Ford 1210 tear down and repair

[Asymair95]

Thank you guys. Where did you get your attachments from? I would like to get a carry all, landscape rake, box blade, and rotary mower. I think that would cover all my needs. I've only really looked at northern tool, EA, and tractor supply.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

 

[fried1765]

Thank you guys. Where did you get your attachments from? I would like to get a carry all, landscape rake, box blade, and rotary mower. I think that would cover all my needs. I've only really looked at northern tool, EA, and tractor supply.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

Over time, check for specials with Rural King, and Blaine's Farm & Fleet.
Neither of those sellers is near you, and were not near me either, but I watched for them each to have specials (Northern Tool has specials too).
Sometimes shipping cost is prohibitive, but sometimes it is not. Their websites will allow you to determine shipping cost before ordering.
I bought 3 of my King Cutter attachments from Blaine's Farm & Fleet, and for each purchase their shipping cost was very reasonable ( I am 250 mi. East of you)
Blaine's is headquartered in Janesville, Wisconsin.
Their website will probably list everything you are looking for.
If you check periodically, over the next 4 months or so, you will likely find that good deals will pop up on King Kutter implements, at Blaine's.

 

[Asymair95]

Ok thank you, will check it out.

 

[Asymair95]

Got to use the tractor for the first time today. Some good news, not so good news, and some observations.

I maintain our 1/2 mile dirt road. Had lots of pot holes and wash board. I've been using a landscape drag which is basically a few pieces of angle iron welded into a diamond shape with a drawbar welded on. I had about 250lbs of block on it for ballast. It pulled fine on the level portions of the road, but if I had any kind of dirt in the landscape drag and was going uphill I had traction problems. One of the tires has calcium in it, the other does not. Finding weights for these rims is near impossible because they are of a three bolt mount design.

Second issue was with the steering. With dirt in the drag I noticed the front end would get light. When I would turn around at the end of the road the tires would slide and the tractor would continue to go straight. I had three suitcase weights on the front. When I got back to the shop I added the two other weights to try and help this situation.



When attaching the weights I noticed oil on the front axle. Closer inspection revealed a front main seal leak...bummer. My Brother said to loosen the fan belt a little. He has seen that work in the past on cars.

Last issue was the electrical system. With the engine running and lights off the voltage sits at 13.8v but when I turn on the lights the voltage drops to slightly below 12v. I suspect a faulty voltage regulator. When I took it apart for cleaning there was some corrosion in there. Thinking something is roached inside.

Good news is the engine runs great, three point and quick hitch work awesome, water pump doesn't leak, and clutch seems to work fine.

Overall I'm happy with the tractor, just some bugs to work out.

 

[Btown]

The 1210 is a pretty light tractor. Weight helps a lot with traction. My old Ford 1700 was pretty light too. Pushing snow with it it would go all over the place or just spin the tires. I'm sure the turf tires are not helping with traction. Glad to see it out there working. Hopefully you'll get the bugs worked out.

 

[sld]

The 3 weight limit was for the front wheel assist tractors I believe. It just dawned on me that yours is 2wd. Extra weight shouldn't hurt a bit.

The FWD version does help these little tractors quite a bit.

 

[City Farmer]

Was the diff. lock still engaged when you were turning? Sometimes the lever will stick when it hasn't been used in a while. I haven't had the need to make adjustments to a v-regulator on any of my tractor's (yet) but the service manual covers it.

 

[sld]

Was the diff. lock still engaged when you were turning? Sometimes the lever will stick when it hasn't been used in a while. I haven't had the need to make adjustments to a v-regulator on any of my tractor's (yet) but the service manual covers it.

That's a good point. There is very little steering happening with the rears locked.

In fact, using the rear brakes is a very good way to steer when the fronts aren't cooperating.

 

[Asymair95]

Excellent point guys. I don't think the diff lock was engaged, but I can't say for certain. I did notice it was a bit stiff though when I was using it. Will make note next time.

I didn't think of using the independent brakes to help me around, will remember that on my next road grooming adventure.

I did see the adjustment section on the regulator in the manual. I'm thinking the corrosion really messed things up inside though. Two of the breaker points had full scale rust on them, I was shocked it actually charged at all.

I have a coupon for tractor supply this week, so will be picking up a carry all and some lumber. I think I'm going to make the wood deck removable so I can use the carry all to move pallets too.

 

[sld]

When we first got the 1210 in 1986 I ran a heavy disc over about 3 acres around the house to prep for grass seed. It was so heavy that if it was lifted off the ground and I let the clutch out it would lift the front tires off the ground by 2 feet or more. Worked good with it down and the tractor pulled it fine.

When I got to the end of a row I would lift it up, pop clutch and hit the inside rear brake. That thing would turn on a dime and after spinning 180 degrees I would let the disc down and proceed to grind up the next row. That was cool!