Hello! This is my first post and I love this site! I have a Ford 2000 model# B1023B and Serial # C479709. I think its a 1975 model. It has a Zenith Carb. and the Tab numbers are 02 07 and 13915B and E1NNDA. I have been searching for a carb. Kit. Every kit I have looked at, the main gasket that splits the carb into, is not the same as the gasket on the carb now. The closest kit I can find is one for a Zenith 13915 not a B. Would this kit work for me?? The Carb is leaking gas out the weep hole. The needle and seat look new. I have cleaned the entire carb and all the jets, but it is still leaking. The float does not leak and is good. I have tested the float and needle and It seems to be working good. My though is the gasket is not sealing off the gas correctly and gas is spilling over into the intake and out the weep hole. Thank you for all your help!
Ed of all trades
Elite Member
If you just need a gasket go to any auto parts store and get a roll of gasket material and then get a leather punch and make your own. Ed
Hey Ed,
This morning I made a new gasket just what you said. I will try it tomorrow. I am worried about why I can not find the right kit for this carb. The float and needle that are in the carb. may not be the correct parts. I bought this tractor last year and it has always leaked fuel. I have to turn the fuel valve off and let it run out of gas or it will leak out all the gas in the fuel tank. I looked for additional numbers on the carb. but didnt find any model numbers.
This morning I made a new gasket just what you said. I will try it tomorrow. I am worried about why I can not find the right kit for this carb. The float and needle that are in the carb. may not be the correct parts. I bought this tractor last year and it has always leaked fuel. I have to turn the fuel valve off and let it run out of gas or it will leak out all the gas in the fuel tank. I looked for additional numbers on the carb. but didnt find any model numbers.
DJ54
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It sounds like more of a float adjustment problem. The fuel level in the bowl should be approx. 1/4 of the full depth of the bowl, from the top of the bowl, when the needle valve shuts it off. If leaving the fuel valve open, and it will drain the tank, there is a problem with the float, or it's proper level setting, It could be hanging up on something, or just needs adjusted.
When I head back out to the shop, I'll see if my manual shows the float measurement for the Zenith. My '65 model has the Holley, and I know it has info on it, just not sure if it covers the others. Maybe this thread will catch Soundguy's eye, and he can chime in on the subject.
When I head back out to the shop, I'll see if my manual shows the float measurement for the Zenith. My '65 model has the Holley, and I know it has info on it, just not sure if it covers the others. Maybe this thread will catch Soundguy's eye, and he can chime in on the subject.
MitchellB
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I have got into a habit of always turning off my fuel tank when I park either one of my Ford tractors. Those gravity fed tanks can fill up my crankcase if the needle valve ever sticks open. I've had to change my oil more than once, because I forgot to shut off the fuel supply. I also try to remember to turn the fuel off (and many other gas engines too) and let the engine continue to run until the carb is empty if I think it may be a long time before use it again. I don't like the though of fuel gelling in my carb or leaving a film inside the carb if it evaporates out.
Thanks MichellB, Glad to here someone else does the same as I do. The tractor will not crank now because of all the flooding. Funny thing is, once I crank the tractor it does not flood out. Only when sitting. Maybe when the tractor is bouncing around when I drive it, the float and needle works.
DJ54
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I think I may have found the complete kit you are looking for, if that gasket needs to be replaced. I find it somewhat strange it doesn't show a part number for that gasket alone. Click on this link,and it will show an exploded view of the carb. Official New Holland Online Parts Store and Online Parts Catalog for New Holland and Ford Tractors.
Here is a link to Messicks that does not show the exploded view, but does show the price for the carb. kit. Search Parts | Messick's
Here is a link to Messicks that does not show the exploded view, but does show the price for the carb. kit. Search Parts | Messick's
Thanks DJ54,
That is a great website. I will look around and see if I can find the kit that will fit my carb. The explosive view that you sent me is different from my carb. I will try to upload a pic of the gasket so you can see the difference.
That is a great website. I will look around and see if I can find the kit that will fit my carb. The explosive view that you sent me is different from my carb. I will try to upload a pic of the gasket so you can see the difference.
DJ54
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I always use the "Go Advanced" feature @ below right of reply box. You can download pictures to there, and actually create a small library of pics. I've posted some of the pictures a few times, when replying to common problems that seem to pop up in similar threads.
DJ54
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Almost forgot... According to the OEM manual float setting on all models without the hillside fuel shutoff is set at 63/64", +- 1/32". Those with the hfs, are set at 7/8", +- 1/32".
MitchellB
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My old 8N is has a very fine line between just the right amount of choke to crank her and flooding out. She has a sweet spot where she fires up fine every time with the proper amount of choke applied (learned through trial and error - mostly error), but choke to little and her starter just spins the motor around. Once that first pop of ignition happens, I better let go of the choke or she is flooded. Even when the engine is hot she likes just a little choking to bring her to life.
Today I will install the carb back on to the tractor. Last night I put a new gasket that I had made and adjusted the float. I hope this works and I will report back with the results. Thanks again to all for your help!
Yesterday, I read a post from Soundguy and he would tap the needle into the seat to form a ring to prevent leaking. I did that and installed the carb on the tractor. Turned the fuel valve on a gas ran thru the carb and out the weep hole.
This all all happened when my dad was bushhoging a field. He said the Generator light came on and stayed on the whole time. when he turned off the tractor to adjust the bushog and tried to start the tractor, the battery was dead. So he went and bought a new battery and installed it . Now when he tried to start the tractor, It would almost crank. The exhaust looked like it was flooding. The tractor has allways leaked gas but would start and then the leak would stop. I pulled out each plug and laid them on the block to check the fire. The fire was ok. I have ordered a Carb Kit and will start with the Carburetor first. I think there may be another problem other that the leaking carb but I cant seem to find it. The tractor should crank. It almost will. But soon as I let off the key from cranking, It dies out. Could installing the battery or dead Generator be the cause of not starting. Sorry to be so long. Thanks
This all all happened when my dad was bushhoging a field. He said the Generator light came on and stayed on the whole time. when he turned off the tractor to adjust the bushog and tried to start the tractor, the battery was dead. So he went and bought a new battery and installed it . Now when he tried to start the tractor, It would almost crank. The exhaust looked like it was flooding. The tractor has allways leaked gas but would start and then the leak would stop. I pulled out each plug and laid them on the block to check the fire. The fire was ok. I have ordered a Carb Kit and will start with the Carburetor first. I think there may be another problem other that the leaking carb but I cant seem to find it. The tractor should crank. It almost will. But soon as I let off the key from cranking, It dies out. Could installing the battery or dead Generator be the cause of not starting. Sorry to be so long. Thanks
jimmysisson
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Last problem sounds like a failed ballast resistor. With key in crank position, coil gets full battery voltage. With key released to run position, coil feed wire runs through the resistor. That lowers voltage to coil so it doesn't overheat but still gets enough juice to run the engine. An open resistor means no voltage to coil. Check in both stated key positions with simple test lamp at key side of coil.
Jim
Jim
