Folding trailer idea - build or buy?

   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy? #11  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The other idea I had was to simply buy a regular double axle trailer, and store my tractor in my shed *on* the trailer. I would park the trailer with the back end toward the overhead door. That would take up the least floor space of all!)</font>

You may find the front of the trailer might want to lift up when you drive your tractor on it depending on the weight of your tractor, etc. You may be able to fasten a ball to the front wall of your shed however; that way the trailer wouldn't move when you drive the tractor on it.

FWIW: I've had my home-made trailer outside for at least twelve years and the deckboards (Oak) are as solid as the day I put them on. I never painted or treated them in anyway either...
 
   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
You may find the front of the trailer might want to lift up when you drive your tractor on it depending on the weight of your tractor, etc. You may be able to fasten a ball to the front wall of your shed however; that way the trailer wouldn't move when you drive the tractor on it.
)</font>

Or maybe add crank up/down stands at all 4 corners of the trailer to stablilize it during loading/unloading. Or even simpler, use some heavy timber blocks or other cribbing material.

I think I saw crank stands on a trailer once, so the trailer could be left unattached to the tow vehicle (i.e. dropped off at a job site), and the implement loaded/unloaded safely on/off the stabilized deck.

I could certainly park the trailer outside and not worry about all of this. I just prefer to have things inside, and the property neat looking and orderly whenever possible.
 
   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy? #13  
   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy? #14  
Why would you want to store your trailer inside?

Even if you build one to fold down to eight feet, you still have an 8ft trailer in your barn to deal with.

Parking your tractor on a trailer inside a barn so it can be inside also doesn't make much sense. Why deal with it? You'd have to have ramps, the toungue would stick out, and your'd have a full size trailer in your barn to deal with.

A decent 16ft trailer is under a grand. Most spend decades outside with no damage other then minor rust where the paint is scratched off.

Sorry, I just don't get it.

Eddie
 
   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Why would you want to store your trailer inside? )</font>

1) property aesthetics

2) protection from the elements, electrical connector corrosion, effects of UV on rubber and plastic parts, gets dirty, etc.

3) theft deterrence

4) in the winter, I don't have to dig it out of the snow and ice prior to use
 
   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy? #16  
No 2 is very much under rated. With all the rain and heat in my neck of the woods, nobody can keep a nice trailer for long.

Someone even suggested to park the tractor on the trailer. That would work around here and many nice country areas, but in some areas, it would be like a neon sign saying "come and steal me"!
 
   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy? #18  
You're going to find that your sliding supports that hold the trailer in the open position, are going to be a problem down the road. It's a great design idea, don't get me wrong, however the usual dirt, road salt, and rust are going to get into there, and gradually make it more difficult to slide those supports in and out, thus preventing you from folding and unfolding the trailer.

Anyway, a friend and I built a folding trailer. The front half and the tongue flipped over the back half of the trailer, which was a tandem axle design. I've attached a not-to-scale diagram illustrating how we hinged it, as well as how we kept it flat. The top section is a top view, and the bottom section is a side view. Sorry, my drawing skills are substandard.

The blue section is the front half of the trailer (actually, part of) and the red is the back half of the trailer. We used 2" sq x 0.125" tubing, and the bolts were 1" diameter. When we drilled the bolt holes through the square tubing, we drilled them oversized, then tapped in round tubing with a 1" ID, and welded that tubing to the holes drilled into the square tubing. Ground flat, of course. This tubing acted as a sleeve, so that the loads on the bolt didn't rest right at the head and the bottom of the thread, but rather spread more across the shank of the bolt. This is only important if you want to remove the bolts someday /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

The hinge design puts the bolts into double sheer, rather than single sheer, giving the bolts a chance to have some life expectancy.

The green piece in the bottom half of the image is a bolt on support, one per side, constructed also of 2" square tubing. I believe we used 0.250" wall tubing for that, and again, drilled holes and welded tubing through the bolt holes to act as a bushing. There were six bolts per side, three on the front section, three on the back section.

To fold the trailer up, it was fairly simple. We'd simply unbolt the green section and toss it onto the red section (which had the tandam axles), and fold the blue section (with the tongue) over the red section. Our design was not exactly ideal as we couldn't fold the front section flat over the rear section, but for my friend's purposes, this fit the bill. He was able to shove it into the back of the garge and have space in front of it, which is what he wanted.

I'm sure you could engineer our design a little further to get the front half to fold more flat upon the back half.

Also, it's proper trailer design to do a 60/40 split of the weight, meaning that the axle should be located 60 % of the way back from the front, and 40% forward from the rear. If it's a tandam axle trailer you're building, the centerpoint between the two axles should be at the 60% mark. THis way there is proper weight on the tongue (or gooseneck).

My friend hauled his 70 roadrunner to and from the track for a couple of years with this contraption, until he sold both as a set when his son was born and was instructed to buy diapers instead of car parts!

Good Luck.
 

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   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy?
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Thank you Frederic for your detailed posting and the drawing.

I still think it would be neat to have a folding trailer, but my thoughts are now more toward just buying a conventional dual axle trailer and parking the tractor *on* the trailer. That idea hadn't occurred to me until after I started this post.

I think I'll actually have more room in my shed this way than I would with the folding trailer. I've got plenty of ceiling height so that's not a problem. Since the trailer won't be hitched to a vehicle, I will have to add some stabilizers to the trailer to keep it from moving around as I drive the tractor on and off. Probably just some crank down stands on the 4 corners would be good.

So, at least for my needs, the simple and boring idea has prevailed over the cool and great engineering idea /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Tom
 
   / Folding trailer idea - build or buy? #20  
Oh, you're more than welcome. Just know if you want it to fold flat, you have to rework the hinge area. We discovered that too late unfortunately, and were too lazy to fix it.

The reason for my friend wanting a folding trailer so bad, is that he has a one car garage, which is "baby" goes into, and the trailer sits in front of the garage, and his crewcab sits in front of that, almost hanging into the street. He doesn't have the ceiling height to put the car on the trailer and in the garage, and there is no way he's going to let his car see rain, scorching sun, etc. Not unless he's driving it at that moment.
 

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