FORD 1920 WILL NOT SHIFT

[fried1765]

I have a 1988 Ford 1920 that I had refurbished in 2015. It had 1050 hours then, and has 1063 now.
I decided to have a new (aftermarket) clutch installed, because I had an idea that the loader had been used a lot.
The tractor has never spent a night outside, since I have owned it, and it had the clutch pedal blocked over the winter (I was away all winter).
Used the tractor for about 1 hour yesterday (very light duty).
This morning when I started the tractor something bad must have happened.
I selected mid range for gears, engaged the shifter to 2nd gear, selected forward on the shuttle, and let the clutch out.
I then I heard a mild clunk, and the tractor would not move.
I then selected low range, (holding the shuttle shifter in forward) and the tractor WOULD move ....even.... with the clutch PEDAL STILL PUSHED IN.
If I go to neutral on the shuttle shifter (in low range only) the tractor will stop. If I hold the shuttle shifter hard against the stops, the tractor will move, in either fwd or rev (in low range only). Nothing happens in mid range, and I did not try high range.
Any ideas that might save me from having to have it split again.
I am nearly 77 years old, now with serious arthritis, so it will not be me doing any splitting. I did it with a friend before.
The new Chinese (?) clutch was from Reliable Aftermarket Parts. Seems like that might have been a poor choice on my part.
I saved my original clutch, and if needed, I can have it rebuilt to use as a replacement.
Pilot bearing, and clutch release bearing were replaced with the replacement clutch.
What else might I need?
Clutch fork? release spring?
I am in a very rural area, so will need to plan for necessary parts well in advance.

 

[kirkawilson]

Does sound like a clutch problem. Does the bottom half of the clutch pedal throw engage/disengage the PTO?
Might try some clutch adjustment before you split it...http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/176639-ford-1920-pto-clutch-fun.html. Likely hafta remove the loader mount to get to the access hole in clutch housing.

 

[fried1765]

Does sound like a clutch problem. Does the bottom half of the clutch pedal throw engage/disengage the PTO?
Might try some clutch adjustment before you split it...http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/176639-ford-1920-pto-clutch-fun.html. Likely hafta remove the loader mount to get to the access hole in clutch housing.

I don't believe an adjustment will fix the problem. The clutch is new, and was adjusted when installed.
There was a noticeable clunk from somewhere under the seat area, when letting the clutch out on the forward shift, so in my opinion something broke internally.
Haven't tried the PTO yet.

 

[fried1765]

I don't believe an adjustment will fix the problem. The clutch is new, and was adjusted when installed.
There was a noticeable clunk from somewhere under the seat area, when letting the clutch out on the forward shift, so in my opinion something broke internally.
Haven't tried the PTO yet.

Judging from the light, but solid, clunk that I heard, I am thinking that the clutch fork may have let go.
Is clutch fork failure a common issue for a manual transmission?

 

[fried1765]

Does sound like a clutch problem. Does the bottom half of the clutch pedal throw engage/disengage the PTO?
Might try some clutch adjustment before you split it...http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/new-holland-owning-operating/176639-ford-1920-pto-clutch-fun.html. Likely hafta remove the loader mount to get to the access hole in clutch housing.

Due to the fact that I heard a metal to meal clunk, I never did believe that any type of clutch adjustment would work.
Tractor has now been split, and problem was that a clutch finger bolt/nut broke, and dropped into the bottom of the housing.
This was a (Chinese) aftermarket clutch from reliableaftermarketparts.com, and had been in use for less than 2 hours.
The new, aftermarket clutch release bearing was also trashed.
No more aftermarket tractor driveline parts for me.
Sure wish I had followed my instincts, and bought a new clutch from Messick's instead!

 

[kirkawilson]

When I replaced my NH 1920 clutch in 2011, my 'tractor man' gave me the option of a 'rebuilt' clutch or a 'new' OEM replacement for an additional $300. Fortunately, I opted for the more expensive 'new' clutch that has been solid since (I just knocked on wood). When it comes to drive train components, it seldom pays to scrimp on parts. Sorry you had the double-split...hope the aftermarket clutch supplier makes it right with you.