Ford 1310 - no power, need wiring diagram

[CliffordK]

I have a Ford 1715 which may be similar.

There is a lockout mechanism on the clutch, and possibly the PTO. Anyway, check that the clutch sensor is properly connected if your tractor has one. I believe that it can be temporarly bypassed with a loop of wire from the in to out connections too.

You should be able to verify that it cranks over fine by touching the big terminal to the little terminal on the starter motor/selenoid using a screwdriver or something similar. Expect a little spark, of course, but the starter should start cranking over.

The big terminal on the starter, of course, should have power 100% of the time.

To bypass the ignition switch for the starter on a longterm basis, you can put a switch between the two terminals on the starter... You probably want to choose an intermittant on switch, rather than an on/off switch.

This wouldn't affect any other electronics which may be required for fuel & etc.

 

[ROUNDBABY]

Dagged my tractor out of the woods backards up to the house while the bucket dragged the ground a little and took starter off. It's been acting up for a while not engaging the flwheel so that needs done anyhow. I put a test light on the little white wire that comes from the ignition switch and dad turned the key as i held the test probe into the metal plug and light didn't come on. IS THAT A BAD WIRE, BAD IGNITION SWITCH, OR NEAUTRL SWITCH AND HOW CAN I RULE OUT EACH ONE WITH A LIGHT TESTER??

 

[mostly_gas]

Here is the wiring diagram. the clutch switch completes a circuit for the safety relay so check for complete circuit when clutch is depressed. If the switch is good you have to check out the safety relay and the ignition switch. If you have a remote starter switch you can use it to check operation of solenoid. I find an ohmmeter more useful than a test light as you can tell is you are getting battery voltage ore not on the wires you are checking.

 

[ROUNDBABY]

THANKS FOR THE WIRING DIGRAHM--MOSTLY-GAS. I GOT THE STARTER OFF YESTERDAY AND TOOK IT TO A RELIABLE PLACE THAT SPECIALIZES IN STARTER REBUILDING AND VEHICLE ELECTICAL PROBLEMS-STAR ELECTRIC. THEY SAID THE STARTER NEEDED NEW BRUSHES AND SELENOID NEEDED NEW CLUTCH AND BENDICKS TO ENGAGE FLYWHEEL. I TOOK ALL THE BURRS OFF THE FLYWHEEL BY TURNING FLYWHEEL GRADUALLY WITH SCREWDRIVER AND CHARGED BATTERY WHILE STARTER WAS GETTING DONE. I STILL THOUGHT IT WAS THE SWITCH IGNITION WIRE TO THE SELENOID OR SWITCH ITSELF WOULD BE STILL MY PROBLEM SINCE I HAD CHECKED THE LITTLE WIRE THAT PLUGS ONTO SELENOID. SO THEY CALLED THIS EVENING AND I PUT THE STARTER BACK AND USED A SMALL WIRE BRUSH AND ROUND FILES TO GET RID OF COROSION ON STARTER NUTS AND BATTERY CONNECTORS. WWAALAA IT WAS JUST THE STARTER PROBLEM--I HAVEN'T HEARD MY FORD 1310 TRACTOR CRANK SO GOOD IN THREE YEARS. I ALSO HAD ORDERED A AIR FILTER THRU EBAY AND IT CAME TODAY AND TOMORROW I CAN GET CAUGHT UP ON MY LOGGDRAGGING, ROADSCRAPPING , APPLE PRUNING, AND BUSHHOGGING IF THEY'RES ENOUGH DAYLIGHT. I LOVE MY TRACTOR!!

 

[kc5sii]

Correct me if I'm wrong. But if you have power to the white wire going into the starter the neutral safety switch circuit is working properly and you likely have a starter or solenoid issue. So, A person should be able to apply power to the white solenoid terminal starter will enguage... as a test. Right?

Dave

 

[ROUNDBABY]

YES YOU'RE RIGHT. THE STARTER WAS THE CULPRIT AND HAD BEEN NEEDING FIXED FOR A WHILE. THE STARTER AFTER REDOING THE BRUSHES AND BENDIX GEAR WOULD SPIN SOMETIMES AND HAVE A ABRUPT STOP AT END OF SPINNING. GOT THE MAIN MAN TO COME DOWM AND HE HEARD THIS STRANGE SOUND AND SAID I BELIEVE HE WOULD ORDER THE STARTER INTERIOR GEAR ON THE BENDIX CLUTCH ASSEMBLY AND THAT SHOULD CURE IT ONCE AND FOR ALL. A WEEK LATER I TOOK THE STARTER BACK OFF FOR THE 3rd TIME AND LET THEM PUT IT BACK TOGETHER AFTER THIS PART CAME IN AT NO ADDITIONAL COST. HADN'T HAD ANY TROUBLES SINCE ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO. I CAN PLOW ALL MY FIELDS NOW AND MAKE THAT GOOD OLE MONEY OFF THE PRODUCE.