder moves the opposite way? It has no detent function. If I wanted to use it with a post driver with its own controls, would I just hold the valve in the open position?

Do i need to use Ambera Multi-G in the rear end or can I get by with standard (cheaper) hydraulic trans fluid?

Lastly, my flow control knob on the side of the tractor is seized and has been for a long time. Is there any trick to un-siezing it? I tried a big socket that fit the knob but I was afraid I was going to break it.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I just installed one I bought off ebay. Yes on an Oring on all the ports. There are 4 diameters. The smaller 4 holes are split into pairs with different diameters as you can see. There are 2 thin large diameter rings, one fits the large round hole and the other the outer oval hole. The thick large Oring fits the center oval hole that is machined deeper than the rest. Yes you compress an O shaped ring to fit the oval openings. I smear Vaseline on them to keep them in place so that they don't fall out when I get ready to mount.

On my 3910 the 3 pt can be in any position for the remote to work.

The cylinder isn't picky about fluids; you don't need to change any fluids/types because of it.

Initially the cylinder won't work as the trapped air needs to be removed. To remove it just move the control back and forth, like full one way for a minute and full the opposite way for a minute. As the air is removed the cylinder will start to move.

Tractor rpms control the pump gpm flow so for max flow you need to be at PTO rated rpms or better.

I decide which position of the control works best for me to extend the cylinder. If I don't like which way it is working, just swap the cylinders hoses at the remote disconnects. Once you get it setup like you want, I put a single tie wrap on the upper hose so that the next time I want to connect the cylinder I get them installed in the correct position.

You have to relieve the pressure on the system when connecting hydraulics. Engine off and move the control valve back and forth to relieve any built up pressure on the tractor side. Trapped fluid in the cylinder's hoses responds to temperature differentials. If your cylinder has been sitting out in the sun and is hotter than it was when you last disconnected it, you may have a problem making the hookup. In severe cases I have unscrewed the fittings from the hose to let the pressure off (expanded, excess fluid out) so that the connections will mate.

Most connections require you to grasp the hose behind the (rigidly tractor mounted) connector outer sleeve and push toward the open end to release pressure on the balls within the female connection allowing the male hose fitting of the cylinder hoses to connect. These tractor fittings are deliberately designed to break free and seal off if for some reason the implement onto which the cylinder is mounted breaks away from the tractor.

On your stuck flow control valve, you might want to leave it alone if you are satisfied with current flow rates. Not telling where the seizure is located and you could wind up creating a leak or breaking something that would cost you trying to force things.

 

[Fireman 9731]

Thanks for the info! Got it installed over the weekend and everything seems to be working as it should with no leaks. It was more work making the coupling bracket fit than it was installing the valve. Any idea what the little turn valve on top of the block is?