Ford 1720 neutral switch

[glbrooks]

I have a 1989 Ford 1720. It requires the transmission to be in neutral before it will start. While its been getting worse over the past year, now its very hard to get it to start. I believe its the neutral switch. If I play with it enough...moving it around in neutral, it will sometime start just fine. I replaced the solenoid last year so I'm pretty sure the neutral switch is failing. I don't know where to look for this switch or relay. If anyone has any ideas or pointers on how I can find it I would greatly appreciate it.

 

[TractorTech]

It sounds like the neutral switch and usually the higher wear part. It could just need an adjustment. In either case, the switch is located on the steering column shift linkage, pn: SBA385202900

Item #11 in the illustration.

 

[glbrooks]

Thanks TractorTech, I took apart the panel to get to the part you described. I tightened the bolt for the clamp and now all seems to work fine. Thanks for your advice.

 

[AlbionWood]

Can you come over and fix mine too? I took the whole works apart a while back, cleaned up the reed switch and everything, reassembled and it still requires jiggling the shifter to get it to start. Sometimes takes quite a lot of jiggling.

 

[gayling]

Our neutral switch that has gone bad is attached in front of the gas tank and firewall.

 

[TractorTech]

Our neutral switch that has gone bad is attached in front of the gas tank and firewall.

Do you have a 1720?

 

[skyhook]

Do you have a 1720?

Under his name, it states he does.

 

[TractorTech]

Under his name, it states he does.

Skyhook, Gayling was not the original poster so that is why I was verifiying.

 

[skyhook]

sorry about that...

 

[glbrooks]

Since I tightened the bolt back in Apr 2013 the neutral switch seems to have worked well until the last month or so. I believe I need to take the front panel back apart and try to adjust again. It takes a long time to finally start and I'm worried I'm going to get stuck out in the woods. Based on the diagram from TractorTech in this thread I believe I can find the right part. I don't know the secret other than make sure the bold is tight. Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks for all input on this.

 

[TractorTech]

GL, when you say it takes a long time to start, do you mean finding the sweet spot in the linkage to get the starter to turn over or is the engine turning over and just not firing? Does jostling the linkage get it stated?

 

[glbrooks]

Hello TractorTech - it takes a long time to find the sweet spot in the linkage so the engine will crank but when I do it cranks and starts with no problem. If I move the linkage around enough it is good to go. I think I need to open the panel again and see if I can tighten or play with the neutral switch again. Thanks for you help.

 

[glbrooks]

An update on my Ford 1720 neutral switch. I took it completely off, sprayed it with some WD40, moved it around a bit and put it back. Now all seems to work ok. Maybe I got lucky but for now it is working. Here are some pics of the effort 1)taking the tractor front panel off 2)locating and removing the switch (2 screws and unplug it from the connector) and 3)spraying the switch with WD40. , ,

 

[grcutter]

Hi Yall,
I know this is a really old thread but since this switch is now really expensive I thought I would share my recent repair experience.
I have a 1920 but from the looks of it, the switch on the 1720 is the same.
The basic construction of the switch has a 2mm diameter copper cylinder, about 6mm in length that is held in a slot and pushed on by a spring. When the shifter moves to the neutral position, this cylinder comes in contact with a very small metal detente that is attached to one of the wires. The other wire is attached to a much larger copper plane.
Over time, this small detente wears into the copper cylinder and eventually wears so much that it fails to make contact. It wears a groove into the cylinder.
But all is not lost.
The switch can be opened and the copper cylinder can be flipped 180 and it will make contact again.
The switch needs to be out of the tractor to do this. Note the orientation of the switch before you remove it.
Pull back the rubber boot to reveal the wire contacts and the insulating board.
There are 3 tabs that hold an insulating board with the wires to the metal part of the switch. Use a small screw driver to pry these back.
When removing the board with the wires be sure that it is facing upwards. The copper cyclinder and an internal ball bearing are spring loaded so open slowly over something that will catch them should they spring out.
The copper cylinder can be cleaned up with some very fine sand paper. The detente should be cleaned up too but not with sand paper, use an old tooth brush. This detente hardly sticks out to begin with so don't sand it down. On the copper cylinder, you'll likely find a groove that the detente wore into it. Be sure that this groove is not in the same position when you put the cylinder back. You need to flip 180. Since the detente is not in the center of the cylinder, the 180 flip will provide a new full diameter surface to contact.
Put the insulating piece with the wires back in the same orientation and then bend back the 3 tabs that were pried open. Use pliers to bend then back all the way and provide a bit of pressure.
Pull back the rubber boot over the insulating board.
The switch should have some new life now.