countrybumpkin
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How much Fluid will a R4 4.20X70X24 hold. I'm trying to figure the amount of added weight of mine.
Tires Fluid Filled Tires
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BGL990
Gold Member
Here's a chart I found somewhere. Your tire size numbers don't seem to jive with what's on the chart, but maybe it will be of some use ...
Edit: It wouldn't let me attach the HTML file and I wasn't sure if it would work to just cut and paste the HTML code into this message, so I attached it as a .zip file.
Edit: It wouldn't let me attach the HTML file and I wasn't sure if it would work to just cut and paste the HTML code into this message, so I attached it as a .zip file.
jgh
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20050929
It's on Firestone and Goodyear www sites, possibly among others.
Jim
It's on Firestone and Goodyear www sites, possibly among others.
Jim
OP
countrybumpkin
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Sorry for the wrong numbers it sould be 420/70-24
Ran them in a conversion chart cam up with 47.1 x 16.5
Ran them in a conversion chart cam up with 47.1 x 16.5
OP
countrybumpkin
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Thanks , That was about what I was thinking after looking around on some other sites.
With the loader , BH and fluid the tractor weighs 6500 lbs.
With the loader , BH and fluid the tractor weighs 6500 lbs.
Roscoe
New member
Hi, Are you adding fluid in the tyres for better traction?
If the tyres are radials then only dry weights should be added because the traction advantages over a cross ply tyre are lost if a radial has fluid added to it.
I can better explain by saying that , when a cross ply tyre has to go over something like a 2 inch diam stone for example, it will climb up and over it. A radial will tend to fold itself around the object and maintain tread contact with the ground and this is why they have a noticable traction advantage over cross plys.
Adding fluid to a radial stiffens the radial plys so that advantage is lost.
The standard amount of water that is added in this country is up to the top of the rim.
Hope this has been of help.
Cheers
Roscoe
If the tyres are radials then only dry weights should be added because the traction advantages over a cross ply tyre are lost if a radial has fluid added to it.
I can better explain by saying that , when a cross ply tyre has to go over something like a 2 inch diam stone for example, it will climb up and over it. A radial will tend to fold itself around the object and maintain tread contact with the ground and this is why they have a noticable traction advantage over cross plys.
Adding fluid to a radial stiffens the radial plys so that advantage is lost.
The standard amount of water that is added in this country is up to the top of the rim.
Hope this has been of help.
Cheers
Roscoe
jgh
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20051010
Roscoe, you have just made the case, again, for the value of an international list. Very interesting and informative post! I'm not a tire expert but your reasoning makes lots of sense according to what little I know about radials.
I am told by a retired NH service manager that fluid in tires contributes to impact punctures, too. Guessing tells me this is because the fluid and wt 'hardens' them.
On the other hand, given the dilution, I would not be that concerned about explosive hazards with CH4OH or whatever methanol's chem formula is. Though I am not a pro in it, from my minor hs/univ chemistry training and experience I can tell you that any common alcohol with any significant amount of water is hard to ignite. The diesel fuel in the tractor would under most circumstances be more of a hazard in any situation I can imagine. And leaking methanol solution dissapates more quickly and with less risk for harm from a pet/animal hazard standpoint than ethylene glycol, in the event of a leak.
And, BTW, I just realized that the original poster has the same size radials as my tractor. For methanol, I believe the added wt would be about 525-550 lbs per tire if he fills to the rim, more for CaCl2 solution.
A followup for you or anyone who cares to come in--
I have a TN90F New Holland "narrow" style machine, and very rolling terrain on our farm. It has 420/70-24 rear tires with a current tread width (outside) of 72 inches, fairly small for an 80 HP tractor. I've already turned it over once, though some carelessness on my part contributed.
If stability ("hill-ability" if you will, vs traction) is my goal, would your advice still apply? Would you just dish out the wheels (I can go to about 82-84 inches), add wheel wt/front suitcase wts, or both? Any light you can shed on the whys and wherefores would also be welcome.
Thanks!
Jim
ps--the many better informed on this list are always welcome to contradict me at will, just include your reasoning for my enlightenment if you don't mind.
Roscoe, you have just made the case, again, for the value of an international list. Very interesting and informative post! I'm not a tire expert but your reasoning makes lots of sense according to what little I know about radials.
I am told by a retired NH service manager that fluid in tires contributes to impact punctures, too. Guessing tells me this is because the fluid and wt 'hardens' them.
On the other hand, given the dilution, I would not be that concerned about explosive hazards with CH4OH or whatever methanol's chem formula is. Though I am not a pro in it, from my minor hs/univ chemistry training and experience I can tell you that any common alcohol with any significant amount of water is hard to ignite. The diesel fuel in the tractor would under most circumstances be more of a hazard in any situation I can imagine. And leaking methanol solution dissapates more quickly and with less risk for harm from a pet/animal hazard standpoint than ethylene glycol, in the event of a leak.
