3-Point Hitch Flat head screws on 3-point hitch

[bigcountry1009]

My Farm Pro 2420/Jinma 204 has two screws on the top of the 3-point hitch, one on each side of the housing where the lift arms go in. They are leaking fluid when the tractor is on. Is there a purpose for these? And, can I take them out, clean and put sealant on them to stop the leaking??

 

[greg_g]

I've never actually been sure what they're for, and the parts book is no help. The only SWAG I ever came up with was that they were set screws to hold the upper arms in a fixed position while it was transported via crate. Mine never leaked, so I just forgot about them after a while. But I guess if they did, I'd just (sparingly) use some pipe thread compound. Careful not to let any get into the hydraulic fluid though.

That said, they're awful high on the housing to "leak" under normal operation. Is the hydraulic vent plugged by any chance? Overfilled?

//greg//

 

[Jinma284]

Mine leaked and it was because of the vent being stopped up as Greg said. The vent is the bent pipe on top of the refill, check fluid plug. I blew it out and the leaking oil stopped.

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

My Farm Pro 2420/Jinma 204 has two screws on the top of the 3-point hitch, one on each side of the housing where the lift arms go in. They are leaking fluid when the tractor is on. Is there a purpose for these? And, can I take them out, clean and put sealant on them to stop the leaking??

If it is the two screws I think you are talking about ??

There purpose is to hold the lift arm bushings in place.

To confirm my thought... remove the screw and it should have a tip/point on the end of it.

They are shown in the parts book I have.

If oil is coming out around those screws .... pressure is building inside the lift box or it may be over filled.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[thingy]

Yeah mine did/does leak a tiny bit there to,,mine were just loose,piss poor design,,,still weeps slightly when it gets hot,,,,my vent was not plugged and hydro was not overfull,,,just tighten them real good,,and if thats the only leak you got,man you be doing good! thingy

 

[bigcountry1009]

Good deal, I'll put wrap em with some thread tape and put the He-man torque on em, see what happens.

 

[thingy]

Be real carefull with that teflon tape on hydro stuff,piece gets in it might plug up something,,maybe that loctight stuff might be better,let it about half dry maybe? thingy

 

[greg_g]

Good deal, I'll put wrap em with some thread tape and put the He-man torque on em, see what happens.

I specifically identified pipe thread compound as opposed to teflon tape. And note too that I cautioned about getting any into the hydraulic fluid. Too many folks have found tape clogging chokepoints in their hydraulic and lubrication systems. Don't be tempted to use anything that will sieze/freeze/lock the threads either. Soon as you do, there'll come a day when you actually want to take them out for some legitimate reason.

//greg//

 

[thingy]

You can break that lock tight stuff loose,,probably won't work anyways with all the oil,,all he's gotta do is put a little man power with a screw driver anyways,,,and check them every now and than,like I said,piss poor design,,but no big deal,,mines been oozing for 4 years now,,,thingy

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

From post #4

If it is just weeping hyd oil and keeping it damp ??/ I would not be concerned.

The ends of thoses scews when tighten all the way down will rub the lift shaft.

I recommend to run the screw down and back off 1/4 turn.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[thingy]

Ron,your of course right in theory,,but if I backed mine off 1/4 turn it would go from a barely noticable wetness,,to more wetness,,,,thats why I tightened them down 3-4 years ago as tight as I could,,every thing still has worked fine,[maybe there's a groove in something by now?],but like I said,piss poor design,,,plus if you back them off they would just keep backing off,[thats the piss poor design part by the way],,thingy

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

thingy, I understand what you are saying.

By tightening the screw all the way down will cause the tip of the screw to rub the lift shaft. The lift shaft is harden steel and probably will just rub the point of the screw down some. If it does scratch the shaft then it would scratch the bushing that it holds in place.

Most of what I have seen is that the screw hole /threads are rusted/rusty ...... have to work with it to get the screw to break loose and come out of rusty threads from filling up with water.

When going back together I chase the threads...... clean with brake clean and air blow ....... run screw down while twisting the shaft and backed off 1/4 .... then filled the hole with silicone to keep the water out and to hold the screw from turning........ and it would be easy to pick out if it ever had to be gone back into.

The screw just keeps the bushing from turning and sliding sideways.

With it leaking oil out from around the screw ...... the oil has to go through the bushing before it gets to the screw/hole.

yea, if it is making it more than just damp..... I would do something also.

