Fixing radiator

[Birch Hill Farm]

I have an old international 444 tractor with a brass radiator. It is leaking along 3" of the seam between the top and bottom parts of the reservoir tank. There is no direct fit replacement radiator available for this tractor so, the only option is to fix this one or modify a radiator from a close model to the 444. I was thinking of cleaning up the seam and soldering it with regular plumbing solder or use some of the sticks of silver solder that we use in A/C systems. Will this work? what kind of solder should I use?
here is the seam in question:

 

[Bigfoot62]

I'm not an expert on radiators or soldering. I carry mine to a pro.
Had the same thing happen with the bottom tank. I watched the guy as he completely removed the tank from the core, cleaned the entire joint and then re-soldered.
He said that you can't just patch a crack like that. You need to do the whole seam.

 

[Birch Hill Farm]

Makes sense, I assume I could heat up the joint to separate the two parts?

 

[Bigfoot62]

Makes sense, I assume I could heat up the joint to separate the two parts?

That's what he did. I think, though, you have to be careful not to apply too much heat. You don't want to melt the solder that holds the core together.

 

[Birch Hill Farm]

Thanks for the reply! Any thoughts on what kind of solder would be best?

 

[Steave]

I agree with Bigfoot62.

I have lucked up and temporarily repaired a leak but most of the time only created more.

Maybe you could try liquid solder in a tube. I usually don't have much use for stuff like that and never used it on a radiator but might be worth a try. If by any chance it did hold sure would save you a lota work.

 

[Bigfoot62]

Thanks for the reply! Any thoughts on what kind of solder would be best?

Don't know for sure. IIRC, he used a long "stick" of solder, so I'm guessing silver solder. :confused3:
You might want to post that question on the welding forum.

 

[Birch Hill Farm]

Thanks for the reply, I tried posting in the welding forum but, never got a response.

 

[cyrush]

The radiator when manufactured would be soldered with the ordinary lead/tin variety.Do not use silver solder as this needs a higher temp to melt and you stand a good chance of loosening the core joints with the heat transfer.
Best lob would be to pay the extra and get a professional repairer to do it for you ???

 

[Birch Hill Farm]

I just hate pay someone to do a job that I could probably do my self.... Good thought on the silver solder an 1800deg melting point might be too much for the old radiator.

 

[Ken]

I just hate pay someone to do a job that I could probably do my self.... Good thought on the silver solder an 1800deg melting point might be too much for the old radiator.

A radiator repair shop can clean and resolder the top on then pressure test to make sure that radiator doesan't leak looks like the engine was over hot and pressure forced the seperation if so needs cleaning anyways. A small repair charge to protect and engine worth the money.
ken

 

[dieselscout80]

I had my IH 424 radiator fixed at a radiator shop for about $100 this summer. I've done a couple small radiator fixes before like a loose hose connector, but the 424/444 radiator has 3 or 4 rows of tubes that are stagger and they would be a nightmare to fix if you got core to hot trying to fix the seam. Radiator repair require quick heat to only heat the area being worked on or the heat spreads and unsolders other joints.

 

[Birch Hill Farm]

Update on the radiator, There ended being about 5 leaks, every time I would get one fix and pressure test there would be a new leak some where else. The core is also leaking in several spots which is only now showing up after fixing the big leaks, the big leaks made it impossible to find the small ones. I called a radiator shop recommended by a tractor parts store and they said it will cost over $450 to re-core and fix my old radiator. They do not make a new one for the 444 so I decided to order a new radiator for the model 140 that is the same size and has the inlets and outlets in the same place. I will probably have to fab up the mounting brackets to make it fit but, I would rather do that then take a chance spending the same amount of money on repairing and old radiator.

 

[Gary Fowler]

You would likely be better off using your brass tank top and bottom and having the radiator shop put in a new core. The new radiator is likely plastic top and bottom just like all the cars and trucks now. Check the construction on the "new" radiator before plunging in and getting a crappy new radiator when for the same money or less you can get a good solid brass one. It will be just like new when finished because all the use is the top and bottom of your radiator. I had this done when my JD 332 garden tractor radiator started leaking. It was about $200 less than a new one from JD and I have a solid metal one not plastic.

 

[RLDSL]

If its to the point of leaking, you can just about bet that its due for a good cleaning too. Best off just taking it to a good rad shop and having it rodded or boiled out and then have them re seal it then fully pressure tested, then you wont have to worry about the thing coming apart on you for a good long time