OP
thartweger
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but if the coolant lvl hasnt moved, that would be out of the equation would it not?
Ford 3000 - Blueish hue smoke story / question
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Farmwithjunk
Super Member
Not UNcommon to see some white-ish smoke in cool weather. More common with higher humidity levels. I've got one tractor (Deere 2440) that's puffed white smoke until completely warmed up since day one. 30 years later I've come to the conclusion it is't a problem.
As for issues with over-fueling, do a google search for "wet stacking' I'd rather let an expert explain that one.
If you do in fact have a coolant leak into a combusion chamber, you'll be missing some coolant from the radiator. Watch levels.
As for issues with over-fueling, do a google search for "wet stacking' I'd rather let an expert explain that one.
If you do in fact have a coolant leak into a combusion chamber, you'll be missing some coolant from the radiator. Watch levels.
nspec
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Will everybody quit scaring this poor guy. Use the **** tractor - that's what it is trying to tell you. Work it hard and it'll be just fine. Plenty of older, tired diesels smoke at idle - they just like to work. You'll know when something is really wrong!!!
As it is being used, it gets up to a good working temperature, things seal better and the smoke clears. The whitish blue smoke you're seeing is unburned fuel. The engine is sufficiently worn so that it is not generating enough heat under no load conditions to burn all of the fuel. Work it hard, and all is well. It's an older tractor, not computer controlled to compensate for the different load and exhaust gas temps.
Just quit worrying so much and go have fun with it - it's a bulletproof tractor.
As it is being used, it gets up to a good working temperature, things seal better and the smoke clears. The whitish blue smoke you're seeing is unburned fuel. The engine is sufficiently worn so that it is not generating enough heat under no load conditions to burn all of the fuel. Work it hard, and all is well. It's an older tractor, not computer controlled to compensate for the different load and exhaust gas temps.
Just quit worrying so much and go have fun with it - it's a bulletproof tractor.
OP
thartweger
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its not that im being a worry wart if you will, its just that 2008 was my first year for my business and this is like one of the things i have most of my money tied up in. it started with me just basically wanting to brush hog so i got a ford 8n which was tired from the start and i really didnt know a whole heck of a lot about em. the tractor starting knocking so i traded it for a yanmar 276d. the guy i got the ford 3000 from that i have now it the person i got the yanmar from. well the yanmar's 3pt hitch messed up so i asked him if he would just buy it back. i didnt even put 100 hours on the yanmar and had issues. either way, he offered me this ford 3000 straight up for my yanmar to make things right. i told him i just wanted cash back but he came up with this alternative as an idea that i didnt have to accept. so i went with the tractor ford 3000.
again, its not that im trying to make things out harder then what they need to be, i just dont want to ruin this tractor. if this was a problem like soundguy said, i could really damage some things, and it doesnt appear to be thats what it is, but im cautious. if i had thousands and thouseands of dollars to just throw around, i prolly wouldnt be so worried. id prolly just take it to a mechanic and say, make it right! unfortunately i dont have that type of money, and i dont have the knowledge so i figured the best place to start would be talking with people that know. keep in mind im 24 years old, and everything im accustomed to IS electronic lol. sensors and guages and everything that does the work for me right?
another thing this temperature guage always stays buried in hot even when its just starting, is their a way to correct that? yes i know i need to get the book. i will do that soon.
so, all arrows point to unburned fuel, but im still going to address it with him and maybe even in time get it checked out. what would need to be done to correct this issue, if it is infact unburned fuel? you say "The engine is sufficiently worn so that it is not generating enough heat under no load conditions to burn all of the fuel" so would that mean the only way to correct it would be to hone the block and throw rings cylinders in it or could it be as simple as an adjustment on the injector pump?
again, its not that im trying to make things out harder then what they need to be, i just dont want to ruin this tractor. if this was a problem like soundguy said, i could really damage some things, and it doesnt appear to be thats what it is, but im cautious. if i had thousands and thouseands of dollars to just throw around, i prolly wouldnt be so worried. id prolly just take it to a mechanic and say, make it right! unfortunately i dont have that type of money, and i dont have the knowledge so i figured the best place to start would be talking with people that know. keep in mind im 24 years old, and everything im accustomed to IS electronic lol. sensors and guages and everything that does the work for me right?
another thing this temperature guage always stays buried in hot even when its just starting, is their a way to correct that? yes i know i need to get the book. i will do that soon.
so, all arrows point to unburned fuel, but im still going to address it with him and maybe even in time get it checked out. what would need to be done to correct this issue, if it is infact unburned fuel? you say "The engine is sufficiently worn so that it is not generating enough heat under no load conditions to burn all of the fuel" so would that mean the only way to correct it would be to hone the block and throw rings cylinders in it or could it be as simple as an adjustment on the injector pump?
