Food Plot Implements

/ Food Plot Implements #1  

drivadesl

Gold Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2007
Messages
288
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
Tractor
New Holland TN-70A, Kubota U-35 Mini-Ex,SCAG Wild Cat, Cub Cadet 109
Let me preface my question with the understanding that I'm new at all this so will tell you as much as I can.* I recently took delivery of a new NH TN-70 (will post pics when available) which I want to use for establishing deer food plots on some hunting property.* I've researched this somewhat, and have ordered some how to books on deer management, and starting food plots.* There are some small old fields which are beginning to turn back to woods, but majority of property is wooded. I plan to start with the fields, and build from there.* I realize I need to get a soil test also.* Main question is what equipment do I really need?* Seems working a plow, disc and cultipacker or harrow is pretty standard way to work the ground.* The fields are pretty rough, small saplings and overgrowth, and I'm sure some rocks though not sure to what degree. Area gets enough rain in spring, pretty dry in the summer.* I want to start small only a couple acres to start and get my feet wet.* What kind/size of plow do I need, size of disc?* Do I need a subsoiler to dig up roots and rocks before I plow? What about a sprayer, or fertilizer spreader?* I am very new to this, so I appreciate whatever input can be offered.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #2  
Since you're working relatively small fields, there's no need to get the absolute biggest equipment your tractor can handle. In fact, you'd probably get a better job with equipment that's a bit smaller than the maximum. Big equipment in small confined areas is awkward at best.

That tractor will EASILY handle a 3-bottom plow. 3X14" 's would be "enough" in my opinion, considering the amount of acreage you would be working. Subsoiling in rocky ground can be benificial OR it can open up a real can o' worms. I'm not sold on the idea of subsoiling unless you HAVE to. Your tractor would easily handle a 12' to 14' disc, but mobility on a wooded piece of land would be limited by that width. I'd go with 8' to 10' in a VERY heavy model of disc, one that would be capable of working as a stand-alone tillage tool, should you decide not to plow. That may be the best case if you're in really rocky country.

How and what are you going to PLANT? Corn? That needs a planter and corn needs fertilizer. So, possibly a planter and a fert. spreader. How about a crop like clover? Grass crops? You can broadcast them with the fertilizer spreader. So, a fertilizer spreader would be high on the list. A 2 or 4 row planter, depending on what crop you'll be wanting to put in. Again, with the acreage you're looking at, think small and mobile. You COULD use a big planter, but I'd stay with something relatively small for access to your fields in tight quarters. If you do row crops (ie corn) you'll need a cultivator for weed control OR go with a roundup ready seed and spray for weed control. With most of the normally accepted "food plot crops" you will be well served to run over the field with a cultipacker after seeding to firm the seedbed and press the seed in for good soil contact.

Also, there's a few very versatile no-till drills on the market that are capable of planting just about any crop. They can be used in tilled ground too. With a no-till system, you COULD do a spray burn down on the weeds/grass and no-till plant without all the plowing, discing, ect. Based on my experiences farming, THAT is the way I'd go personally. Less fuel, less time, less possibility of erosion, and just as good (if not BETTER) crops. No-till would require a decent sprayer and a planter. I'm only vaguely familiar with farming practices in your area. I would suggest contacting your local county AG extention service to get their take on no-tilling, and cropping in general. Accepted practice in my part of the country may be all wrong for conditions in yours. (I understand no-tilling isn't quite as popular or successful in more northern climates with shorter growing seasons and colder, wetter springtime soil conditions)


Hmmm. I've probably raised more questions that I've provided answers.
 
