Ford 2000 questions

/ Ford 2000 questions #1  

Rowdy Raven

Bronze Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
93
Tractor
Kubota L3010
I am looking at a 72 Ford 2000 gasser. It is a clean looking tractor that has been in the same family since new. The price is $3,300 and it has 1650 hours on the working tach. We started it from cold and it cranked ok, it seemed that the shift lever had to be held in a very distinct place to get the tractor to turn over. Once cranked, the throttle lever had to be engaged very slowly or the tractor would stall out. After it warmed up for 5-10 minutes it seemed more willing to rev up. This machine also has the override clutch on the PTO. The right rear tire also was leaking fluid from around the valve stem.

I plan to use the tractor to mow with and to keep up my ten acres of land, that is moving trees, spreading gravel, etc. I have looked at quite a few tractors but none in as nice of shape as this 2000, it appears to have led a good life. Your thoughts and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Rowdy
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #2  
It doesn't matter, but do you realize that $3300 is more than that tractor cost when it was new? :)

Being cold natured is a natural thing with carburetors. We are so spoiled with automatic chokes and fuel injection on our autos that we forget that using a choke was common practice a few years back. Didn't the tractor have a choke lever? I'm not sure, but I don't think the 2000 is automatic choke. If it is, it probably needs to be lubricated and freed up. For manual choke, while the tractor is cold, you have to hold the choke partially closed until the engine warms up. It works like most riding lawnmowers.

If the tire is leaking fluid around the valve stem, it means water is inside the tire and making contact with the wheel rim. If calcium chloride is used in the water, you may have problems with the wheel rim rusting out. It will take a long time though.

BTW: The PTO clutch is called an "overrun" clutch instead of an "override" clutch. That's only important if you are searching for a replacement. I think most people here would know what you mean. It's just a ratchet that lets the mower keep turning from inertia while the engine and rear drive wheels operate normally. Without the overrun clutch, you will be propelled forward until the blade stops. This has caused many accidents with folks running into barns, fences, ditches and even into ponds.
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #3  
It doesn't matter, but do you realize that $3300 is more than that tractor cost when it was new? :)

Being cold natured is a natural thing with carburetors. We are so spoiled with automatic chokes and fuel injection on our autos that we forget that using a choke was common practice a few years back. Didn't the tractor have a choke lever? I'm not sure, but I don't think the 2000 is automatic choke. If it is, it probably needs to be lubricated and freed up. For manual choke, while the tractor is cold, you have to hold the choke partially closed until the engine warms up. It works like most riding lawnmowers.

If the tire is leaking fluid around the valve stem, it means water is inside the tire and making contact with the wheel rim. If calcium chloride is used in the water, you may have problems with the wheel rim rusting out. It will take a long time though.

BTW: The PTO clutch is called an "overrun" clutch instead of an "override" clutch. That's only important if you are searching for a replacement. I think most people here would know what you mean. It's just a ratchet that lets the mower keep turning from inertia while the engine and rear drive wheels operate normally. Without the overrun clutch, you will be propelled forward until the blade stops. This has caused many accidents with folks running into barns, fences, ditches and even into ponds.

I think you are thinking about the older model 2000. There was 2 different models made. He is looking at the newer of the 2 which cost new $5,675. This tractor also has live PTO so you really dont need the overrun clutch.
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #4  
I think you are thinking about the older model 2000. There was 2 different models made. He is looking at the newer of the 2 which cost new $5,675. This tractor also has live PTO so you really dont need the overrun clutch.

Good info! You are right, I was thinking about the older 2000. Since Rowdy says it has an overrun clutch, I wonder if they are trying to conserve the PTO brake. That's the only thing I can imagine on a live PTO.
 
/ Ford 2000 questions
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Many thanks guys, I will be taking another look at the Ford next week.

Rowdy
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #6  
3300$ is a steal on a 2000 with no huge issues.

If it is a tubelss tire.. I'd unload it, dismount.. pull the stem.. sand it down and pop a new stem in.. then tube them rears If I reloaded them.

the carb sound slike it wants an adjustment.. I never did like the holley carbs.. a zenith would IMHO. be a better more user friendly replacement.

To the original poster.. what trans does it have?

soundguy
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #7  
This tractor also has live PTO so you really dont need the overrun clutch.


In all likelyhood, not so.....MOST of the 2000's were basic economy models, built WITHOUT live power. 2-stage clutch was standard on 3000's but still an option on the 2000. With the bulk of the 2000's being sold as a no frills basic model, their retail price averaged well under $4000. I bought a 1973 3000 gasser NEW in '73 for $4400 delivered.
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #8  
3300$ is a steal on a 2000 with no huge issues.

If it is a tubelss tire.. I'd unload it, dismount.. pull the stem.. sand it down and pop a new stem in.. then tube them rears If I reloaded them.

the carb sound slike it wants an adjustment.. I never did like the holley carbs.. a zenith would IMHO. be a better more user friendly replacement.

