Flail mower adjustment

[leonz]

Hello Ricn,

If possible please ask them to provide you with full written information about the three control valves as somebody wearing orange is blowing smoke here.

There is the possibility that the common relief valve pressure for all three valves is set to low BUT they could should have told you that up front when all this started.


OK,

1. so you have one pair of remotes for the differential cylinder/slide cylinder

2. the second pair of remotes is for the top and tilt circuit

Where is the third remote in all this? IF you have 3 separate pairs of remotes with a total of 6 steel hydraulic lines plus
the hydraulic circuit for the lower link arms which is usually the outer hydraulic valve handle on the console making a total of four hydraulic circuits.


The lower link arms hydraulic circuit was supplied with the mule when you bought it and is fed from the oil sump of the mule.

I just hate it when a simple fix like checking the common relief valve pressure requires them to remove your mule from the property--not needed.........

If they did not set the relief valve spring pressure high enough its entirely possible that the weight of the mower is forcing the relief valve cartridge spool open and draining oil back into the tank.

If they have to remove the seat and all the extraneous mounting plates to access the steel lines and the control valve spools and the common relief valve I could see them taking it but they should have told you what they were going to do to begin with rather than just saying we want it, we want to take a look at it, which tells me they don't know what is going on with it period.

I just want you to have a mule that works. Please PM me when you know more as it does not sound like its going to be a simple fix as you would have trouble with the entire hydraulic system if the relief valve was set to low.

Its entirely possible that a piece of dirt or metal shavings is stuck in the control valve which would affect the circuit and allow it to bleed back to the sump.

 

[Ricn]

Maybe can explain better, not real smart about hydraulics. When wanting rear remotes, TBN guys suggested getting all three because, it is cheaper now than later so, I went to my dealer, the third one around here, and who was the only dealer who seemed to know about adding them to my L2501. They ordered the factory parts kits consisting of valves, hoses, fittings, and two cylinders etc. then got my tractor to install everything. When retuning the tractor it now has three sets or, six quick disconnects all mounted rather nicely behind the seat and just to the right. Also has three new levers in the slot provided right side of the seat. Two sets of remotes (four hoses) were hose fitted down to the two cylinders for T and T with the third set capped and where I plugged in the mower cylinder hoses that, after some issue finding quick disconnects that fit Kubota's factory kit fittings because, my mowers fittings were different. Keep in mind were dealing with AMERICAN,CHINESE AND JAPANESE fittings! that are all different for some reason...When having bleed-off issues I went to the dealer who said, the valve or valves maybe, were set to low but he also was sort of pissy about it telling me its common but I persisted because, mine bleeds off in about 10 min or less and is a real pain when lifting or lowering as much as I need to. He then said they would pick it up and it look over so, I am waiting for the truck. To address your second to last paragraph: my three point works fine, no bleed off, as does the top cylinder, no bleed off there or, the mower cylinder either, only the tilt cylinder bleeds down...With Warrantee in the mix here for both my tractor and the remotes, sort of have to let the dealer try and do something first..
Thanks TBN!

Ricn

 

[aczlan]

What he saying is to switch the hoses between the valve that you currently use for the top link and the valve you currently use for the side links to see if the problem follows the cylinder or the valve.

Aaron Z

 

[Ricn]

I see now. Yep, I should have thought of that: the Dealer has my tractor now so will have wait. Tnx TBN!

Ricn

 

[ovrszd]

To reinforce my claim that hydraulics simply sometimes leak, here's a pic of a new JD tractor and new 20ft JD brush cutter. We are looking at $100K of new equipment here. Notice anything?

 

[Fallon]

I've never heard of this "internal valve adjustment" that you refer to.

I want to call "BS" but will wait for the hydraulic experts to chime in....... :confused3:

I 2nd the BS call. There is no internal adjustment I know of. Also a valve should hold a full 2,500psi without leaking significantly (all hydraulics leak, but just very slowly). It doesn't matter what is at the other end either the valve leaks a lot or it doesn't.

The loader on my old L3200 & new L4060 don't move appreciably in a week. The TnT & good Butcher valves from FitRite on the L3200 would leak down over several days.

Personally I don't think anything worse than an inch an hour or 2 is acceptable. I have a hunch the rear valves on my L4060 might not pass that threshold when my TnT cylinders get here. The dealer provided me with the Kubota leakdown spec when I was dealing with the crap cylinders they were selling (since returned). I'll be measuring cylinder leakdown connected & unconnected then comparing it to the Kubota spec. I think the spec was a few tablespoons an hour or something.

Check valves are just a bandaid for bad valves. I won't use them as they break float, which is super useful

 

[Ricn]

OVRSZD - So I see rear implements with one side lower? Lots going on in the photo. Nice tractor BTW - Fallon- if adjustment is BS then my dealer is not very knowledgeable. Are you saying then the valve itself is defective? and the Kubota cylinders are crap to begin with? What do you mean by break float? getting in over my head with all this - maybe.

Ricn

 

[ovrszd]

OVRSZD - So I see rear implements with one side lower? Lots going on in the photo. Nice tractor BTW - Fallon- if adjustment is BS then my dealer is not very knowledgeable. Are you saying then the valve itself is defective? and the Kubota cylinders are crap to begin with? What do you mean by break float? getting in over my head with all this - maybe.

Ricn

The operator didn't park the tractor with one wing partially folded. The rear remote that controls the wing fold is leaking off. And that's on a $75K new tractor. See it often.

 

[Ricn]

So how long does it take to leak down and are you planning some sort of fix?

Ricn

 

[Fallon]

OVRSZD - So I see rear implements with one side lower? Lots going on in the photo. Nice tractor BTW - Fallon- if adjustment is BS then my dealer is not very knowledgeable. Are you saying then the valve itself is defective? and the Kubota cylinders are crap to begin with? What do you mean by break float? getting in over my head with all this - maybe.

Ricn

Either stupid, blowing smoke or there is something really wired about those valves.

The cylinders that my dealer tried installing on my machine were not OEM Kubota. Some other 3rd party crap that was horribly designed (rod was 8" longer than the cylinder) and 2 of the 3 leaked bad. From what I can see all decent & many poor TnT cylinders take ages to get. Never actually seen an OEM Kubota TnT setup.

When you push your loader joystick all the way forward it goes into float. Where the hydraulics move freely & it won't exert any more pressure on the ground than the weight of the loader. Hydraulic fluid can move freely in & out of both ends of the cylinder. A check valve stops all fluid movement in & out of a cylinder unless the pressure on one port passes a certain high threshold. That stops float from working.

I'm a huge fan of float on my toplink. Whenever I'm mowing it's in float so the mower can get max articulation without binding because of the toplink. Also handy for letting impliments & the 3pt settle when trying to unhitch impliments.