/ Food Plot Implements
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Thanks FWJ for taking the time to reply. I had the same feeling in terms of implement sizes thinking with the tight quarters, I would stay in the smaller to medium sizes. I didn't plan on planting corn or row crops, but was considering grasses, or clover. I've got to do some more research as to what will take well to the area (eastern catskills) and the ground I'm working. I'm not familiar with a "no-till drill" maybe someone can explain what it does and how it works. Also, if I'm reclaiming overgrown ground, and need a plow, what brands should I look for? King cutter is available close by, though it looks like they only make a 2 bottom. Is my tractor to big for that? Also, who makes a decent spray rig? How big a tank, and what kind of pump flow rate? I'm always looking used but haven't seen anything and would rather go new since I wouldn't know whats good or not otherwise. Good idea on calling the local AG office to get input, I'll try that tomorrow. Anyone else have any info to share?
 
/ Food Plot Implements #4  
My plan of "attack" would be first Brush hog shortly after that, spray round up wait two weeks apply fert, lime as needed then disk and Broadcast your seed then if possible roll.

Needs would be
1-Brush hog
2-sprayer (I like atv sprayers)
3-Disk
4-Broadcaster type spreader (wash thouroghly after using lime&fert)
5-Roller or cultipacker or drag harrow. I have used a piece of temporary fence pannel for this same purpose for many years with great results it also is great for breaking up the clods and smoothing the plots

I would not expect great results the first year mainly because of the woody debri and weed stalks decomposing

I have plowed and will never plow again! Way too rough! In the fall I use a tiller because the ground is to hard and dry. New foodplots that had saplings and trees in I would not use a tiller, too many roots to get twisted up in the tiller.

I am cheap, no fancy (expensive) equipment for me. I have planted corn by broadcasting then discing in, but I could not spray to controll weeds the atv would have smashed them down my boom sprayer is/was only 7foot wide as a result my corn grew 6ft tall but the ears looked like short cigars.

Food plots are alot of fun when the weather cooperates!!
 
/ Food Plot Implements #5  
drivadesl said:
Thanks FWJ for taking the time to reply. I had the same feeling in terms of implement sizes thinking with the tight quarters, I would stay in the smaller to medium sizes. I didn't plan on planting corn or row crops, but was considering grasses, or clover. I've got to do some more research as to what will take well to the area (eastern catskills) and the ground I'm working. I'm not familiar with a "no-till drill" maybe someone can explain what it does and how it works. Also, if I'm reclaiming overgrown ground, and need a plow, what brands should I look for? King cutter is available close by, though it looks like they only make a 2 bottom. Is my tractor to big for that? Also, who makes a decent spray rig? How big a tank, and what kind of pump flow rate? I'm always looking used but haven't seen anything and would rather go new since I wouldn't know whats good or not otherwise. Good idea on calling the local AG office to get input, I'll try that tomorrow. Anyone else have any info to share?

Your tractor would devour a 2-bottom plow! It would handle 3 with ease, and MAYBE a 4 bottom depending on what sort of ground you have. I'd stay with 3-bottoms on that tractor. I'd suggest a Ford model 101 or simular, including Massey and Oliver. I've don't have much negative to say about John Deere EXCEPT for their plows. Never liked 'em myself. Good luck finding a GOOD new plow. They just don't exist with the exception of very expensive imports or the KK/Howse/ect plows that aren't quite what I'd call a quality plow.

No tilling is just what it implies. You spray the weeds and grass with (for instance) roundup to kill it, then a no till planter simply knives the seed into the dead sod. Minimal fuel usage, and with proper conditions, just as good, sometimes even BETTER crop yields. I'm finding that no tilling isn't nearly as popular in northern states. It's the biggest thing going in this part of the country. Most grain crops are grown notill. A great bit of forage grass's and such are no tilled here too.


Also, check with these fine folks on wildlife habitat info.

Quail Unlimited®—Leading the Charge to Restore and Perpetuate Wild Quail in North America


Click on habitat and go through all their programs. Very helpfull.

Also, check with these folks.