And, BTW, I just realized that the original poster has the same size radials as my tractor. For methanol, I believe the added wt would be about 525-550 lbs per tire if he fills to the rim, more for CaCl2 solution.
A followup for you or anyone who cares to come in--
I have a TN90F New Holland "narrow" style machine, and very rolling terrain on our farm. It has 420/70-24 rear tires with a current tread width (outside) of 72 inches, fairly small for an 80 HP tractor. I've already turned it over once, though some carelessness on my part contributed.
If stability ("hill-ability" if you will, vs traction) is my goal, would your advice still apply? Would you just dish out the wheels (I can go to about 82-84 inches), add wheel wt/front suitcase wts, or both? Any light you can shed on the whys and wherefores would also be welcome.
Thanks!
Jim
ps--the many better informed on this list are always welcome to contradict me at will, just include your reasoning for my enlightenment if you don't mind.
Roscoe
New member
Thank you JGH. First of all, width equals stability when going around the sides of hills. You can space your wheels out to a point where you can still fit through your gate ways.
Another good option, especialy if you have a narrow tractor is to fit clip on duals at the rear.
Duals will give you much more stabilty and the obvios traction advantage in one operation.
Just out of interest a narrow tyre can give you better grip than a fatter tyre in some situations, eg, if the top of the ground is soft, the narrow tyre will tend to go down and bite into the harder substance underneath whereas a wider tyre can tend to "Float" on top.
If you fit duals, always allow enough gap between them to stop the gap being bridged by mud etc.
I worked at a Local JD dealer here for a while and I attended a course at Brisbane in Australia run by John Deere and a major part of the course content was on ballasting and weight distribution. This was mostley for Flat, Broadacre farming which we have little of here (very lumpy country).
One very interesting point that came out of the course was that a correctly set up wheeled tractor will out perform a tracked machine of the same power in most situations.
With 2 wd tractors, the front weights are mainly for steering control with heavy hitch loads and/or maintaining safe steering on slopes. The advantage of suitcase weights is that you can easily add or subtract weights as required.
The amounts will depend on your situation, hitch loads and the degree of slopes that you want to work on.
We have a temperate climate here so water freezing in the tyres is not generally an issue but I have heard of engine coolant antifreeze being added to the tyre water in some of our high country areas.
Cheers
Roscoe
Another good option, especialy if you have a narrow tractor is to fit clip on duals at the rear.
Duals will give you much more stabilty and the obvios traction advantage in one operation.
Just out of interest a narrow tyre can give you better grip than a fatter tyre in some situations, eg, if the top of the ground is soft, the narrow tyre will tend to go down and bite into the harder substance underneath whereas a wider tyre can tend to "Float" on top.
If you fit duals, always allow enough gap between them to stop the gap being bridged by mud etc.
I worked at a Local JD dealer here for a while and I attended a course at Brisbane in Australia run by John Deere and a major part of the course content was on ballasting and weight distribution. This was mostley for Flat, Broadacre farming which we have little of here (very lumpy country).
One very interesting point that came out of the course was that a correctly set up wheeled tractor will out perform a tracked machine of the same power in most situations.
With 2 wd tractors, the front weights are mainly for steering control with heavy hitch loads and/or maintaining safe steering on slopes. The advantage of suitcase weights is that you can easily add or subtract weights as required.
The amounts will depend on your situation, hitch loads and the degree of slopes that you want to work on.
We have a temperate climate here so water freezing in the tyres is not generally an issue but I have heard of engine coolant antifreeze being added to the tyre water in some of our high country areas.
Cheers
Roscoe
jgh
Gold Member
- Joined
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20051011
Thanks for the nfo. Not sure if my machine is Duals-ready, though that would sure help.
Roscoe, the big shocker in what you just wrote is about wheeled vs tracked. My Bobcat saleman will blow his cool on that one! He says he cannot get enough T model skidsteers, that the tracked ones are outselling others despite higher cost, etc, due to the muddy areas traction, mainly. Landscapers, pool builders, and others love them.
I bought an A300 last year with all-wheel steer. With its turfs (also have rims with r4s) its traction is low but is great on the grass when combined with the AWS. Not sure fluid or other wt would help.
Can you elaborate on why JD says this, ie, what constitutes "properly set up", for example? I might take note that other than big stuff and excavators, JD makes no tracked machines, so....
Jim
Thanks for the nfo. Not sure if my machine is Duals-ready, though that would sure help.
Roscoe, the big shocker in what you just wrote is about wheeled vs tracked. My Bobcat saleman will blow his cool on that one! He says he cannot get enough T model skidsteers, that the tracked ones are outselling others despite higher cost, etc, due to the muddy areas traction, mainly. Landscapers, pool builders, and others love them.
I bought an A300 last year with all-wheel steer. With its turfs (also have rims with r4s) its traction is low but is great on the grass when combined with the AWS. Not sure fluid or other wt would help.
Can you elaborate on why JD says this, ie, what constitutes "properly set up", for example? I might take note that other than big stuff and excavators, JD makes no tracked machines, so....
Jim