Loader Ford 3550 industrial transmission help

[Opti-Mist]

More accurately, "excessive slopticity". There is a "slopticity tolerance".

That is true. The term was actually used by the design supervisor in reporting to senior management. (I was snickering on the sidelines.)

 

[City Farmer]

Makes sense that the linkage is wore out and needs to be rebuilt. Any source to rebuild the linkage?

Also, the power steering doesn't work. I've rebuilt the pump but it still sucks to drive. Maybe the steering cylinder is out?

I've never hated a piece of equipment as much as I hate this pos.

I'd rather dig a hole with my 24" drag scoop than even try and use the front bucket on this pos

What was the pump pressure after you rebuilt it?

 

[skeeter102]

What was the pump pressure after you rebuilt it?

I didn't have a gauge to check it. In thinking about it some more, I should probably order one and make sure the pump is rebuilt correctly.

How much pressure should this pump make?

Any way to eyeball it without a gauge?

 

[TractorTech]

Makes sense that the linkage is wore out and needs to be rebuilt. Any source to rebuild the linkage?

Also, the power steering doesn't work. I've rebuilt the pump but it still sucks to drive. Maybe the steering cylinder is out?

I've never hated a piece of equipment as much as I hate this pos.

I'd rather dig a hole with my 24" drag scoop than even try and use the front bucket on this pos

Linkage on the the shuttle is usually rollpins and the matching holes that have worn. Oversizing the holes and larger pins or bolts is an option. I had a customer with a 550 that welded and ground the rod that swivels on the transmission cover to take a majority of slop out of the linkage and it shifted great after. Removed the fuel tank and spent 4 hours to get it back into usable condition without many $$'s.
The PS cylinder linkage sounds like it needs tightening and greasing too. The sensing link is probably loose and not activating the power assist valve on the cylinder. If it's not leaking, not too difficult to remove, clean and rebuild. The manual portion may need an adjustment on the sector and some oil added to the gearbox as well.

 

[City Farmer]

I didn't have a gauge to check it. In thinking about it some more, I should probably order one and make sure the pump is rebuilt correctly.

How much pressure should this pump make?

Any way to eyeball it without a gauge?

I don't have my book in front of me but I'd say 1000psi would be in the ballpark.

 

[skeeter102]

Linkage on the the shuttle is usually rollpins and the matching holes that have worn. Oversizing the holes and larger pins or bolts is an option. I had a customer with a 550 that welded and ground the rod that swivels on the transmission cover to take a majority of slop out of the linkage and it shifted great after. Removed the fuel tank and spent 4 hours to get it back into usable condition without many $$'s.
The PS cylinder linkage sounds like it needs tightening and greasing too. The sensing link is probably loose and not activating the power assist valve on the cylinder. If it's not leaking, not too difficult to remove, clean and rebuild. The manual portion may need an adjustment on the sector and some oil added to the gearbox as well.

Good info.

I messed with it some the other day when I used the bucket to unload a shredder.

The transmission feels like it's going into neutral because you can feel it fall into what feels like a neutral detent but it's like there's no neutral in the transmission. (On the shuttle) It will still roll forward or back because it's engaged in gear. The only thing I can do is put the gear box in neutral instead of the shuttle.

Any links to instructions for going through the power steering assist cylinder?

 

[TractorTech]

Skeeter, I can get you the steering cylinder info. but back on the shuttle, it has an internal leak in one of the clutches or sealing rings causing it not to disengage. Generally, you can't shift the main box without grinding. Can I assume that the neutral safety switch is not working and you can start it with the main transmission in gear?
Also, could be the shuttle valve detent (located in bell housing) could be dry and causing the spool to stick while the linkage is sloppy.

 

[skeeter102]

Skeeter, I can get you the steering cylinder info. but back on the shuttle, it has an internal leak in one of the clutches or sealing rings causing it not to disengage. Generally, you can't shift the main box without grinding. Can I assume that the neutral safety switch is not working and you can start it with the main transmission in gear?
Also, could be the shuttle valve detent (located in bell housing) could be dry and causing the spool to stick while the linkage is sloppy.

Yes, the neutral safety switch was bypassed by the previous owner. The main gear box is hard to shift. If you can get the shuttle to find neutral, generally you can get the box to shift with some effort.

What's the best way to figure if it's an internal leak or the shuttle detent valve?

Thanks so much for all the info so far.

 

[skeeter102]

I've attempted to attach some pictures of the power steering cylinder and the transmission and linkage to hopefully help out this discussion.

Thanks for all the help thus far.

 

[Jnewman1]

Hey I have the same problem but its just worn out all the holes are not round but I have a bigger issue when I fire mine up put it in gear flip it in forward or revers it will not move put it back in neutral let it idle for 10 mins it moves fine then when she gets hot after about 2 3 hours it starts slipping in forward and fine in revers any ideas to look at be for I load it up and take to a shop