I think I'd be checking the injectors while you're checking things. If it's putting out blue smoke it could mean that they were not set right. Also if the engine has been rebuilt and doesn't have the correct compression it can blow blue smoke as well. As for the engine dying, is there a fuel lift pump on there somewhere that may be bad? Pump timing shouldn't be that much of a problem unless it's way off. On one tractor it somehow slipped about 6 or 7 degrees retarded and I really couldn't tell a whole lot of difference. Actually now it's running at 8 degrees advanced (on purpose with some engineering) and the only difference is that it idles real loose sounding. I would lean towards something maybe with the injectors since using another pump does nearly the same thing. You can get an injector tester from amazon that works pretty good instead of paying someone $$$ to test the injectors. Just be careful of the fuel that comes out - it is under extreme presure!
Thanks for any and all suggestions, turns out I finally SOLVED the issue. Turns out the previous owner mechanic either did did not install the original pump correctly (OR, I found a vapor hose, where there should have been a fuel injection hose?) after rebuilding engine.
So they ordered a rebuilt or "used" pump thinking the original was defective. They did NOT install 2nd Fuel Injection Pump correctly.
I decided to reinstall the original pump (4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive tractors have slightly different plunger assemblies in pump, it is unknown whether this will cause significant issues)
The tricky part NOT INCLUDED in the service manual on the Ford 1500 (Shibaura SD1840) is that the pump shaft will "spin" down when you remove the pump.
When reinstalling, (assuming you followed the manual and previously set gears at valve timing marks and then rotated engine counter clockwise to "Pump timing" marks correctly) there is a small indentation in pump gear coupling (Hub) You have to use a screwdriver in this indentation and rotate the coupling (Hub) counterclockwise, to line up the factory marks on gear & coupling at about 12 oclock. You have to rotate SLOW to find the small flat spot, otherwise it will "spin" back down. Once you find that small flat spot it will stay and you can tighten the gear bolts in the slotted gear.
I also had to re adjust the governor adjustment bolt on top of pump, as the previous owner & mechanic must have tried adjusting in their mis-diagnosis of problem; before they attempted to replace this pump.
Rick at Seattle Injector service helped me out with some good advice with this pump, took a quick look at it, operating the cam, looking at the piston spring action (Under Side cover) and told me the original pump appeared A-OK and he was right. (We did not hook up to machine or calibrate which would have cost $200-$300)
GOOD NEWS is that this tractor now runs great! No longer blows blue smoke either. Hope this helps someone in future.. let me know..
looks like I have an extra Fuel Injection pump for sale.. off of a Shibaura SD1800 (2 wheel drive) It MIGHT work on a Ford 1500 or Shibaura SD1840 <4 wheel drive> as well?