To the original poster.. what trans does it have?

soundguy


The 2000/3000 gassers were EXTREMELY cold natured. The Holley carb was a contributing factor. I bought my 3000 in 73 just so I'd have an "easy-to-start" gasser for feeding and other winter chores. I can't tell you how many times I had to let it sit and use the MUCH easier to start MF150 diesel because the 3000 would take an hour to warm up enough to run right in cold weather. By "cold", I mean anything UNDER 45 degrees.
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #9  
The 2000/3000 gassers were EXTREMELY cold natured. The Holley carb was a contributing factor. I bought my 3000 in 73 just so I'd have an "easy-to-start" gasser for feeding and other winter chores. I can't tell you how many times I had to let it sit and use the MUCH easier to start MF150 diesel because the 3000 would take an hour to warm up enough to run right in cold weather. By "cold", I mean anything UNDER 45 degrees.

I believe ya... I don't like the holley carbs.. hard(er) to rebuild than a MS or zenith.. and well.. they just like to give problems. IMHO.. a zenith upgrade is money well spent if you have one of them holley's on a tractor..

soundguy
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #10  
3300$ is a steal on a 2000 with no huge issues.

If it is a tubelss tire.. I'd unload it, dismount.. pull the stem.. sand it down and pop a new stem in.. then tube them rears If I reloaded them.

the carb sound slike it wants an adjustment.. I never did like the holley carbs.. a zenith would IMHO. be a better more user friendly replacement.

To the original poster.. what trans does it have?

soundguy
I recently attended an auction in MI and quit bidding at $2000 on a decent condition 1971 2000 gasser with std PTO, p/s & 8 spd. Eventually went for $2300. Probably should be kicking myself, eh Soundguy?
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #11  
Can't touch them down here for less than 3800$.. that's the cheapest I ever saw one go here..

soundguy
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #12  
OhBoy, 2000s! Gotta throw my $.02 in here.

I agree with Junk. The gasser 2000s were economy tractors that came standard with transmission PTO. Live PTO was available, but I don't know if it was limited to the diesel version or came as an option for the gasser.

I sold my '69 2000 a few months ago and got over $4K for it. Of course, this was after putting new rims and tires on the back, rebuilding the carb, putting in a new battery, a new starter, and a few other minor things. It had around 2300 hours although the tach said only 1532 (I told the buyer, BTW). Hourmeter in tach did something funny while it sat in the barn for 8 years as I had checked the hours on it just before it went on extended vacation.

My Dad bought it used in '75 with 700 hours for around $3.5K as I recall. I'd say $3.3K is pretty good for a clean 2000, especially if those hours are correct.

They are a bit cold blooded but, before it developed carb problems, the 2000 would always start and, after a minute or so at idle, be ready to at least move out of the barn. Had to keep the manual choke partially on for about the first 4 or 5 minutes, however. I always thought of it as an easy starter.

My '69 had a single range 4-speed transmission. The tranny was about the only real gripe I had with that tractor. First gear was way too fast; something like 3mph at 1500RPM. It was faster in 1st at PTO RPM than my L4300 is in 3rd gear at PTO RPM. Engine was very strong, but the thing always wanted to fly. I heard that in late '69 or '70 they started putting a single range 6 spd. transmission in the gasser 2000s. If your '72 has the 6 spd., I think you'll be much happier with it....unless the 2 extra gears were added on the wrong end!?

When I sold it, the tractor had a Zenith carb on it. The Zenith replaced a Holley that had a leaking float valve. The Holley's float valve seat isn't replaceable, so when that happened it was new carb. time. Unfortunately the new Zenith had a leaky float and the effect was the same....gas running out of the carb onto the floor and engine drowning in gas. At that point my poor old Dad threw up his hands and walked away from it. It was 8 years before I got a chance to work on it. After replacing the float, I still had to clean the Zenith out and put in a rebuild kit to get it running right.

Another minor gripe is that they didn't come standard with power steering and, by today's standards, needed it. There are power steering kits that can be added, however. Think they run about $500-$600.

It was always a good tractor on a 5' bush hog or a hay rake, and did a decent job with a 2x14 bottom plow as well. Even ran a small square baler fairly well except when the hay was very heavy...just couldn't go slow enough. It always pulled quite well with fluid in the rears. After the tire/rim change I had occasion to pull with no fluid. It didn't do well at all, just spun the tires. It was in the family for 33 years.

Think of a 3 cylinder gas 2000 as an 8N on steroids and you won't be far off.
FWIW
Bob
 
Last edited:
/ Ford 2000 questions #13  
I own a Ford 2000 with about 15,000 hours on in. Overall a good lightweight tractor that won't compact the ground. One problem is the brakes are dry verses wet, and are terrible. Last fall I bought a Ford 2810, with 1200 hours, for $6,000. You might consider one of these.
 
/ Ford 2000 questions #14  
I have a 1975 2000 diesel.I payed $4200 last year.It was used just for clipping pastures and was completely rebuilt from top to bottom.No new paint at all and looked real good for its age.All paper work that was done to it when it went thru the rebuild.It has PS and a live PTO/2 stage clutch,8 speed trannie.

I am very happy with it and most auto part stores has most parts for it over the counnter. You can't say that about Jap tractors!
 
 
Top