National Conservation Organization - Whitetails Unlimited » SHOP ONLINE
 
/ Food Plot Implements #6  
The thing you need right away is a 6ft med or heavy duty brush hog. Next would be a 8 ft disk, then a cultipacker, broadcast spreader and a 3X14" plow. Use winter wheat or rye as your first crop (fall planted) and lime your soil until you get the right ph. The following late summer, get white clover in all your plots. Maintain the clover for 4-5 years with the brush hog. During that time, search for a 2-row corn planter with fertilizer attachments so you can take advantage of all the nitrogen your clover has stored with the best gun-season deer attracting crop there is - field corn. You will be missing the boat if you dont plant some corn after a few years of clover. Plant the corn around the 5th year where the grass in the clover is the thickest and keep around 75% of your acreage in clover each year. The corn will actually rejuvinate the clover plot the following year (providing you skip the atrazine and roundup - control weeds with a cultivator) by sucking out all the nitrogen and making it difficult for the grass to compete. You will also want a 2-row cultivator of course (or a 4-row if you choose to get a 4-row planter which is a lot less handy for food plots, but much easier to find cheap). Skip the sprayer, because I think herbicide use on foodplots is a bad idea, especially if you like the venison, and if you get all the equipment I suggested, you will not need any. Crop rotation as suggested, mowing, and cultivating will do a fine job on weed control.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #7  
Do a few plots here. If you have overgrown vegetation a mower would work to get rid of saplings and grass. It would be best in late fall to do this and then plow it up for spring.

Personally I would not want a moldboard plow for CRP. They don't have the trash clearance for what you are doing. They also take a long time to cover a lot of ground. I would get a chisel plow of some type for primary tillage.

Secondary tillage would be a disk of whatever size you can pull. A 3pt disk of 8' or so would be a good start. An International Harvester disk is the best you can buy with any age on it. They make model 37 and later 370 in 12' or so sizes in pull type. That is the best disk money can buy in that size. JD disks work but they ridge in the center and the disk bearings are expensive. The IH disk used the same bearings and blades for years and are cheap. The wider the disk the better the finish within reason. You should size one to go 5mph or so. Any faster and they throw dirt and ridge.

You can buy a 2 or 4 row planter for plots. Guy here makes them out of old JD row unit. In fact I just bought a 2 row today for this. You should look at buying a 4 row 3pt mount like I have. You can cover a lot of ground with it and it's easy to use and transport.

A 3pt spreader would be next for use in broadcasting fertilizer and small seeds.

I wouldn't worry about the soil test. For corn get about 80 lbs of nitrogen out there or so. I use 150-200 in commercial production but the first year you should be fine with 80lbs. Remember fertilizer is VERY expensive right now. You can get a 20-10-10 in bags or go to a fert. dealer and get Urea which is 46-0-0. The first number is percent of nitrogen, second phosphorus, third potassium. Since you probably won't be removing much from the soil you should just concentrate on Nitrogen. If you wanted 92 lbs of nitrogen you would use 200 lbs. to the acre of Urea. 46X2=92 for example. Just have to work the Urea in to the soil after spreading or it can volatilize.

Good luck.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #8  
Disc, spreader, and a sprayer will get you started. If you want a planter just do a search for corn planter on ebay. A bunch will come up. What part of the country are you in and what is the normal forage, the deer eat. That will help determine what you want to plant to attract deer. Make sure you have a source of water near by or you can forget about deer hanging out.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #9  
You're going to get more opinions on this than you would with religion or politics.

Here is what I have: 45hp 4wd tractor, 14" 2 bottom plow, 7' disk, access to a spreader.

All of my plots were cleared by me. They were scrub and planted pines. So, I cleared the 'trees' with the FEL, stumps and all. Then mow what I can (I have a light duty mower).

Then, I used my boxblade teeth to rip a little and then spread seed and fertilizer and then used a homemade chain harrow. This worked perfectly well for a couple of years.

Then I got the equipment listed above. I highly recommend plowing new ground. My 45hp tractor handles the 2 bottom plow with ease. Once the field is turned, then I disk it and this really makes a good seed bed for most things. My clay and rocks now looks a litttle bit like soil. What you plant is up to you.

I have not tried spraying anything. Too expensive for my blood.

Get soils testing done, or do it yourself. You can get kits from the feed&seed and it is very easy to do it yourself and much quicker.

