First weld-on grab hook

[Mark @ Everlast]

SA,
Yes, exactly. It works off a formula preprogrammed into it, sort of a sliding scale that changes as conditions changes.

The hot start is variable, depending upon the 6010 setting or the "regular" setting. Honestly, I forgot exactly how many amps are increased at start, but the 6010 is a higher voltage tap so it behaves differently. To clarify, It isn't adjustable, but it is automatically variable according to current settings.

Its a great little machine, that can definitely change peoples minds about inverter technology. It delivers a smooth constant arc with little spatter in both settings. We have looked at other companies inverters and found ours is superior over basic inverter stick units in many ways. For the size and weight it has, it is hard to believe the little welder keeps up nicely with 200 amp engine drives and large transformer machines.

 

[Shield Arc]

Mark I' am as old school as it gets! 2-shorthoods, 2-Red Faces, 1-Black Face. But I'm sold on inverters. That Dynasty 300 is amazing!
I looked at the ArcMaster 185 just for the Hot Start, but their price set me back somewhat. Especially for a machine I don't really need, wait a minute I don't need any of these machines I'm retired!:laughing:
I'm going to file that Power Arc 200 in the back of my mind.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Here's link to me doing a video with it. I am a little rusty on open root, but you get a very clear idea of its performance.
YouTube - everlastgenerator's Channel
It should cue up to that video first.

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh man I wish you wouldn't have posted the link to that video! Very impressive!:thumbsup:
Trouble is I don't know if it's you or the machine.

On Everlast's website they say this Power Arc 200 sells for $349.99 or make offer, is this a mistake?

 

[jcliburn]

I would clean up the welds on your hooks and plates then do a 7018 hot pass over the welds you have.

Since I had the day off work, I decided to buy and test drive some 3/32" 7018 AC rods on my Everlast PowerArc 160 DC welder. (The store didn't have any non-AC 7018s.) Lots and lots of weld, grind off, weld, grind off, ad infinitum on some scrap. It was a good day.

I experienced some pinholes, which I attributed to long arc. The pinholes were inconsistent along a continuous bead; sometimes there, sometimes not, so I don't think the rods were hydrated. (Is that the right word?) It was more likely caused by my unskilled technique, letting the arc get a little long as I laid the bead.

New rods were sometimes a bit reluctant to start, but restarts were super easy. They seemed to perform best at 95 amps on the 1/4" scrap I was using.

All in all, I was really pleased with their performance. I didn't get an unbroken stack of dimes appearance like ol' Shield Arc gets, but it sure looked better than the jumble of rocks I'm accustomed to producing.

Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Shield Arc]

jcliburn 7018 isn't suppose to look like the first picture I posted.

This is fairly close to what 7018 is suppose to look like.

7018 on 2-inch pipe.

 

[jcliburn]

jcliburn 7018 isn't suppose to look like the first picture I posted.

This is fairly close to what 7018 is suppose to look like.

7018 on 2-inch pipe.

Man, that's some fine looking work. And with gold, too! :laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

Gold?!

 

[jcliburn]

The photo has a golden cast to it on my MacBook Air monitor. Kinda looks like gold pipe and gold weld. I know it isn't, but it looks that way. Just trying to be funny. I'll stop now.

 

[gauthier]

That top edge is not perfectly even and straight:laughing:

Yeah it is goldish..

 

[Shield Arc]

Oh I see!:laughing:

I'm a better welder than photographer.

I just switched over to Linux Mint, the colors are different than windows.

 

[Shield Arc]

That top edge is not perfectly even and straight:laughing:

You're right, not much of a pipe welder.

Now lets see some of your 6-G 2-inch pipe welds.

 

[Chilly807]

Mine looks much the same.. the monitor colour that is. I use 7018 for much of my stick welding, primarily because of the price. I've got some 3/32 and 1/8 that were tossed, prematurely in my opinion. As far as the moisture absorbing issue, I don't have problems with that. More on that later.

You might like 7014 as well, much easier lighting than the 7018, every bit as smooth or better, and less issues with moisture absorbing.
They're not a low-hydrogen rod, so be careful welding steel that is prone to hydrogen embrittlement.

I run my 7018 3/32 at about 80-90 amps DC. The 1/8 gets 110-120 amps DC with good results. I find they re-light much better when they're still hot from the last pass.

Now, as to re-conditioning "damp" rods... I looked at Air Liquide's website, they have a page that spells out how to store and re-condition their rods, I suspect most manufacturers are like that.

The 7018 calls for storage at 300 degrees F once open, IIRC. To dry them, 600-700 degrees for 1 hour. Since my oven won't go to 600 degrees, and my wife would have a conniption anyway, I took an old toaster oven and modified it. The thermostat has been "enhanced" to allow it to go that high, and the thermal fuse was removed. I use an oven thermometer to be sure where I am heat-wise.

Not the safest piece of equipment I own, but if used properly it's fine. I only bake rods when I'm nearby, and it gets done outdoors away from anything flammable.

Once they're dry and cool, they go in vacuum sealed bags of about 15 rods each for storage.

Sean

 

[gauthier]

Well,I'm glad you own up to it.....did I ever tell you about the old pipeliner trying to light a tig torch?

 

[gauthier]

Use a 6010 type rod and you won't have to worry about burning stuff down with your modified toaster oven:laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

did I ever tell you about the old pipeliner trying to light a tig torch?

Your not trying to change the subject are you?

I love looking at an experts pipe welds, postem up!

 

[gauthier]

I could probably find you a picture of my rabbit beagle,but that would be too much trouble,so,,,,hold your breath,,,and quit making those nasty uneven welds look gold.:laughing:

 

[Shield Arc]

quit making those nasty uneven welds.:laughing:

You know that old saying?
Those who can, do, those who can't, throw stones. Or something like that.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Here's something useful for the poster:

7018's can pinhole if they aren't warm and properly stored. Starting is easier too if that rod is hot. But IF a 7018 isn't in a sealed can like a pringles potato chip or a old can of quaker state, it is all wet...In a box, plastic or paper, a 7018 has moisture in it. Yes...I know the next statement, or question: If that's true how come they sell 'em that way??? Answer: Because they can, and because it means $$$$ for their backpockets. The rods can be used, don't get me wrong, but they do not have their low hydrogen status any longer and could crack underbead in the right situation.

Of course, too long of an arc can do it too.

IF the 7018's are hard restarting, reach up and break the fingernail off the tip of the rod so the bare metal makes direct contact with the metal in the rod. If the are hard STARTING, flip it over to the 6010 port.

 

[Shield Arc]

reach up and break the fingernail off the tip of the rod so the bare metal makes direct contact with the metal in the rod.

If by chance you're doing code work, or important work, ah it's a good idea for any kind of welding. Strike your arc about 3/4-inch in front of your stop, and drag back into the stop. This will help in getting the rod closer to operating temperature before you start welding.