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[thingy]

I don't know Ron,,I always tighten up things to much,[not a mecanic],,it was just damp if I remember right,,when it got hot,[if I remember right again],,but it stoped after I put the man torgue on it,,and three point still worked the same,,,
Do you arrange delivery to southern w.va. if I bought a new tractor off you?,,thingy

 

[Ranch_Hand_Supp]

Thingy, it will probably be just fine. The only way to tell would be to remove the shaft and inspect. ...... not worth it at this time, my opinion.

The lift is to strong to ever be effected by the screws being locked down.

I can /do arrange deliverly all over. ...

Ronald
Ranch Hand Supply

 

[nt254]

I have a year 2000 nortrac 254 with about 600 hours. The lift system is starting to leak a little oil around where the right side lift arm (looking at the tractor from behind) goes into the lift housing. I notice that when I tighten the set screw on the top the oil just about stops leaking. My question is what is causing it to leak and how do I fix it. (It is Not leaking enough right now to fix but I would like to know in advance what I have to do to fix the problem.)
Thanks,
Nt254

 

[thingy]

NT,I got a nt 254 too,with about 570 hours,we got something in comman than don't we,,,,you talking about the leak is around the arm joint it self,,wonder why tightening the set screw would stop a leak someplace else? Probably a seal of some kind there,shouldn't be a hard fix.Maybe it just pushed it over a little? Hows your tractor running,,you did know we got more hours on ours than 90 percent of the chinese tractor owners on these boards?,,Mine has never failed to start and never broke down,I have never adjusted clutch,,,did the valve/head bolt thing about 3 years ago or so,,really for no reason also,,,,never had a leak in a tire even,,,still got original raditiator hoses,,have put new battery,new alternator belt,new little rad. bypass hose,,never blown a fuse either,,it does have a mystery oil leak out of bell housing weep hole,been dripping at various degrees for about 4 years now,,never have to add any,it is not getting on clutch,pretty sure its trans oil,,,,,how old is yours,got mine about 4 1/2 years ago,,,,thingy

 

[nt254]

Hello,
Yes, the oil leaks where the shaft that attaches to the lift arm comes out of the lift assembly housing. When I tighten the small set screw on top, the oil stops leaking. My tractor has not had many problems. I got it in 2001. I have replaced the radiator hoses, 2 glow plugs, and I change the engine oil and filter regularly. I use it for mowing, plowing, and grading. I plan on getting a dirt scoop for the 3-point hitch this summer. (I do not know if I should get a 24" scoop or a 30") I do not have a loader. I have heard of people cracking the bell housing with a loader so I decided not to put one on this tractor.

 

[thingy]

NT,well we just like lost cousins than,,,yeah loader,,I don't have one either,but they probably all right as long as you don't use it like a dozer,,think the breaking in half stuff is not founded,,clutch is what suffers...Dirt scoop,,don't know about them,,never did figure they would work very good though,,you can do alot with a heavy back blade that moves three ways though,,box blade,[don't have one],would probably be a second choice if you needed to move a little dirt?? The oil leak,,how bads it leaking?,,,gotta be a seal in the area its leaking,which would mean not a big job,,get ahold of parts supplyers and ask them,tommy,ranchhand,,,hope yours keeps at it for another 600 hours without a beat,,,thingy

 

[Soundguy]

I moved alot of dirt with a KK 30" dirt scoop on a yanmar 1700 tractor.. which is probably a hair smaller than your jinma 254. My 8n also totes that dirt scoop and does just fine. The 8n is technically a couple more hp than the jinma.. but it's 55 years old too.. so... I think you will do fine with a 30".. as long as the front end isn't too light. if it is.. ballast it..

On your leak.. is your looped over case vent plugged?

Soundguy

Hello,
Yes, the oil leaks where the shaft that attaches to the lift arm comes out of the lift assembly housing. When I tighten the small set screw on top, the oil stops leaking. My tractor has not had many problems. I got it in 2001. I have replaced the radiator hoses, 2 glow plugs, and I change the engine oil and filter regularly. I use it for mowing, plowing, and grading. I plan on getting a dirt scoop for the 3-point hitch this summer. (I do not know if I should get a 24" scoop or a 30") I do not have a loader. I have heard of people cracking the bell housing with a loader so I decided not to put one on this tractor.

 

[nt254]

I will check the vent pipe to see if it may be plugged. It does not leak a lot but I would like to be prepared to fix the problem once it does leak more. I do notice that it leaks more and the set screw on top of the lift housing comes loose more often when I have the back blade/grader blade on the tractor. As for the dirt scoop, I would like a 30" scoop but I believe that the front end may be too light once the scoop is loaded. Also the lift arms on this tractor are not very big so I do not know how well they would handle the bigger scoop. Thanks to everyone for the replys.