Lime is a huge pain in the rear. It is corrosive, often doesn't spread well, its dusty, etc etc. I do it myself and deal with it, but if your fields are big enough (mine are not) then get a truck in to lime it for you.

And don't get too worked up about all the different opinions you will get, no matter how heated or strong they are. bottom line is that anything you do is better than nothing. Start slow. Try different things. Learn from your mistakes and your successes. Don't break the bank. And remember, no matter what you do, in the end, mother nature will decide how well your food plots do.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #10  
All good answers here. I am a food plotter myself. I use my ATV as much as tractor for liming, fertilizing, seeding, spraying etc. It comes in real handy.

The best advice I can give above and beyond whats already been done is visit the QDMA forums. There is so much good advice your head will spin! :)

QDMA Forums - Powered by vBulletin
 
/ Food Plot Implements #11  
If you are not planting corn, beans, etc., but sticking with small seeds/grasses, the top of the line equipment is from Truax. Truax Seed Planting Equipment
They make equipment especially designed for planting native grasses and other small seeded plants that need to be planted very shallowly. Also, native grasses have seeds that are often designed for dispersal by wind or by sticking to a passing animal, so these seeds don't flow well from a seed box. Truax's machines physically pull the seeds from the boxes and send them down drop tubes to planting wheels whose depth is controlled by bands welded to the wheels. They have no-till options as well, and you can order warm-season/large grain boxes as an option. These drills are costly. Kasko makes a similar implement.
Around here, feeding deer is like feeding starlings, there are way too many already, but quail, rabbits, non-game songbirds, etc. are another story. There are federal programs that pay to put in habitat for these animals. Various farm bill programs (CREP, CRP, WHIP, etc.) pay for or cost-share implementations of native habitats. State Fish and Wildlife and NRCS will make free site visits, help you draw up plans, and may loan equipment or assist with the implementation, so I would suggest you contact your regional NY DEC office or NRCS office.
Chemical burn-down followed by no-till drilling is certainly the cheapest way to go when you take into account fuel and time. Also probably the best for the environment.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #12  
My B-I-L recently had to plant his pastures in grasses due to the drought and lack of hay. He has a large no-till-drill (I don't remember who made it), I think it is about an 8 footer, has two hoppers. He ran that thing through his unprepared pastures with whatever he could buy (oats, wheat, rye) and I am amazed how good a result he got. Of course there fields got a liberal dose of turkey poop too.

I'm not sure how such a drill would do on rough or rocky terrain, plus it is a pull-type and could be hard to manuevre in small plots. I might consider running it down my woods roads though.

I think no-till planting is the best, but drills like his and similar equipment cost way more than a disk and a spreader.

P.S.: However, it seems that he got quite a deal on it through some county ag co-op or ag program.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #13  
N80 said:
My B-I-L recently had to plant his pastures in grasses due to the drought and lack of hay. He has a large no-till-drill (I don't remember who made it), I think it is about an 8 footer, has two hoppers. He ran that thing through his unprepared pastures with whatever he could buy (oats, wheat, rye) and I am amazed how good a result he got. Of course there fields got a liberal dose of turkey poop too.

I'm not sure how such a drill would do on rough or rocky terrain, plus it is a pull-type and could be hard to manuevre in small plots. I might consider running it down my woods roads though.

I think no-till planting is the best, but drills like his and similar equipment cost way more than a disk and a spreader.

P.S.: However, it seems that he got quite a deal on it through some county ag co-op or ag program.

Two of the more common brands of grass drills around these parts are Tye and Haybuster. I've rented a Haybuster drill before and dang near talked myself into buying one. If you're planting much acreage or doing so with any regularity, the savings in time and fuel will soon pay the cost of spray equipment and the seeder.
 