OP
thartweger
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according to wikipedia: Wet stacking is a condition in diesel engines in which all the fuel is not burned and passes on into the exhaust side of the turbocharger and on into the exhaust system. Wet stacking is detectable when there is a black ooze around exhaust pipe connections and around the turbocharger. Continuous black exhaust from the stack when under a constant load is also an indication that all the fuel is not being burned - good preventive maintenance is critical for this type of generator application.
this article was on diesel hospital generators, but would go hand in hand with what were talking about here. the rain cap on the exhaust pipe has build up on it, and noticed a semi moist looking area on the side of the exhaust manifold too, but wasnt sure what that was.. when it becomes light out ill check it out again, but this sounds exactly like what my tractor is doing, although it is doing it at idle, not under a load. im going to look more into this.
this article was on diesel hospital generators, but would go hand in hand with what were talking about here. the rain cap on the exhaust pipe has build up on it, and noticed a semi moist looking area on the side of the exhaust manifold too, but wasnt sure what that was.. when it becomes light out ill check it out again, but this sounds exactly like what my tractor is doing, although it is doing it at idle, not under a load. im going to look more into this.
OP
thartweger
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here is a link that explains it a little better. i have yet to read it just posting before i forget.
What is "Wet Stacking"
What is "Wet Stacking"
Common name for this is called "slobbering". Old diesel with the lower injection pressure and the lower compression ratios will not burn all the fuel when the tractors are cold to cool.
You ran the tractor and gave it a load - heated it up - and it was able to burn all the fuel. You cooled it down and it started smoking again as it's too cool to volatilize the fuel and burn it all. You need to work the machine. It WANTS to be rid hard and long. It's a diesel thing.
You ran the tractor and gave it a load - heated it up - and it was able to burn all the fuel. You cooled it down and it started smoking again as it's too cool to volatilize the fuel and burn it all. You need to work the machine. It WANTS to be rid hard and long. It's a diesel thing.
OP
thartweger
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hahaha well after watching the new movie "tropic thunder" im back to doing some research. I have been doing some reading, and from what i understand its not technically good for this to happen. over time if the tractor keeps doing this, or i make the tractor do this, the only option would be to hone the cylinders. i guess i just need to prevent from underloading the tractor. if im not going to be using it hard, i guess i dont need to use it right?
now ive been reading about certain additives and what not that supposedly "deglaze" the cylinders and help prevent glazing, but they all seem very expensive. are their any more cost effective additives out there that would do the same things? i know lucas makes heavy duty oil stabilizer, do you think adding this would help? has anyone had experience with an older tractor and used lucas oil stabilizer and had positive results? i guess i just need to get down and try it, but i dont have any work to do with the tractor right now unfortunately to really put it to the test. any more information on this would be appreciated. i really do appreciate everyones time in reading what i have typed and i appreciatedyou taking the time to respond as well. thank you and look forward to reading up more. who knows! maybe ill go to school to be a diesel mechanic one day for the heck of it =p .. ive always liked restoring things, and im growing more and more fond of tractors and have always loved diesels so.. anyways till next time.
now ive been reading about certain additives and what not that supposedly "deglaze" the cylinders and help prevent glazing, but they all seem very expensive. are their any more cost effective additives out there that would do the same things? i know lucas makes heavy duty oil stabilizer, do you think adding this would help? has anyone had experience with an older tractor and used lucas oil stabilizer and had positive results? i guess i just need to get down and try it, but i dont have any work to do with the tractor right now unfortunately to really put it to the test. any more information on this would be appreciated. i really do appreciate everyones time in reading what i have typed and i appreciatedyou taking the time to respond as well. thank you and look forward to reading up more. who knows! maybe ill go to school to be a diesel mechanic one day for the heck of it =p .. ive always liked restoring things, and im growing more and more fond of tractors and have always loved diesels so.. anyways till next time.
Soundguy
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If you would have read -ALL- of the messages you will see that he indicated that the coolant level had changed.
Dropping coolant with the presence of white smoke usually indicates a head gasket leak..
soundguy
Re-read post #21.
It says that the coolant level has NOT changed. It was a short post and easy to miss.
Thartweger, I wouldn't freak out. Just USE the machine when you need to and turn it off when you are not. The poppet pressure may be a bit low on the injectors or the pump may be turned up a bit. Checking that requires you to pull the pump/injectors and take them to a someone (assuming you don't have expensive test rigs). Just testing will probably cost you well over $100. The level of smoke you are talking about is not going to kill the engine. If it starts to look like a bug fogger, then you got's issues.
If you really want to deglase the cylinders, the old mechanics used to take a heaping table spoon of BonAmie or Comet cleanser and with the air filter off would blow that into the intake tract with the engine heated up and at a high idle speed. 1500 rpm or so. Then continue to run it for an hour. That procedure was even in the old time service manuals. It did work, but probably took off 1000 hours of engine life. I DON'T think you need to do that, nor do I think it would help the situation at all.
jb