/ Food Plot Implements #14  
drivadesl said:
Let me preface my question with the understanding that I'm new at all this so will tell you as much as I can.* I recently took delivery of a new NH TN-70 (will post pics when available) which I want to use for establishing deer food plots on some hunting property.* I've researched this somewhat, and have ordered some how to books on deer management, and starting food plots.* There are some small old fields which are beginning to turn back to woods, but majority of property is wooded. I plan to start with the fields, and build from there.* I realize I need to get a soil test also.* Main question is what equipment do I really need?* Seems working a plow, disc and cultipacker or harrow is pretty standard way to work the ground.* The fields are pretty rough, small saplings and overgrowth, and I'm sure some rocks though not sure to what degree. Area gets enough rain in spring, pretty dry in the summer.* I want to start small only a couple acres to start and get my feet wet.* What kind/size of plow do I need, size of disc?* Do I need a subsoiler to dig up roots and rocks before I plow? What about a sprayer, or fertilizer spreader?* I am very new to this, so I appreciate whatever input can be offered.
Based on some experience, what you need is going to depend on what you plan to plant, small seed like clovers, a cultipacker is almost a have to have, the basics I started with was a all purpose plow, a set of cutting harrows, and a seven foot length of power pole wrapped with chain link fence, ah, those were the days!! LOL
 
/ Food Plot Implements #15  
drivadesl said:
Let me preface my question with the understanding that I'm new at all this so will tell you as much as I can.* I recently took delivery of a new NH TN-70 (will post pics when available) which I want to use for establishing deer food plots on some hunting property.* I've researched this somewhat, and have ordered some how to books on deer management, and starting food plots.* There are some small old fields which are beginning to turn back to woods, but majority of property is wooded. I plan to start with the fields, and build from there.* I realize I need to get a soil test also.* Main question is what equipment do I really need?* Seems working a plow, disc and cultipacker or harrow is pretty standard way to work the ground.* The fields are pretty rough, small saplings and overgrowth, and I'm sure some rocks though not sure to what degree. Area gets enough rain in spring, pretty dry in the summer.* I want to start small only a couple acres to start and get my feet wet.* What kind/size of plow do I need, size of disc?* Do I need a subsoiler to dig up roots and rocks before I plow? What about a sprayer, or fertilizer spreader?* I am very new to this, so I appreciate whatever input can be offered.

I'm not doing a food plot per se, but I am renovating about 7 acres of pastureland into a hayfield. The equipment I'm assembling is pretty much what food plot folks use.

Tractors: I have a new Mahindra 5525 gear tractor (55 hp engine, 45 hp pto) with the ML 250 FEL (6-ft bucket) and a 1964 MF-135 diesel (45 hp engine, 37 hp pto). I bought a new 6-ft Hawkline rotary mower (aka brush hog) to use with the 5525 ($1150)

Plow: bought an old IH 2-14 Little Genius pull plow a few months ago ($350).

DSCF0118Medium.jpg


Disc: I have an old 7-ft Ferguson tandem disk ($200)

DSCF0003Small.jpg


and an old 6-ft Towner offset disc (a gift from one of my neighbors). They're easy to fix up. Replacement blades are inexpensive at AgriSupply.

DSCF0063-smallSmallSmall.jpg


Seeder/planter: don't have anything yet. But I can go with either a broadcast seeder (~$500 new from TSC) or a small (10-ft wide) grain drill. I'm leaning toward a used grain drill and expect to pay under $1K for it. But a broadcast seeder is OK for initial seeding since the seed wasteage associated with broadcasting 7 acres is not an economic show stopper. For later overseeding a grain drill is a good choice.

Cultipacker: bought a used 8-ft cultipacker today ($600) and it's in excellent shape

DSCF0085Small.jpg


So it's possible for you to get a nice selection of pre-owned implements for around $3K to do your food plot.

I, on the other hand, don't have the beasts of the forest to do my harvesting so I need more equipment than you require.

I have a nice 1950s-vintage Allis Chalmers 6-ft trailer type sicklebar mower ($150)

DSCF0068Small.jpg


and will pick up a used JD side deliver hay rake tomorrow ($800, no pictures yet).

That leaves a tedder and a small square baler on the wish list. The quest continues.
 

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